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alcina

Problems: new Nauticam housing w/ Canon 7DII

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I'm hoping you all can help me. I finally got into the water yesteday with the new gear above and tho I do love some things, some things left me frustrated and grumpy.

1 - my strobes wouldn't fire properly. During setup test, both strobes (one Inon 220 and one Inon 240) fired perfectly. I changed the batteries in one strobe because they were almost flat; didn't do anything else. Again tested things exactly the same way and now the strobe with the newly inserted fully charged batteries would not fire at all. Instead, it just did the flicker thing. Maybe like a preflash? Nothing I did would make it fire so I removed it from the system and went single strobe for the dive.

 

During the dive, the strobe fired great at first but then started to play up by randomly doing the flicker thing. It also seemed to have problems with changing power. I did some tests and there wasn't much variation in light from lowest setting to second highest setting. Why didn't I test with the highest setting? I did, but it wouldn't fire at all when set there! As you can imagine, this made for an extremely frustrating maiden voyage.

 

2 - the camera wouldn't take a shot every time. It was in focus, but no matter how I pulled the trigger nothing would happen. Missed some shots because the dumb thing wouldn't go. My buddy heard me screaming in frustration at this point. Didn't happen consistently and didn't always happen on moving subjects - it also happened when I was shooting something stationary.

 

So, not the most successful dive ever. I really want to love this new setup but I'm annoyed with it at the moment. I never had a lick of trouble with my Subal ;)

 

anyhoo, advice and instructions would be great. Thanks!

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Well you probably know this but you have to separate the problem: the strobe, fiber optic cables, housing or the camera.

 

If you are with other divers or near a dive shop see if you can test your strobes on another system someone has. The same goes with the camera. With all the divers and cameras out there someone should be able to help you troubleshoot using their system.

 

Did you try swapping the batteries from the good working strobe to the one that wasn't? It may be that your charger for the batteries is not charging correctly and everything is else is okay.

 

Check the pop up flash and see if it is being interfered with inside the housing.

 

Also, if the flash on your camera is set at the lowest setting to save on the camera battery, try boosting it to maximum to see if it works while still in the housing. It's a simple quick check that will at least eliminate that potential problem.

 

The Meltdownman

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thanks. no one around to help me test stuff, unfortunately. My strobes work perfectly with my existing Subal system and Canon 40D. Unfortunately the new cam doesn't fit in the old housing!

Swapped out batteries to ones that were definitely charged correctly, so I know the batteries are working properly.

 

Flash is set to factory default on the camera, but will have a look at that and to see if there is anything interfering with the pop up.

 

Will be trying to fix this later today before I try to hit the water again this week. Really appreciate all the ideas to double check. Hoping that with the knowledge here and more fussing on this end, I can get it all resolved.

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Sure it will be something simple that's easily overlooked. Seems to be just a syncing issue between camera flash and strobes.

 

Check the camera flash settings first. Set to TTL and also make sure not set on Red Eye reduction.

 

Not sure if your camera has pre-flash so try the strobes with the ACC switch both in down position and up position.

 

I'm sure you'll be grinning from ear to ear once over this initial and inievitable teething issue.

 

And of course being a new camera you have already RTFM :lol2: or are you like me; shoot first and ask questions later.

 

 

Cheers,

Jim.

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I have this same rig but with Inon Z 240's ..

Not sure whether this will be the issue, but you could check the housing flash pop up button on lefthand side, pushing it more than once can deactivate flash and go into flash settings.
Try swapping the TTL cables from one flash to the other and see if this can isolate the problem to an issue with the cables.

Also to note is that I recently came back from 8 days diving and had issues with the uni joint that connects to the the multi controller. This failed due to a missing screw and the other screw becoming loose and jamming. Just something to look at while you're problem fixing.

Dale

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ok, been playing around and can now get both strobes to fire & changer power settings, but they are both doing the flicker/preflash thing when I focus. my focus is on back button, not shutter release. Strobes fire properly when I click the shutter.

 

Except something funky happens with the 220 on full power - the flash actually fires, but the image comes up dark. Turn it back one notch and it comes up with the correct amount of light. Very weird, I think. Not a deal breaker, but annoying and I can't figure out why it would do that.

