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peterbkk

Panasonic GH4 Settings for Underwater

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Setting up a GH4 for Diving


To a lot of you who’ve been shooting video with DSLRs for some time, the settings on the GH4 might be a bit “ho hum”. But, for me, shooting camcorders for the last 10 years, it’s been a sea-change. I spent a lot of time studying the settings and came up with something that works for me. I thought that I’d share it.


Firstly, I have to say that I prefer a “natural” look; I like my finished video to look as close as possible to what my eyes saw underwater. So that "natural look" bias is in my settings. I don't WB to white or add a lot of red. You can adjust to your own tastes.


Secondly, when I am underwater, I want to focus as much of my attention on the “story” and the “subjects”. But I rarely use an “auto-everything” approach as that does not work well in many situations. But, I do like to quickly get to as close to the "optimal look" without too much fiddling and adjustments (while the whale shark swims away).


So, I have found it very useful to leverage the custom setting feature in the GH4. It works really well with this camera. After a lot of research and testing, once I had an idea of what I needed, here is the process that I used:


  1. Set all the “in menu” settings (my preferred settings are below)
  2. Set the camera controls to your most “usual” setting
  3. Set the WB presets (more on how to do this below)
  4. Save this to C1 (in my case, C1 is full manual)
  5. Without changing the menu settings from C1, change the camera settings to your second most “usual” settings
  6. Save this to C2 (in my case, C1 is shutter of 1/50 with AFL/AEL for focus and exposure)
  7. Change to your third most “usual” settings.
  8. Save this to C3-1 (in my case I use “shutter 1/50; auto-everything-else”)
  9. (you could do two more settings, C3-2 and C3-3, but I don’t use these because they are not so quick to access)


GH4 "In Menu” Settings



Tool Menu:


Personal choice but set date, time and system frequency first, I use 24.00Hz



Motion Picture (set dial to motion picture):



Cine D (flat - good for grading)

Contrast 0 (neutral)


Sharpness -5 (none)

Noise Reduction -5 (none)

Saturation 0 (neutral)

Hue 0 (neutral)

Rec Format Mov (less compression)


Rec Quality C4K 100M 24P (as many pixels as possible)

AFS/AFF: AFS (half-press focus)

Continuous Auto Focus Off

Highlight/Shadow: Flat diagonal line

i.Dynamic Off (don’t want it to mess with the CineD profile)

i.Resolution Standard (does some selective sharpening)

Master pedestal 0 (neutral)

Luminance level 0-255 (full range - can limit later in editing)

Synchro Scan Off (used for shooting TVs and monitors)

Ex Tele Conv Off

Digital Zoom Off (just crops the image)

Time Code Off


HDMI Rec Output 10bit 422 (eady for the Shogun)

Info Display Off (Shogun has its own)

4K Down Convert Off (No thank you)


Sound output Realtime (only relevant for monitoring sound with headphones)

Silent operation On (tries to keep zooming quiet)

Mic Level 0db

Mic Limiter Off (no auto sound gain)

SS / Gain Operation SEC/ISO

Color Bars SMPTE


Custom Settings Menu:


Cust Set Mem - here is where the Custom setting (1, 2, and 3) are saved.

Silent Mode On (no lights or noises inside the housing)

AFL / AEL Lock - Off for Manual custom setting, Both on for other two settings

AFL / AEL Lock Hold - On (locks it until you unlock it with another press)

Shutter AF On

Half Press Release Off (not good inside a housing)

Quick AF Off (wastes battery)

Eye sensor Off (does not function inside a housing)

Pinpoint AF Time - Mid (does not seem to matter)

Direct Focus Area Off

Focus / Release Priority - Release (not relevant to video)

AF+MF On (allows fine manual adjustments of focus)

MF Assist On (the lens barrel) -(expands the manual focus part of the monitor)

MF Guide Off (personal choice)

Peaking Off (personal choice)

Histogram on (and moved to bottom-left corner)

Guideline - Grid On (personal choice)

Center Marker Off (don’t need a grid and a marker)

Highlight Off (Histogram is better)

Zebra 1 Off Zebra 2 Off (Histogram is better)

Monochrome Live View Off (want to see the colour)

Constant Preview On (not relevant to video)

Expo meter On (for manual exposure guide)

LVF Disp Style - text over image (larger image in VF)

Monitor Disp Style - text over image (larger image in monitor)

Monitor Info Diaplay On - see the settings

Video Priority Display On (gives more data for video shooters)

Fn Button Set - I changed Fn1 to Auto Focus On but don’t use it - still finding a use for Fn1

Q.Menu - no changes

Dial Set - no changes

Video Button On (but I always use the shutter button anyway)

Eye Sensor - High / Mon (don’t use it - always use Monitor)

Touch Settings - all Off - can’t access them in a housing

Touch Scroll L - irrelevant as settings are Off

Menu Guide Off

Shoot w/o lens On - doesn’t matter either way



My GH4 Underwater WB Presets:


