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adamhanlon

Nikon 8-15mm in the house!

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"I was using it without the port shades and the lens hood, because I had a zoom gear on it"

 

 

It hadn't occurred to me to put the lens hood on the lens within the domes, so I tried that out today at home. On the Nauticam system, the lens hood will not pass through the N120 housing throat so has to be mounted from the front after the camera has been installed and before mounting the dome. That works fine with adequate clearance for the Nauticam 210mm dome and 20mm port extension. However there is insufficient radial clearance for use with the Zen DP-100 dome and the recommended 30mm port extension. There will probably be adequate clearance using larger Zen domes. The Nauticam zoom gear does not prevent mounting of the lens hood. It would be interesting to find out if using a lens hood within larger domes avoids the flare that is apparently sometimes an issue using full frame without external dome shades.

 

Mark

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Now the Nikkor 8-15 has been around for a while I wondered how any Subal DX users are getting on with it .

 

I'd like to try this lens with the DP100 on a D500. Anyone have any info on a suitable EXR and zoom ring with the ND500 housing?

 

Thanks!

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I purchased my Nikon 8-15mm last July and on my last dive on that year's dive trip shot it on a D800 in a Subal ND800 housing with a Seacam wideport on it.. Nice results, one of which, mating octopuses, I posted under this topic. I'm finally diving again with a new camera (Nikon D850), new housing (Nauticam NA-D850), and new port (a Saga 4" dome).

 

Enroute to Australia I stopped in Bali and was able to do five dives with the above combination in conditions ranging from mediocre to great (Kalanganyar, then Menjangan Island, and finally Secret Bay). I took several hundred pictures with the fisheye behind the Saga dome which does not allow you to use Nikon's own lens shade. I did have a shade on the Saga dome port that was made from a PVC pipe-joint that I purchased from Home Depot for $6.05 and the paid a machine shot to fit to the dome. The shade also provides protection for the otherwise exposed and vulnerable glass dome.

 

In none of my pictures did I get any of the unusual flare that Alex Mustard and Adam Hanlon reported. I enjoyed shooting pictures with the exaggerated perspective of the fisheye while getting quite close to subjects that were sometimes only a few centimeters in length.

 

The striped catfish at Kalanganyar were only about 2-3 cm long, but look larger due to the fisheye and being only about15 cm from the dome port. The Striped Cleaner Shrimp was also quite small and was only a cm or two from the Saga dome port. The yellow frogfish, Antennarius hispidus, was about 20 cm long. The first shot with the rope was shot from about a foot away and the second shot from only a few inches.

 

Although I was shooting FX with no cropping, it is easy to imagine the cropings that would have been possible had I chosen to shoot in the DX mode or 1.2 crop mode.

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Edited by divegypsy

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Alex. I have recently taken about 560 images underwater with the Nikkor 8-15 fisheye on the DX format D500, around 230 of which contained partial or full sunbursts or dappled light. Most were taken with a 210mm Nauticam acrylic dome but a few were with a Zen DP100 dome and a few again were taken in conjunction with a Kenko 1.4x TC. Focal lengths varied through the DX applicable zoom range and there are a mixture of horizontal and vertical format shots. None of the images show any hint of the flare seen in your and Adam’s shots. Many of the sunburst shots were taken fairly shallow – a few at 3m. or slightly shallower. Probably the relevant difference is that using DX, I didn’t need to remove the dome shade but I didn’t use the lens hood.

 

Mark

 

Mark whats your opinion the Nikon 8-15mm when compared directly against the Tokina 10-17mm on the Nikon D500?

 

Regards Mark

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Hi Mark. Optically, the greatest difference is substantially less chromatic aberration with the 8-15. Subjectively, the lens is also significantly sharper. As expected, these differences are more pronounced towards the edges of the image.

A downside is the reduced useful zoom range on DX meaning less reach. If youre not careful It is also easy to waste a few pixels by zooming out too far and cutting off the corners. These issues can be avoided by using a Kenko 1.4x teleconverter although this does sacrifice a few degrees of coverage at the wide end. Optically this combination works well behind a dome. When I last looked, no manufacturer offered a zoom gear for the combination so I use the standard Nauticam gear and a removable collar that provides the necessary extension.

For me the image quality improvements far outweigh the minor downsides and I have retired my Tokina.

Regards, Mark

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Hi Mark. Optically, the greatest difference is substantially less chromatic aberration with the 8-15. Subjectively, the lens is also significantly sharper. As expected, these differences are more pronounced towards the edges of the image.

