YS-D2 TTL vs YS-27 Manual

[jcclink28 2]

I recently upgraded from a pair of YS-27's to YS-D2's. I always used the 27's in manual mode (no TTL available). Now I can use both TTL & manual. With the 27's I knew about how many shots i could take on a set of batteries. Now I'm having trouble trying to figure out the number of shots that I should be able to get in TTL mode. I'm using PowerEx 2700's. Since TTL is new to me I'm using it most of the time. I never know when the strobes will fire their last shot. For a given exposure, will battery consumption be different with TTL vs manual? Any recommedations or suggestions greatly appreciated.

[Stoo 32]

The answer will depend on what power you used on the strobes when you shot in manual mode. If you had them firing at full power, then you will likely get more shots in TTL since the strobes will shoot at less that full power most of the time.

 

On the other hand, if you normally shot with the strobes at say 1/3 - 1/2 power like I do on my Ikes, then you may find you get a similar number or less.

 

At the end of the day, when you give up control of the strobes to the camera, you have no way of knowing if they're going to shoot a little or shoot a lot... And so you get what you get.

[Kraken de Mabini 70]

I have been shooting with two YS-D2's for over one year and use them only on Manual. From my buddies experience and what is written by divers here in Wetpixel, I would be reluctant to use TTL. The reason is that the YS-D1's and D2's are problem strobes, they overheat and malfunction easily, the flash tube goes bye bye, particularly when in TTL mode. Plus Sea&Sea has a less than gold medal reputation in the warranty and repairs departments.

The more I learn about the S&S YS-D2's the more I miss my trusty Inon Z240's, which I sold last year. I now have two heavy duty Light&Motion Sola's as backups.

[Pavel Kolpakov 63]

YS-D2, YS-D1 have total flash duration range 0....4.2 msec (FULL energy). But using Optical TTL, the available range is only 0....0.63 msec (this is less than 1/2 power). This is YS-D1/D2 specific. The battery life is proportionally longer using TTL mode there, than using Manual mode large power values.

Edited June 20, 2017 by Pavel Kolpakov

[kstokell 4]

I can concur with Kraken de Mabini, the "YS-D2 IS A PROBLEM STROBE" and in my opinion "not fit for its intended use"!

 

I bought two of these strobes and both have suffered from overheating failures. One from a disintegrated "flash tube" and the other from a burnt front cover. If you hope to use these strobes for a long period "DO NOT USE THEM REPEATEDLY AT FULL POWER", which includes using TTL as you cannot be sure of the output power when in TTL mode!

 

It seems Sea & Sea and at least some re-sellers are aware of this issue and I'm told Sea & Sea are working to rectify it.

 

I am currently trying to get my strobes replaced/repaired under warranty as I feel strongly that the strobe as it is currently sold, is not able to function reliably to it's stated specifications, and I certainly would never have purchased these strobes had I been told of this problem. I certainly cannot afford to have to have my strobes repaired every year or so just so I can use them to the specifications Sea & Sea provide on the outside of the box!

 

I'll let everyone know how I get on with my warranty claim!

 

I have been shooting with two YS-D2's for over one year and use them only on Manual. From my buddies experience and what is written by divers here in Wetpixel, I would be reluctant to use TTL. The reason is that the YS-D1's and D2's are problem strobes, they overheat and malfunction easily, the flash tube goes bye bye, particularly when in TTL mode. Plus Sea&Sea has a less than gold medal reputation in the warranty and repairs departments.

The more I learn about the S&S YS-D2's the more I miss my trusty Inon Z240's, which I sold last year. I now have two heavy duty Light&Motion Sola's as backups.

Edited June 20, 2017 by kstokell