WB1: Light Blue

WB2: Mid Blue

WB3: Light Green

WB4: Mid Green

Kelvin: 6500K


How to do the WB preset? Print 4 A4 sheets of paper filled with the four colours above. (I have attached my pdf files). Set the camera to C1 to load up your custom settings. Place the first A4 sheet (light blue) in a natural light (sunlight - not artificial light as this would introduce a different colour cast). Open up the WB set function for WB1, point the camera so the colour fills the image and set it. Do the same for the other 3 papers into WB2, WB3, and WB4. Go to the Custom Settings menu and “save” (overwrite) the C1 settings. Now the WB presets are locked into the camera. You can change the WB settings underwater but you can always get back to the presets by simply moving the mode dial. Do the same for C2 and C3.


Then, when you are diving, use:


AWB: for near the surface and when video lights dominate (cave / night)

Kelvin 6500K for 5 meters down to 12 meters

WB1 for 10 meters to 20 meters (in tropical blue water)

WB2 for below 15 to 20 meters (in tropical blue water)


WB3 for 10 meters to 20 meters (in green water)

WB3 for below 15 to 20 meters (in green water)



The depths mentioned above overlap because you need to make a judgement call, depending on the conditions.



My GH4 “Usual” Camera Settings, saved in Custom 1, Custom 2 and Custom 3, respectively.


  1. M; ISO 200; f2.8; 1/50s; AFS, centre-area focus - this setting is for when I really want full control over everything, even using manual focus if necessary; great when you have time to get a shot really right
  2. S; ISO 200; 1/50s; AFS, centre-area focus - this setting is for when the aperture is not so important and I want to quickly do an AFL / AEL lock before shooting than have the camera hold those settings, quicker than Manual but fast enough for most situations
  3. S; ISO Auto; AFC, multi-zone focus; multi-zone exposure; +/- set to minus one notch - this setting is for when something happens fast. e.g. a big creature swims past, and you don’t have time to think - flip the mode dial to C3 and let the camera do its best to figure it out. Shutter is set to 1/50. Camera will adjust Aperture and ISO to get a good exposure. +/- reduced to avoid the camera trying to make the image too bright.


Might all look a bit complicated, but, if you set this all up once, you don’t need to do it again unless you want to make some adjustments.


Underwater, it is very simple:


Use C1 if you want manual control

Use C2 if you want to use a focus lock and exposure lock (NA-GH4 has a handy lever for this)

Use C3 if you want the camera to do everything for you


Then depending on your depth and the conditions, flip the WB setting quickly between AWB, Manual, WB1, and WB2. (or WB3 and WB4, if the water is green)


The other upside of this C1, C2, C3 approach is that, if you have been fiddling with any settings, a quick flip of the mode dial gets you back to a known state.


I hope that this is helpful.


Regards

Peter

Light Green MWB Preset.pdf

Light Blue MWB Preset.pdf

Mid Green MWB Preset.pdf

Mid Blue MWB Preset.pdf

Edited by peterbkk
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U don't find bringing a grey/white balance card with u and do manual balancing every once in a while? Seems like doing it above water wouldn't produce great colors

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I've only tried the white balance card approach a couple times but never like it. I've always performed a manual white balance on or near the scene I'm shooting. The GH4 handles this well. Here's an article I wrote on some of my favorite GH4 settings:

http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/panasonic-gh4-underwater-video-settings

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I've only tried the white balance card approach a couple times but never like it. I've always performed a manual white balance on or near the scene I'm shooting. The GH4 handles this well. Here's an article I wrote on some of my favorite GH4 settings:

http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/panasonic-gh4-underwater-video-settings

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Manual white balance in post or in camera?

 

Sent from my E5603 using Tapatalk

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Both. In camera I MWB often to keep me close. I probably end up adjusting about 5-10% of my shots in post for color (most adjustments are for shadows/highlights).

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Is it not hard to tell in which range you need to get for good colors? I just feel like using a slate would be much simpler to get close enough (although I haven't tried either methods)

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Doing manual focus with the GH4 and relying on the peaking function I'm disappointed in the hit and miss rate of the usable material I manged to get in focus.

 

Suggestions?

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EspenB, look into "Backbutton" focus. I shoot with Panasonic LX100, the camera is set to Manual focus but just turn one of the Fn button to initial focus. Before shooting, just press the Fn button to get initial focus, and focus peaking will still exist and you can start recording.

