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Hi,

 

I was trying to get some ½ and ½ photos of a wreck and the surface scenery. I hit the obvious problem with not enough visibility and light. But also a reflection from something in the underwater part? I used a 8 " ikelite dome with shade, 2 S&S YS-D1:s, a tokina 10-17 on a crop body. The strobes were behind the dome. I noticed the same problem in some normal shots too , but it was much less obvious and easy to edit out.

 

Here's the example:

 

Ju52_081114-37.JPG?img=small

 

Bad positioning of strobes ? Is this common for the setup or am I just doing something wrong ?

 

J

Edited by Simppu

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The transparent neck of the Ikelite ports let light passing inside, creating this reflections on the inside of the dome or plan port.
I made a sleeve of a old wet suit to block out the light, painting or simply using gaffer tape will do the trick also.
What you see as reflections are the silver "decorations" on your lens or just reflections on the lens barrel.
Chris

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The 8inch dome neck is not transparant, but the housing is. In the picture it looks like there is light reflected from the camera site of the dome. If I have my strobes too close I light up the zoom ring.

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Hi, thanks for the tips, I'll have to test blocking the light out from the housing. Note to self, don't take new gear on a trip without testing first at home.

 

Johan

 

This was what I tried to get into the picture :-)

 

Ju52_081114-24.JPG?img=smaller

Edited by Simppu

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I have that problem with the 8" ikelite dome on both the 10-22 and Tokina 10-17 lenses. Its a reflection of the lens front (on the 10-22 i could read CANON in mirror image on the thing. It was always worse on split shots OR very shallow water shots where the sun with *just* out of the frame. It ruined a fair number of shots as quite often it was too big to clone out. I tried various methods like a black marker pen over the lens from to hide the writing but nothing stopped it. The port itself is black so i assume its internal reflection through the housing itself. Short of duct tape over the entire housing front i don't know what to suggest.

 

On the 5" mini dome and 10-17 on the same setup i get no such issue.

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I can not see your sample picture but with the tokina 10-17 lens the strobes have to be about 6-8 inches behind the housing.

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That is definitely a reflection of the ikelite backing plate inside the dome. I still think that your getting strobe light inside the dome, the strobes need to be further back behind the housing.

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I don't think it hs anything to do with the strobes. I have the same effect in this picture (https://www.flickr.com/photos/129488282@N06/16139881542/) and wasn't even using strobes, it's just glare from the sun. You could try covering some of the offending areas that seem to reflect from the dome with black gaffa tape or something. Kind of like players do in American football with the black lines under their eyes.

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It's a problem that occurs with acrylic dome ports when sunlight hits the port at a certain angle.

 

I've seen it when I'm shooting my fisheye zoom and point the camera up towards the surface and sunlight. I don't get it all the time, but sometimes it shows-up. Someone told me glass dome ports don't produce the same issue. The same source suggested the use of black gaffer's tape on the reflected surfaces of the lens eliminate the problem.

 

-AZTinman

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I got some black tape before xmas, need to get it in place and then it's time to get under the ice again to test if it works. BTW, the strobes were about 10 cm behind the dome and in a low(ish) position, 40 cm from the housing.

 

J

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My Zen port sometimes does the same thing. I get the concentric ring design off my lens reflecting off the inside of the port. Only happens in certian lighting situations. I took some flat black paint to those rings!!!!

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I came here this evening to look for a solution to this very issue I had this weekend on the bottom of Lake Michigan. Regarding the gaffers tape approach, has anyone been successful with this approach? If so where exactly did you end up putting it to address the reflection issue. Thanks for your help,

Don

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You can order adhesive "flocking paper" which is paper covered is a velvety surface and cover the front ring around the lens. Also, for lenses with a red focus marker, just take a black sharpie to it. It helps, but you still need to take care when shooting in the direction of the sun and adjust angle accordingly.

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I just got back from Cayman and saw the same rings in some of my photos. They were shallow shots with no strobe usage. I was shooting a Tokina 10-16 in an 8" ike dome. My best guess for mine is the silver accent ring around the end of the lens. But it didn't occur to me that it could be the backing plate for the dome. I will have to check that too now.

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Has anyone tried fitting a 'donut' inside the dome port? This will totally block any stray light from hitting the inside of the dome. Certainly any reflective surface on the front of the lens need the matt black treatment as does any reflective surface within the dome port.

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Has anyone tried fitting a 'donut' inside the dome port? This will totally block any stray light from hitting the inside of the dome. Certainly any reflective surface on the front of the lens need the matt black treatment as does any reflective surface within the dome port.

 

Here is a question for the people having this problem. Are any of you using the internal camera flash? if not where would the light come from if it is reflected from? The donut is a solution for internal flash problems.

 

In the case of the Simppu picture http://johan.kuvat.f...7.JPG?img=small the inter ring is the hole where the port body attaches and the outer ring is where the acrylic dome attaches to the dome backing plate. The only way to really attach the flocking paper to the dome backing plate is to disassemble the dome. This is easily done by removing the outer o-ring. However I do not recommend that anyone try this as re-assembly is quite difficult without a vacuum device.

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I am not using the camera flash (not possible in Ike SLR housings)

And I have seen this both with and without strobes.

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I am not using the camera flash (not possible in Ike SLR housings)

And I have seen this both with and without strobes.

 

So the donut is of no use for this problem because the reflection is coming from the sun.

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I do believe that in my case it is the thin silver trim ring around the end of the lens.

Edited by K9Shadow

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Here is a question for the people having this problem. Are any of you using the internal camera flash? if not where would the light come from if it is reflected from? The donut is a solution for internal flash problems.

 

In the case of the Simppu picture http://johan.kuvat.f...7.JPG?img=small the inter ring is the hole where the port body attaches and the outer ring is where the acrylic dome attaches to the dome backing plate. The only way to really attach the flocking paper to the dome backing plate is to disassemble the dome. This is easily done by removing the outer o-ring. However I do not recommend that anyone try this as re-assembly is quite difficult without a vacuum device.

The donut is a solution to eliminating any extraneous light emanating from behind the front of the lens, provided it is correctly fitted.

 

I see the solution to the reflection problem as a process of elimination, only once you have got rid of all other potential light sources except for reflective surfaces associated with the front of the lens, can you clearly establish the lens as being the source of the problem if the problem still exists. If it is the thin silver trim ring, then paint it out with a matt black paint and test again, it is one element in the source elimination methodology and until you apply a methodology you will be running in circles.

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I had the same problem on Nauticam housing with Nikon D800, Nikon 16-35mm / Sigma 15mm, 2x YS-D1 flashes synced via FOCs. The half-donut shape was appearing at the bottom of the image. It was introduced by light from internal flash propagating to the dome (the port opening is much bigger then the lenses). The fix was simple - I used old rubbed hoods (cutted to required size with removed metal barrels) to block the leak :alien: Problem solved. I heard (never saw) somebody were producing special blank-offs for the cases like this.

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