 

I can't seem to get the camera to not take a photo now, so hopefully that was just a non-recurring gremlin and all I need to do now is figure out how to turn off this preflash whatever it is.

 

Doesn't seem to matter if the button is up or down on the 240 - it works the same in both positions.

 

I have not installed the magnet on the 220 but now I've found it so can if it will help. I'm thinking not since I'm getting the same reaction from both strobes.

 

How do I make that stop?

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Kristin can you clarify if you are conecting to strobes Optically or Electronic/hard wired.

 

Don't know Canon specific settings but my hunch it is something in your cameras settings. I'm sure someone out there can clear this one up for you easy.

 

Can you go through what camera Modes and Settings you have been using? Did you check if Red Eye Reduction had accidentally been enabled?

As I say it is probably something simple and overlooked but you have to go through the process of elimination with all the components, Camera,

Camera Flash, Connections and Strobes.

 

7DMk2 Manual pdf- http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/5/0300016615/01/eos7d-mk2-im-en.pdf

 

Good Luck with it.

Cheers,

Jim.

Edited by JimSwims

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You most likely have the AF assist on still which is the problem for the camera’s internal flash.


Settings,

 

If you want to use TTL, keep the camera in TTL mode and then put the INON to STTL, right dial to 12 o’clock and the button on the bottom right should be OUT.

 

If you want to use manual, go to flash settings onthe camera, turn to Manual mode, turn to 1/128th output, put INON into M mode, use right dial to modifiy output, bottom right button should be IN (or the magnet should be IN for the Z220).


The AF assist will only activate in low light and let’s out a series of short flashes to aid autofocus. This needs to be turned off.

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Everyone else here is on the right track, AF-Assist needs to be shut off. I'm guessing on your old system strobes were fired electrically with sync cables, and this one optically, which requires some different strobe settings and other considerations.

 

Z-220 (blast from the past!) doesn't do optical ttl (Inon S-TTL), and my guess is that using it alongside the Z-240 will cause inconsistent results from the Z-240, so the best bet would be to use manual flash (as Alex describe above) on the camera's internal flash, and both external strobes.

 

There is no way to disable firing on a preflash with Z-220 unless you purchased an optional part from Inon called "Focus Light Controller," which I've found listed online below. This is causing the full power flash behavior you describe (IE strobe unloads all of its energy on preflash or af-assist flash, and has nothing left for the exposure flash).

 

Half power and below will work fine, with the strobe manual double flashing on preflash and exposure flash with the output set on the flash head.

 

Fortunately, with your your system, you don't need this other piece. Just set the camera popup flash to M, and a low power. Put the Z-240 Magnet "in", and set the output power manually on each flash head. The Z-220 magnet switch is irrelevant in this case, only having to do with focus light operation.

 

 

 

2 - the camera wouldn't take a shot every time. It was in focus, but no matter how I pulled the trigger nothing would happen. Missed some shots because the dumb thing wouldn't go. My buddy heard me screaming in frustration at this point. Didn't happen consistently and didn't always happen on moving subjects - it also happened when I was shooting something stationary.

 

Two things jump out at me here.... One is focus mode, in One Shot or AI Focus the camera won't take a picture that it doesn't think is in focus, and even if the image appears to be in focus through the viewfinder, if the camera's af brain doesn't agree it won't take the picture. This is the reason I shoot AI Servo, I can see things as in focus that the camera can't. This performance should be consistent with your previous systems, so I'm not thinking it is your issue.

 

Internal "pop up" flash recycle time is an issue with all optically triggered systems, and one that has to be managed. The AF Assist Flash and Flash outputs are draining your internal flash, and it takes some time to recycle. There are also electronics that prevent the popup flash from overheating, and will regulate performance. This will be much less of an issue when you switch the popup flash over to manual power and a low fractional output (like as low as it goes...).

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Ok, this is all great! I do use my strobes in M only.

 

I've set the camera's flash to manual and 1/128th now and my AF assist beam says off.

 

I'll set everything up later this morning and see if I'm good to go!

 

Thank you all for the help so far :)

Edited by alcina

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this helped me too! AF assist was still enabled and I was getting undesired pre-flashes. it looks like I can use AF assist on either "off" or "infra-red only", to prevent the camera and external strobe from pre-flashing.

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