holloways 2 Posted May 2, 2017 Im trying to trouble shoot one of my YS D1 strobes that slowly quit firing last weeek. I've already checked all the obvious stuff (batteries, fiber optic cable, flood, water, settings...) The strobe power indicator lights still glows - so I know it is getting power... it is just quit firing (my second strobe works fine) I was told that I could trouble shoot the strobe by manually firing it in the following manner.... I'm not clear on these directions, so please let me know if you know how to properly do this: 1) remove the sync cord cap 2) using a metal object (like butt end of tweezers) push in the center pin 3) at the same time, press two of the 5 pins (which ones???) This is supposed to trigger the strobe. Can anyone provide more insight into this process - and / or other ideas to trouble shoot the strobe? FInally - if it is the "bulb" it will cost upwards of $200 USD to fix. Is it work the price to fix or would I be better off buying a little INON strobe for $350 instead? Thanks so much! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pavel Kolpakov 69 Posted May 2, 2017 (edited) Connect X and GND pins. This way you check if the strobe still can give normal power flash, triggering by electric input. Then, the next steps wiill be more clear. Edited May 2, 2017 by Pavel Kolpakov 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KeithG 21 Posted May 2, 2017 Connect X and GND pins. nikonos-pinout.jpg This way you will see if the strobe still can give normal power flash, triggering by electric input. Then, the next steps wiill be more clear. A full description of the 5 pins is provided herehttps://www.camerasunderwater.co.uk/ttl-flash-interface Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
holloways 2 Posted May 2, 2017 Patel - this is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much!!!!! Pavel - you're the best!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
holloways 2 Posted May 7, 2017 Thank you Pavel. This worked perfectly - unfortunately my strobe did not fire. Guess that means the issue is probably the bulb and hence a $200+ repair bill. Next question - would it make sense to cut my losses and buy a new little INON strobe for $350 instead of paying $200 + shipping, insurance, etc to get the Sea and Sea repaired? Is it a problem to mix strobes? INON S-2000 S-TTL: Guide # 20, Recycle time 1.5 sec, Color Temp: 5400K ... also has wireless slave mode (which is a plus for me) Sea and Sea YS D1: Guide # 32, Recycle time 1.9 sec, Color Temp: 5600K What do y'all think? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pavel Kolpakov 69 Posted May 8, 2017 (edited) Next question - would it make sense to cut my losses and buy a new little INON strobe for $350 instead of paying $200 + shipping, insurance, etc to get the Sea and Sea repaired? Is it a problem to mix strobes? INON S-2000 S-TTL: Guide # 20, Recycle time 1.5 sec, Color Temp: 5400K ... also has wireless slave mode (which is a plus for me) Sea and Sea YS D1: Guide # 32, Recycle time 1.9 sec, Color Temp: 5600K What do y'all think? If you want to change YS-D1 to INON equivalent, it should be Z-240. S-2000 is nice, but it is in another class of strobes. This is a small strobe, it has less power and beam angle. S-2000 is popular for macro shooting, or for compact systems. Sometimes, photographers mix big and small strobes in a pair to get more volumetric picture. The lighting is weaker from one side in this case. But in common case, it is more simple to control 2 similar strobes in a pair. Edited May 8, 2017 by Pavel Kolpakov Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
holloways 2 Posted May 8, 2017 Thank you Pavel! You've answered my question(s) brilliantly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
