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pvb

Lightning trouble

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Hi all,

 

I am just starting my underwater photography adventure and what causes my biggest headache so far is the lighting. On a lot of pictures I have a lot of harsh double shades showing. Any recommendations?

 

post-42855-0-99520100-1436634805_thumb.jpg

Edited by pvb

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HI Petra,

If you're truly having issues with Lightning I'd suggest finding a nice cozy mahogany drop off and a bottle of you favorite rum and sit out the storm. :drink: I'd had some very memorable dives under ongoing Lightning storms but it's not for everybody. If you really meant lighting (as in strobes) I'd council to get yourself a copy of The Underwater Photographer by Martin Edge, still the bible for strobe positions and basic skills to learn. There are also some great websites that have some really good information. The Underwater Photography Guide has some good examples on their website as one example. I've found no matter how much book learning you can get it's still necessary to get in the pool and practice. If none of that advice helps there is always the reminder to shoot up.

 

In the image you attached I would think about pointing the strobes higher so the bottom of the light cones just cross at the little ray. No reason the light the bottom. The bright bottom also makes the shadows more prominent. Might look something like this;

 

post-4526-0-02817700-1436671847_thumb.jpg

 

Good luck!

Steve

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Hi Steve,

 

I love lightning, hate lighting at the moment :D. Thanks for pointing that one out!

 

Thanks for all the tips. I am going to try to find the Martin Edge book today!

 

And i guess i need to attach some floaters on my strobe arms to help keeping them up.

 

Thanks for your time,

 

Regards,

 

Petra

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Alex mustard runs a workshop in Cayman that focussed on lighting. You might want to check that out

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Hey Petra

 

Those diffusers do look fun - if rather expensive.

 

I'd just suggest a note of caution though. The diffusers will spread the light more - which is not always a goods thing especially, I find, with wide-angle.

 

In the image you posted spreading the light across the image is indeed what you need - but there is always a risk with wide-angle of introducing even more backscatter by lighting the whole image especially if the viz is less than perfect and there are "floaters" in the water column. In those cases I suggest you'd want to use ambient light for the picture and use strobes to fill-in a specific element of the pic. And, for that, diffusers which spread the light even more are not necessarily helpful.

 

I don't know what strobes you are using but, if, say, the Inons, the ones that come with it are, by my experience, good enough.

 

I'd try Steve's suggestion before shelling out a lot of cash for plastic domes......

Edited by TimG

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Looking at that image it is an issue of strobe positioning

You can also use a graduated filter to correct in post the burned highlights

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Which strobes are you using? Do they have diffusers that you have attached?

 

The diffusers in the link above are really designed for softer and more even Close Focus Wide Angle and Macro lighting rather than for wide angle shots like the one you posted.

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I am using an inon Z240 and an inon D2000 both with 0.5 white diffuser.

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Hi Petra

 

 

I use a pair of Inon Z240s with 0.5 diffusers. I doubt you need to invest in any more diffuser than that.

 

As Steve and others have said, have a play around with strobe positioning ......

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I will and the Martin Edge book is on the way.:D

For the moment it is complicated because the arm to inon adaptor is defected. I ordered online and it arrived like that..I called it in and they promised me to send a new one which never arrived. In the meantime i continued shooting with the strobe attached to the arms with straps :). Not so easy to work with...I ordered another one from another place that is on the way.

Another thing i need might be floaters to keep the arms up high?

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That's annoying on the faulty part.

 

Hard to say on the floaters, Petra. It depends on how buoyant your gear is - and wide-angle set-ups tend to be more buoyant than macro. I'd try it first and see how you get on.

 

Depending on the type of arms you have you could get some Stix foam which is relatively inexpensive and I find works well. I use a pair of 8"+5" ULCS arms with the Inons for wide-angle. Stix on all four arms leaves my Subal D800 set-up with a 9" dome just slightly negatively buoyant.

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The floaters people use are to balance the buoyancy of the whole setup, not to keep arms up, if the arms are too loose just turn m a bit tighter

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