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seansrs968

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Just use a smaller aperture, say f16 or higher, with a low ISO. This is assuming you have true negative space, as any background within a meter or so will be illuminated by the strobe. Shutter speed will have no effect as the strobe is much faster anyway.

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Yep, I agree with troporobo: negative space background if you can - and then small aperture, or fast shutter speed. On DX/FX I usually use about f16.

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Key thing is to shoot a subject that is "above" the background, shoot toward the empty water column if the subject allows. If not, try using a snoot.

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There is also a technique where you reverse the strobes so that you are effectively firing them backwards. You then use the edge of the beam to light the subject, but not do not light the background.

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I would really like to get this technique to work for me, but so far have only made a mess trying it. Given the cone of light that is output by strobes, if the edge of the beam lights the subject then it is guaranteed to light up the water and particles between the lens and subject. Maybe if the subject is very close, this is less important, but I still get unacceptable backscatter. Any tips for success?

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