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kc_moses

Panasonic LX-100 Nauticam housing

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Nice shot Chris! I see in your photos that with the Subsee +10, you get a bit of vignette at upper right and lower right corner, when you hold it close to the port, the vignette is gone. So my workaround or mod will solve the problem. But then if you shoot video, which will extend the focal length a bit, the vignette would disappear. The vignette would show up in photo, but you can always crop away.

 

The ideal size I want to get down to is 3mm, so I ordered the CMC-1, but they're in back order now.

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I wonder how far is the lens at full zoom from the glass port. In many cases at full zoom the lenses nearly touches the port but maybe the lx100 design is such that this does not happen or the port is a bit too long. There was a similar issue on the lx7

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I have reviewed my test photos from the pool test. They're confusing in the sense that I don't know which one is which since I did so many test. Good thing I wrote the note on my slate as I was changing diopter. So I would just go with my note.

 

With the modification I did on the flip diopter, here are the result I get (+/- 5mm) shooting in 16:9 aspect ratio:

- F.I.T +5 diopter let me shoot around 12cm subject

- Bluewater +7 let me shoot around 4.5cm subject

- Aquako IV let me shoot around 3.5 cm subject with vignette.

 

The Aquako IV like I mention is not suitable for LX100 and is believe to be made for dSLR. Even after my modification where the back of diopter sit right in front of the flat port, the vignette still occur. So if you want to shoot anything around 3 cm, the CMC-1 would be the way to go, or may be using Subsee+10 and stack something on top of it.

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Those results are consistent with my calculations. Unless you go for Pygmy the +7 will do a good enough job. I would look for something at m67 size for super macro as otherwise the vignette will come up. Am not sure the inon UCL-100 will perform well with this adapter but that would be a good candidate

Those results are consistent with my calculations. Unless you go for Pygmy the +7 will do a good enough job. I would look for something at m67 size for super macro as otherwise the vignette will come up. Am not sure the inon UCL-100 will perform well with this adapter but that would be a good candidate

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I don't have any problems using my UCL-100 with the flip adaptor on my GH4 with the 14-42mm (If that helps with anything!)

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I don't have any problems using my UCL-100 with the flip adaptor on my GH4 with the 14-42mm (If that helps with anything!)

On the 35 port no issue. That diopter can suffer if there is a gap to the port Inon doesn't recommend it for some ports where this happens so am unsure about the lx100 and that specific flip diopter design hence my point

The ucl-100 produces incredible quality on my gx7 test shots with no aberrations and super sharp images

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Reef Photos came through again, and I will be receiving the 1st production unit CMC-1 in the US, just in time for my Asia trip, flying out in 5 days!!!!! Looks like I will leave my Aquako IV in my spare diving bin at home and use it for something like a GH5 in the future.

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Yes, I'm taking the +5, +7 and the CMC-1...... 3 diopters in a dives. The +5 would let me shoot something like a mimic octopus, the +7 for frogfish, and the CMC-1 for, well, hopefully pygmy.

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There isn't much between a 5 and a 7. Maybe consider a 3 if you really want something more to add to the toolset

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There isn't much between a 5 and a 7. Maybe consider a 3 if you really want something more to add to the toolset

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Yes, I'm taking the +5, +7 and the CMC-1...... 3 diopters in a dives. The +5 would let me shoot something like a mimic octopus, the +7 for frogfish, and the CMC-1 for, well, hopefully pygmy.

 

So what is the CMC as a number?

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My +5 is the F.I.T, which is actually very weak compare to the +5 from other brand, I would say it's really equal to a +3. My +5 and +7 stack together is actually slightly weaker than the Subsee +10, so I'm all set.

 

If the SMC is equal to +12, then I would say the CMC is +13 or 14. The CMC is just slightly stronger than the SMC.

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Thanks to Mozaik, my CMC-1 should be on my (Canadian) doorstep tomorrow. In one week I'm taking it with the Subsee 10 to Bonaire to do some comparison shots.

 

<off topic>

It's always a challenge to get all scuba/video gear in two suitcases, but I'm thinking that if I can fit a drone with gimble and gopro into the suitcases it would be a great thing to accompany a scuba video, as per

</off topic>

 

Are there any specific shooting situations that you would suggest I attempt for comparison?

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Randy, are you sure you can fit the Phantom and dive camera in your carry on? May be you don't have video light, strobe and arm like I did. I carry my regulator in the carry on as well so there isn't a whole lot of room left.

 

Not sure about aerial video, most of the stuffs I see is footage of flying over dive boat, and flying over school of dolphins. In the US we soon will require a pilot license to fly drone, I don't think I will get into drone even though I would like to.

 

I hope you put me as reference for Mozaik, so I can get some points! :mocking:

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There are some useful information regarding the setting of the LX100. The menu and features could be quite overwhelming, so I thought this would help. I'm following some of the suggestion at least to start with:

 

http://cameraergonomics.blogspot.com/2014/12/setting-up-lx100-part-1-basic-decisions.html

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Good link, which brings up a question. Does anyone have the Panasonic LFAC1 petal type lens cap, and if so can they indicate if it can be left on the camera while inside the NA-LX100 housing?

 

Randy

PS: I'm hoping that the tropical countries that I dive in will not enact such laws regarding drones.

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Good link, which brings up a question. Does anyone have the Panasonic LFAC1 petal type lens cap, and if so can they indicate if it can be left on the camera while inside the NA-LX100 housing?

 

Randy

PS: I'm hoping that the tropical countries that I dive in will not enact such laws regarding drones.

Nope

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Don't use the petal lens cap, not even on land. I constantly have a UV filter on my lens to protect the actual lens so the petal lens cap won't work. I accidentally left the UV filter on the LX100 and when I have the 67mm short port on the NA-LX100, it hit the glass when I turn the camera on, so use the bare camera with the housing.

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Does the UV filter hit the standard rectangular port glass? I noticed that the lens was awfully close to the port on my system.

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I noticed two small black soft items in a small ziplock bag that accompanied the NA-LX100. They kind of resemble earplugs with a tab on them. Any idea what those are for?

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I don't have the UV filter on the camera when I put it into the housing. The UV filter get put back on once I'm done diving.

 

The two rubber ear plug looking thing goes in front of the flash area to plug the holes for the fiber optic cable for strobe. If you don't shoot photo with strobe, you can plug it in, but I just leave it out, one less thing to worry about loosing.

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I have made some preliminary measurements comparing the Subsee 10 and CMC-1, both connected to the NA-LX100 via the (non-modified) diopter flip frame in a plastic tub of water at home.

VIGNETTE

Subsee 10 lost vignette at 72 mm zoom. Consequently all measurements below are at 75 mm zoom.

CMC-1 lost vignette at 54 mm zoom. Therefore I will report two different picture widths for this lens at closest and furthest focus, corresponding to 54 and 75 mm zoom.

 

FOCAL DISTANCE [min to max] & RANGE

Subsee 10: 7.1 to 12.2 cm (= range of 5.1 cm)

CMC-1: 4.5 to 7.2 cm (= range of 2.7 cm)

 

PICTURE WIDTH

Subsee 10: 4.6 cm @ 75mm zoom

CMC-1: 4.2 cm @ 54mm zoom, 3.3 cm @ 75mm zoom

 

Randy
Edited by MrScuba

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Nice, 3.2cm is what Nauticam reported about the CMC. When shooting video, the crop factor would change a big so might be able to get smaller subject, but not by much. How is the sharpness of the CMC compare to the Subsee 10?

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