Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I've been using the MAHA chargers for my NiMH batteries, it has a 1 hour fast charge and a slower charge of around 2.5 hours.  I little bulky with the separate power pack but it does a good job, with all the usual features like individual charging control for each battery.  One issue with the Panasonic charger is 5 hour recharge time.

https://mahaenergy.com/chargers/

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tim:  Thanks for the offer, but I think I can get it purchased and shipped pretty cheaply.  Chris:  I am not too worried about the 5 hours.  That is from fully expended and slightly slower charging is better for battery.  5 hours I can live with if I can do 8 at a time.  I have been using a Maha, but my understanding is it does a 90% charge then a slow trickle, and I think a faster full charge might work better on eneloops.  Still researching, though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
41 minutes ago, Draq said:

Tim:  Thanks for the offer, but I think I can get it purchased and shipped pretty cheaply.  Chris:  I am not too worried about the 5 hours.  That is from fully expended and slightly slower charging is better for battery.  5 hours I can live with if I can do 8 at a time.  I have been using a Maha, but my understanding is it does a 90% charge then a slow trickle, and I think a faster full charge might work better on eneloops.  Still researching, though.

Fair enough, my thinking was doing two full superchargers would be 10 hours vs 4 and a bit hours with something like the MAHA. 

If you want something slower there is also this charger:  https://mahaenergy.com/mh-c800s/

It uses 500mA as the soft charge rate instead of 1000mA and may be more readily available perhaps?  STandard rate is 1000 mA which is 2-3 hrs charge time and soft rate is 500mA for 5-6 hours charge rate.

I have seen references stating that charging the batteries too slowly can also present problems - I found one reference on the MAHA site that recommended not charging at below 0.33C where C is the capacity in mAhr which for a 2500 mAhr battery is 825 mA, which would argue that a 1000mA charge current is not unreasonable for a battery of that capacity.  See this article for example:  https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-408-charging-nickel-metal-hydride

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, ChrisRoss said:

Fair enough, my thinking was doing two full superchargers would be 10 hours vs 4 and a bit hours with something like the MAHA. 

If you want something slower there is also this charger:  https://mahaenergy.com/mh-c800s/

It uses 500mA as the soft charge rate instead of 1000mA and may be more readily available perhaps?  STandard rate is 1000 mA which is 2-3 hrs charge time and soft rate is 500mA for 5-6 hours charge rate.

I have seen references stating that charging the batteries too slowly can also present problems - I found one reference on the MAHA site that recommended not charging at below 0.33C where C is the capacity in mAhr which for a 2500 mAhr battery is 825 mA, which would argue that a 1000mA charge current is not unreasonable for a battery of that capacity.  See this article for example:  https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-408-charging-nickel-metal-hydride

 

I have been using the 800S and considered the 980 but have been unable to determine if the 980 will charge eneloops to 100% at a suitable fixed charge rate, or will instead go to about 90% and then switch to slow trickle despite saying "done."  That is what the 800S is doing, leaving me to guess when the trickle charge phase is done.  Also, it can be damaging to the batteries over time to leave them on a trickling charger beyond a full charge, so charging overnight or while gone during the day is poor practice.  None of that posed much of a problem before because my prior flash units did not go through batteries so fast and of course I only needed 8 charged batteries at a time.  Needing to replace 16 batteries every day or every other day at the most will require more attention to battery charging.  If the 980 does not trickle charge, I would likely get one.  I called powerex to try and ask, but calls go directly to a voicemail and no one has yet called me back. 

https://lygte-info.dk/info/batteryChargingNiMH UK.html older article but addresses the needs of batteries like eneloops

https://lygte-info.dk/review/Review Charger Panasonic BQ-CC55 UK.html

https://lygte-info.dk/review/Review Charger Panasonic BQ-CC17 UK.html  similar circuitry as the CC63 I mentioned, but a slightly higher  charge rate than the cc63.  The cc63 might be lower than optimum.  I am having second thoughts about this option.

I may just use two BQ-CC55 chargers.  They have been tested and reviewed well and are fairly fast.  Using two gives me some backup in case one were to fail.  I just need to hope there are two available wall sockets. wherever I go, but that should rarely be a problem.

Perhaps I will eventually hear back from Powerex, and if so I will update.

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Any tips on opening the lid of a supercharger? I've just gotten them, read the app description (remove black protective cap, then pull the lid form the supercharger housing) but it seems impossible to dislodge..!

Thanks

 

Edit : Solved ! thanks @Stefan Ekman@Barmaglot

Edited by waterpixel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Unscrew the cap partially, grab the body and push down against a table. Then you can unscrew the cap and pull the lid.

Same for getting the lid of once it's on the strobe (be careful not to damage the o-rings).

Eventually it becomes easier.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just pull hard and wiggle a bit, it's pretty sticky, especially when new.

Be careful when installing it on the strobe, the o-rings sometimes pop out of the groove and get pinched. No big deal, just pull out and reseat.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

LOL, yeah, as the guys explain, its a question of unscrew and pull.  A little unnerving the first time for sure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi

I am hoping to get some more wise words from the forum.

I am trying to connect my recently acquired Retra Prime to the app on my phone.  I turn the strobe to BATT TEST and hold down the PILOT button until it goes blue.  No problems there. 

I then run the Retra UWT app and clicked the ADDNEW DEVICE button. I get the animated spinner.. and that's it.  It just stays there happily spinning away.  Several reboots of both devices and I am no further. Interestingly if I look at nearby Bluetooth devices on the android Bluetooth screen it does "see" the Retra and it is the right serial number.  

