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Istiophorus

Inon Z-240 not working properly with Ikelite & Canon 5D III?

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I recently bought a pair of Inon Z-240, and it seems like I cannot regulate the power when using them with my Canon 5D III in an Ikelite housing. The left dial is turned to "M" (obviously), and turning the right dial does nothing for the power of the strobes. They always fire at medium strength, no matter what.

Help, anyone?

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Hi,

yes, I am using electrical. No, the button isn't in down position. As a matter of fact, I never knew what that button was for as I don't have a manual.

Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try and report back!

Edited by Istiophorus

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That button is to inform the strobe that the camera has or has not pre-flash.

 

As your camera has pre-flash, it has to be pressed in to the flash you're properly with the camera.

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Thanks to both of you, now it works!

One of the buttons seems to jam a little bit when pressed (can't turn all the way), any tips on how to clean it?

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Thanks to both of you, now it works!

One of the buttons seems to jam a little bit when pressed (can't turn all the way), any tips on how to clean it?

Hi Istiophorus

 

If you think it's salt build-up which is causing the button to stick, you could try soaking it in a mix of white vinegar and water.

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Thanks to both of you! Pretty sure it's salt buildup, will try soaking it in vinegar & water solution.

The settings guide is very helpful, things are a lot clearer now. What the guide doesn't explain: what's the thingy on the bottom right of the front (right below the "Inon Z-240" branding), which can be adjusted with a dial wheel? Doesn't seem to do anything...

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Hi Istiophorus

 

It can be a small grain of sand also. When rinsing, push the button and turn it both sides till it frees the salt or the sand. It is a patience game....

 

The "thingy" is upfront a sensor for the external auto function of the strobe. If there is too much light and you need to improve the accuracy of the external auto function, you can move the wheel and the area upfront the sensor get narrower and the sensor gets the sensivity reduced by 0.5 to 1 stop.

 

But it only has impact on the external auto (a function that allows the strove to measure by it self the amount of light that the subject you are litting reflects and calculates the right amount of strobe power. Only for the external auto position of the left dial.

 

If you do not use external auto, you does not need it, neither it will mess with you.

 

BR

 

Pedro Alves

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Thanks Pedro!

Is there a way to get rear-curtain sync (RCS) with the Z-240 and an Ikelite housing?

The camera does not recognize the strobes as flash units, and the proprietary Ikelite circuitry is inactive when using Inon strobes.

I really like the look of RCS, and it would be a damn shame if this were not possible.

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For my knowledge I think is not possible to have rear curtain sync on a Canon + Inon.

 

I think that Canon needs to recognize the flash to allow the rear curtain sync. It does not recognize the Inon as a strobe, so...

 

I do not have that on my Canon 40D with the Inon. I am waiting for a new housing for a Canon 7D MKII, I has willing to have that with the use of the internal flash + an optical cord, but I am not sure if that is possible.

 

I do not know if Ikelite strobes with Canon camera on ikelite housing allow you to have rear curtain sync. When I had a system like that, the camera (canon 350D) did not have the rear curtain sync function.

 

I think that the electronic circuits that allows to activate the strobe with a led are not recognized by Canon cameras as compatible flash, so the camera does not allow the rear curtain sync also.

 

If someone knows how to have that between a Canon camera and the Inon, I am also interested to learn!

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As far as I know rear curtain sync isn't possible on Canon + inon setups underwater. You can achieve a similar effect on swimming things by waving the camera through the water in the opposite direction of the motion though.

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Hi Liz

 

I think you mean waiving the camera with the same speed and direction of the moving subject, right?

 

You get the moving subjet almost "frezed" and the background with motion blur.

 

It is different from the rear curtain sync, where you get the background clear, the moving subject with motion blur to the back of the motion.

 

Both give sensation of speed. It is true.

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You are correct, I was thinking of panning same direction but faster than the subject. I don't really think about what I'm doing when I try this! I only thought it through after reading this very good summary by Alex:

 

http://www.amustard.com/?page=pro&ext=shark&subpage=news&size=s

 

Other option is of course to get the critter in question to swim backwards :lightbulb:

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