A downside is the reduced useful zoom range on DX meaning less reach. If youre not careful It is also easy to waste a few pixels by zooming out too far and cutting off the corners. These issues can be avoided by using a Kenko 1.4x teleconverter although this does sacrifice a few degrees of coverage at the wide end. Optically this combination works well behind a dome. When I last looked, no manufacturer offered a zoom gear for the combination so I use the standard Nauticam gear and a removable collar that provides the necessary extension.

For me the image quality improvements far outweigh the minor downsides and I have retired my Tokina.

Regards, Mark

 

Mark, appreicate your reply.

On the wider scale of things have you compared the Nikon 8-15mm against the Nikon 10.5mm Fisheye on the D500?

 

Regards Mark

Edited by Aussiebyron

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Hi Mark. I cant offer personal comparative experience with the Nikon 10.5. I would suppose that as a much more modern and expensive lens, the 8-15 might be optically better, but of course as a zoom lens, design compromises will have been made. These compromises arent obvious to me in underwater use.

Regards, Mark

Hi Mark. I cant offer personal comparative experience with the Nikon 10.5. I would suppose that as a much more modern and expensive lens, the 8-15 might be optically better, but of course as a zoom lens, design compromises will have been made. These compromises arent obvious to me in underwater use.

Regards, Mark

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So far, I have been getting really good results with the Nikon AF-S Fisheye NIKKOR 8-15mm f/3.5-4.5E ED Lens mated with a Kenko 1.4X Pro 300 Teleconverter, which essentially turns it into a 11-21mm fisheye zoom on my D500 body. In addition to having the sharpness slightly better than the Tokina 10-17, I am seeing far less CA in the images than what I would typically see when using the 10-17.

 

Currently I favor using it with the Nauticam 180mm dome port with a 30mm extension ring, as well as my newly acquired Nauticam 140mm dome port with a 50mm Nauticam Extension ring. To get the lens to work with the 1.4X Teleconverter I strangely enough found that I could make one of Nauticam’s Focus gears for the Canon EF 100mm f2.8 Macro lens to work – with a slight amount of manipulation to the plastic insert ring for it.

 

Here is an image from Cayman Brac shot with the lens zoom out at 11mm, 8mm if you go by the zoom ring marks from behind the Nauticam 180mm dome port with a 30mm extension ring. Exposure values: 1/180 s at f/9.5, ISO 400.

 

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Interesting topic, so for a D850 which is the best lens sigma 15mm, nikon 8-15mm, nikon 16mm?? Used with zen dp-230 or zen 100/4

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^The 8-15 should still have the optical edge over the 15mm and the close focus advantage over the 16mm.

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As I stated in my review, the Sigma 15mm shoots very well. ALL of the lenses on the Nikon need to be checked for calibration issues on the D850. Focus is critical with this super-high resolution beast. I'm not sure that the Nikon 8-15 is worth nearly 3 times the cost. I'll be able to try it on my next trip in the fall.

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The Nikkor 8-15 has been around for a while now and I'd welcome some advice.....

 

I've got a Subal DP100 and have asked Subal for their recommendation for an EXR on that - they recommend an EXR20 for their DP230 and the 8" dome too (DP-FE). But how do folks find using the 8-15 with a 4" domeport? The reviews I have read on various websites sound good - but I'd welcomed the views of WPers. Is there any major advantage using an 8" port (or a 230) other than for obviously over/unders? Are corners significantly sharper?

And how about with a Kenko 1.4TC and a 4" dome? How are people finding that? Finding a zoom ring for that combination sounds problematic. But maybe there is a way to rig one :crazy:

Thanks!

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I have used the 8-15mm with a 4" port and the Seacam CFWA port (with a Kenko 1.4x TC) which is significantly smaller.

 

I think that while the results are acceptable, there is no doubt that smaller ports do affect image quality. The fisheye effect camouflages the corner distortion, but it is still there...

 

I would recommend shooting this lens behind a 170mm port or greater size if possible.

 

Adam

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OK, many thanks, Adam

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I gave up on using the 100mm/4 inches mini dome ports a while back. Now that I am using the Nikon 8-15mm with a Kenko 1.4x TC as my primary wide-angle, I have been playing around a bit with a Nauticam N120 Optical Glass Fisheye dome, which is 140mm/5.5 inches across.

 

Here is one image with the barrel sponge was taken with the lens set at 9mm (with the 1.4x TC = 13mm) at f9.5.

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Edited by Walt Stearns

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Same lens arrangement going closer with the lens set at 21mm (with the 1.4x TC = 15mm) at f13 to get the this octopus and scorpionfish pair.

post-4290-0-15120500-1532374974_thumb.jpg

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Yeah, I forgot to mention in my post that I'd be using the 8-15 with a D500 - so DX.

