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Disabling/Bypass Ikelite TTL Controller on housing?

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Relatively time critical question...


I'm currently in Lembeh for a few days with the camera but the TTL controller on my housing is playing up, buttons electrically (not physically) stuck causing mode and power changes i cant override with the strobe (DS161s) dial themselves. The last time it was stuck on the default TTL mode and i couldn't hold both buttons in to turn to manual.


I never ever use TTL so this was a pain and causing very inconsistent shots.


So, can anyone tell me what pins to mask on the hot shoe OR as a last plan, what wire to cut so the thing just fires bypassing the controller? This should then allow me to use the dial on the strobe to adjust power.


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The only idea I'd have is if you were willing to use only one strobe...turn off the strobe on the Y adaptor cable that is providing the power to the TTL electronics (I think it's indicated with a band) and use only the other...then maybe the manual firing signal is still 'connected' although the TTL electronics themselves are off??

 

At least it's something you can try quickly.

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Based on your description, it sounds like something is shorting out the push button switches. If you're using your Canon housing, first try taping over the rear four contacts as shown under the How can I use a TTL sync cord to provide manual flash only? instructions on the FAQ Cerianthus referenced. Nikon instructions are also that page. Sony hot shoe information is not on our wiring FAQ, but you can first try taping off the front two contacts, leaving only the two towards the back of the camera exposed (G and F1 in the iISO diagram on this page).

 

If water has gotten onto the circuitry somehow, you will need to disconnect the bulkhead and hot shoe wires from the circuitry, then bypass the circuitry by splicing the white wires (trigger) and black wires (ground).

 

I hope this information helps you get through your trip, we can definitely provide a long-term solution on your return. I'll keep tabs on this thread. You can also email ikelite@ikelite.com which multiple people monitor!

 

Jean

Edited by Ikelite / Jean

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Cheers, masking worked. I don't use TTL anyway so its no real loss. Ive had the issue on a previous (550D) housing and the same on this. It also sometimes "crashes" and buttons stop responding and i need to power cycle the primary strobe to get control back.

 

I may just bypass it completely as above to prevent the problem coming back.

 

The controller has never been flooded but the housing does get varying amounts of condensation in and this does seem to affect it sometimes when it runs there. No real way around that as im in the tropics, high humidity and no aircon available.

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I had a similar problem - no control of the strobes, which flashed full power in both TTL and manual modes. Fortunately, this began to happen during a local dive rather than while on an expensive vacation. After a lot of wrong turns, I discovered that the problem was with the contacts on my camera's hot shoe, which was resolved by simply rubbing them with an eraser and a q-tip.

 

It's good to know the remedies outlined by Jean at Ikelite for more serious problems.

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