Do I need to reset the device or something like that? I did buy it second hand so presumably it was previously connected to another phone.

Any pointers gratefully received!

 

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are using an Android phone then please go to system settings and App permissions. Allow “access to nearby devices” for the Retra UWT App. This is something specific on android phones with the new android software. If this is not checked the flashgun might not be visible in our App.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With the next update we will be able to alert the user if these settings are not correctly checked. This is something new that has come up with the android system, probably as an additional security feature.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Paul

I hope this solves the problem for you.

Yep, the strobe was certainly connecting to my iPhone before it left for you. I updated the firmware twice, I think, without a hitch. Another update is now due.

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Oskar@RetraUWT said:

Allow “access to nearby devices” for the Retra UWT App

Thanks @Oskar@RetraUWT.  That worked like a charm! After enabling this the strobe was instantly visible and I was able to connect. 

@TimG - happy days! I was able to update the firmware and I set U1 to SmartSL as discussed in the other thread.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Sandyzoo2 said:

@TimG - happy days! I was able to update the firmware and I set U1 to SmartSL as discussed in the other thread.  

:good:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dear WetPixels

Am A happy owner of Retra strobes, the Pro X. Bought in December, now is the time to put the in the sea (...). Still in my office as new.

Fresh ENELOOP batteries (black), wired with Sea & Sea cable the same as with my YS110a, all as previous.

I open them, first for test, white color check and the green. All ok.

Then turn into Manual With -1 stop setting. Purple color stable. Fire on hole, strobes fire. Second fire in 1 sec, strobes does not fire. Wait a few (2-3 secs), strobes fire.

Is that acceptable? What am doing wrong? 

Any advice is welcome since i will need to use them in expedition quite soon.

Thanks

Dimitris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Dimitris

At -1 manual setting Retra Pros would normally fire back-to-back without an issue. Something isn't right.

Can you describe the whole system: camera, trigger mechanism, fibre or electrical connection? 

What shutter speed are you using? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have Aquatica Housing with Canon 80D, settings to MANUAL as in my previous setup with YS110a, electrical connection.

I try also to connect with bluetooth to the strobes but it takes way too long (even my bluetooth have kept the two serial numbers and i can pair them).

Any advice is more than welcome.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/21/2022 at 9:08 PM, Oskar@RetraUWT said:

If you are using an Android phone then please go to system settings and App permissions. Allow “access to nearby devices” for the Retra UWT App. This is something specific on android phones with the new android software. If this is not checked the flashgun might not be visible in our App.

Regarding the connectivity please see above. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, dpoursanidis said:

I have Aquatica Housing with Canon 80D, settings to MANUAL as in my previous setup with YS110a, electrical connection.

I try also to connect with bluetooth to the strobes but it takes way too long (even my bluetooth have kept the two serial numbers and i can pair them).

Any advice is more than welcome.

You are using an electrical connection which would need the E-opto converter to fire?  This works as manual flash only.  what mode are you using on the flash?  what about flash mode on your camera?  These need to match so that the flash ignores any  pre-flash from the camera.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Oskar@RetraUWT said:

Regarding the connectivity please see above. 

The issue was also with that and with the fact that the app is classified as system app and need to dig dipper.

Now firmware is updated and seems that works.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, ChrisRoss said:

You are using an electrical connection which would need the E-opto converter to fire?  This works as manual flash only.  what mode are you using on the flash?  what about flash mode on your camera?  These need to match so that the flash ignores any  pre-flash from the camera.

Yeap. Now after firmware update, seems that works fine.

The bizzare is that the fresh ENELOOP 2500m does not work as good as i expect. With few flashes and updates of firmware etc, drop below 30% in half an hour of work. Now i add new batteries and tomorrow first day in the water. 

I would like to see 2 versions or one version similar to INON or S&S on how to use electrical connection or optical without any need of e-opto converters.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi everyone, looking for some of this group's wisdom. Is anyone using the retra pro x with the sony a1? Curious to hear it they can sync at 1/400 ss of the a1's.

I have this on the top of my list but my dive shop recommends the seacam 160D. Seacam just sounds overpriced IMO. What do you guys think?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, dpoursanidis said:

Yeap. Now after firmware update, seems that works fine.

The bizzare is that the fresh ENELOOP 2500m does not work as good as i expect. With few flashes and updates of firmware etc, drop below 30% in half an hour of work. Now i add new batteries and tomorrow first day in the water. 

I would like to see 2 versions or one version similar to INON or S&S on how to use electrical connection or optical without any need of e-opto converters.

You didn't answer the question regarding mode you are using, it's possible for example if you are in manual on the strobe and are using a mode on the camera that uses a pre-flash that the strobe is firing twice which would explain the long recycle times and battery life potentially.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, ChrisRoss said:

You didn't answer the question regarding mode you are using, it's possible for example if you are in manual on the strobe and are using a mode on the camera that uses a pre-flash that the strobe is firing twice which would explain the long recycle times and battery life potentially.

Yes definitely check this. This is what happened to me before I followed the advice on here and set U1 to SmartSL.  I have to take a calibration shot now each time I use the strobe.. but this is quick and hassle free.  Previously the Retra had been firing twice which went undetected by my eyes!

Edited by Sandyzoo2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, ChrisRoss said:

You didn't answer the question regarding mode you are using, it's possible for example if you are in manual on the strobe and are using a mode on the camera that uses a pre-flash that the strobe is firing twice which would explain the long recycle times and battery life potentially.

I didn't check that - assuming that in M mode they will work as in with my YS110a. I will check that in the menu of Canon 80D, right? Thanks Chris for the advice !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sponsors

Advertisements



×
×
  • Create New...