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Thanks Adam. The body I am currently using is a Nikon D500 in a Nuaticam housing.

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Many thanks, Walt.

 

Nice pics indeed. That combination is working well.

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I follow this tread with great interest, although I am not a Nikon 8-15mm user:

 

I use the Canon 8-15mm fisheye with the Oly EM5MII (MFT sensor; with and without the 1.4x teleconverter). The purpose is similar to the people that use the Nikon 8-15mm on DX - use the lens for WA (instead of switching from circular fisheye to 180 degree diagonal fisheye as is the case on FF).

=> So far I use the 8-15mm fisheye with the Zen DP-170-N120, but this dome is not ideal for everything: (i) the dome is big and (ii) it is not a hemispheric dome as would be ideal for a fisheye lens (I suspect that with a hemispheric dome the images would become sharper)...

 

=> I am very interested to hear which fisheye dome gives best sharpness with such a 8-15mm fisheye lens with cropped sensors - 100mm or 140mm diameter (with the 2x crop factor of the MFT format, the minimum dome size for sharpest images MAY be even a little smaller than for the 1.5x crop of DX - several people have stated already that the 100mm dome leads to bad image quality when used with the 1x "crop"-factor of FF, so 100m is not a good option for FF, but MAY be very well for MFT).

 

Wolfgang

Edited by Architeuthis

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Same lens arrangement going closer with the lens set at 21mm (with the 1.4x TC = 15mm) at f13 to get the this octopus and scorpionfish pair.

 

Walt, what EXR do you use with the 8-15 with that N120 dome; and then what EXR do you use when you add the 1.4TC? How many millimetres is the difference between the two EXRs?

 

I've not been able to pin down the difference from Subal.

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Yes I am currently using the N120 dome port. The two images I posted back on July 23rd were shot with the N120 mounted on 50mm extension ring.

 

When comparing Nauticam’s N120 Port System chart for Nikon lenses to that of Canon’s lenses, I am a bit puzzled as to difference extension ring size recommendation between the two lenses. The Nikon chart says I should use the 20mm extension ring with the 140mm dome for optimized results, where as the Canon chart says the 30mm is the recommended size extension ring for the Canon 8-15 with the 140mm dome port.

 

On the outside, the dimensions are virtually the same with the Nikon 8-15 measuring approx. 3.05 x 3.27" (77.5 x 83 mm) to the Canon 8-15 also measuring approx. 3.09 x 3.27" (78.5 x 83 mm). The same applies the minimal focus distances for both lenses with 6.3" (16 cm) for the Nikon 8-15, 6.2" (15.75 cm) with the Canon 8-15. Logic would say the required extension for these two lenses should be the same, leaving me puzzled as to why the extension ring for the Nikon 8-15 needed to be 10mm’s shorter.

 

Enquiring directly to Nauticam as to why this is, their explanation is that although the two lenses are physically very similar on the outside, in actuality (due to the fact that they two different systems) the results when comparing them behind the N120 (140mm) dome port with the 30mm extension ring, test results with the Nikon 8-15 fisheye experienced very slight amount of vignette at the 8mm focal length on a full frame DSLR, therefore on the Nikon chart, Nuaticam lists the 20mm extension ring.

 

Keep in mind, when Nauticam did their work on matching which extension ring would work best, the only viable options at the time was the 20mm and 30mm. Since then they have introduced both a new 25mm and 30mm size extension rings.

 

So now I am giving the N120 port a go with a 25mm and 20mm when using the 1.4X Teleconverter, and just the 25mm when I am not using the 8-15 by itself. Of course, when using the lens by its self, my working range at its widest focal range before vignette is 13mm to 15mm.

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Thanks for that, Walt. Very helpful

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For what it is worth, Seacam recommends a 20mm extension for both the Canon and Nikon 8-15mm lenses with their dome ports. However, when the C lens came out and these recommendations were not yet out, I tried a range of extensions and got OK results with the 25 and 30mm as well if I recall correctly (tried it with their Superdome which is less than a hemisphere like a lot of other similar domes). Longer extension than what is used with a hemisphere would thus seem better. I suspect the glass part in all of them comes from the same source - how many companies can make them? So results should be comparable. I did not do critical tests - mainly looked out for vignetting from the shade and if my subjects were sharp - I was doing actual shoots of salmon as it was that time of year. Since then I have use the 8-15 C lens much more with their smaller Wideport due to stream depth limitations. I will likely do the same for the N version that is now in my arsenal.

Edited by Tom_Kline

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