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Is it not hard to tell in which range you need to get for good colors? I just feel like using a slate would be much simpler to get close enough (although I haven't tried either methods)

 

The problem with setting WB with a grey card or slate is that the GH4 pushes the blues toward purple/magenta. I've never had any success setting WB with a card. Actually the best I get setting WB at depth is on my hand or a light brown sand (something with a little yellow in it)

 

I'm going to try the pre-set WB with the colored sheets next time. Also, I have the new GH5 which has better color science. As soon as Nauticam releases the housing (I have it on pre-order) I'll see it that's true or not :)

Edited by kmhanson

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I see, will be taking my gh4 into the water for the first time in 2 weeks, I've got a slate but I guess I'll experiment a little. The range to your wb subject also impacts the result tho. Let us know how the gh5 does tho :)

 

Sent from my E5603 using Tapatalk

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The problem with setting WB with a grey card or slate is that the GH4 pushes the blues toward purple/magenta. I've never had any success setting WB with a card. Actually the best I get setting WB at depth is on my hand or a light brown sand (something with a little yellow in it)

 

I'm going to try the pre-set WB with the colored sheets next time. Also, I have the new GH5 which has better color science. As soon as Nauticam releases the housing (I have it on pre-order) I'll see it that's true or not :)

How did the WB on the GH5 work out for you? Do the colored sheets work well?? Just picked up a GH5 and looking at the best options available....thanks!

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Hi guys,

 

Which type of SD cards are you using for 4K?

 

Thank you in advance

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In the attached pic, the one on the left is in my underwater GH4 until it's full, then I put the older one in the middle in. The one on the right is in my topside GH4. Had no problems with any of them.

post-3234-0-35889100-1505638523_thumb.jpg

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Hi, iget my GH4-first time photos under water now i try to go in the movie world under water-will see-nice to see here some guys like the same

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Hi Guys,

 

Is there someone who experimented with V-Log underwater?

 

Pro & cons?

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I was really excited by VLOG and got the upgrade,the atomos recorder for 10bit, paid for the LeemingLUT to get better colours etc etc

 

Perhaps (no - I know...) I'm not skilled enough, but I reverted back to using the scenery profile as the work involved in getting the best from it, probably isn't aimed at underwater and I got frustrated with having to use LUTs to get it back to Rec709 and really couldn't see the difference, that justified all that work. But again, probably it was in the wrong hands.

 

Also note, that there was some issues with banding and smearing if recording internally due to the 100Mb data rate.

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Hi Guys,

 

Is there someone who experimented with V-Log underwater?

 

I didn't get around doing that on my last trip. I mostly used Cine-D, wich I quite like. But I'm planning to play with VLOG and HLG when I'm off to Triton Bay later this week. I also want to fiddle in post with Wide Gamut 2020 HDR as Santa Clause got me a shiny new 4K HDR OLED TV, so that gives me some motivation to see if I can create fitting content :-)

Edited by bubffm

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Hi Guys,

 

Is there someone who experimented with V-Log underwater?

 

Pro & cons?

Hello DB

Actually i did film in v log underwater but you cant count it as a normal dive...it was a night filming and i had to use the pana 12 35 for the 2.8 aperture because of low lightning situation....i dont think it will answer your question but it is still v log underwater....and as i told being so lazy on the surface i havent grade it. so i dont know the results...but i have been told that they were ok...

if you want to try you can download the footage from https://wetransfer.com/downloads/f6a0b5a1e3851df5fec61c982b2fab1920180110113230/6d8a66568ae0e5abbda264d8bbe54d7f20180110113230/5c8a6b regards

Lutfu

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Thanks Peterbkk and Scubabob for explaining your settings with the GH4.

I come from photo (www.joergblessing.com) and switched to the GH4 to learn video as well.

I read up as much as I found online, but am still struggling with producing good footage.

 

Would be supernice if anyone could help with a few questions:

 

  • Peterbkk states f2.8 as starting point for shooting in M mode. I learned that with video I should double framerate to get my shutter speed (trying 30p and 60p for now). So I can only adjust ISO and Aperture, right? On photo I start off for wide-angle on f8 to get enough depth of field. My 7-14mm has only f4 but isn't that difficult to get things in focus. especially with a lens at f2.8 ???
  • To keep shutter speed/framerate ratio, isn't it useful to use shutter angle (set to180°) instead of shutter speed, so the ratio always sticks. (Under "SS / Gain Operation" in video menu) even when changing framerate??
  • Which metering mode works good for video underwater? Center weighted? Of course this only relevant when we use S or A video mode.
  • ​I use backbutton focus as described by Scubabob quite happily in my Nauticam housing as I´m used to it for photo. Is it generally best to just prefocus or does CAF or even tracking work well with fast moving animals like mantas etc..???
  • Magic Filter and custom WB with slate underwater or more success with Peterbkk´s method ??

Thanks to anyone who finds the time to answer some of those questions or for any other GH4 video tips!!

Cheers!

Joerg

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You don’t need to run f8 on m43 cameras. That equal to f16 on FF in terms of DoF.

 

f5.6 is enough I find :-)

 

 

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Hahah! Thanks Richard, I photograph since years on m43 cameras and actually never realised that! Just read it up an yes you are right act DOF! Thanks!

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