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Here is an underwater image comparing the power and beam angle of the Z330 to that of the Z240

 

COMPARISON_1_800.jpg

 

No diffusers were attached and camera settings were identical for both images.

 

Three things that are fairly obvious:

 

1. The Z330 is significantly more powerful. I would guess around a stop

2. The beam of the Z330 is quite a bit wider. The specs suggest a 10° difference, this would suggest that it is more.

3. The fall off and edge of the beam of the Z330 is a lot softer. In practice, I think this will make the light produced by the Z330 much better.

 

Testing continues...the Retra Flash arrived today!

 

Adam

 

 

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Thanks for posting Adam,

I can see that the Z330 has less fall off, but oddly looking at the two photos the one shot with the Z240 looks brighter in the center.

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I think it is just contrast Geo...

 

The histogram are here:

 

Z330_histo1.jpg

Z330

 

I just posted the wrong histogram! The above one is correct.

 

Z240_histo.jpg

Z240

 

 

Adam

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Here is an underwater image comparing the power and beam angle of the Z330 to that of the Z240

 

COMPARISON_1_800.jpg

 

No diffusers were attached and camera settings were identical for both images.

 

Three things that are fairly obvious:

 

1. The Z330 is significantly more powerful. I would guess around a stop

2. The beam of the Z330 is quite a bit wider. The specs suggest a 10° difference, this would suggest that it is more.

3. The fall off and edge of the beam of the Z330 is a lot softer. In practice, I think this will make the light produced by the Z330 much better.

 

Testing continues...the Retra Flash arrived today!

 

Adam

 

 

 

 

 

This same shot Adam Z330 vs Retra would be very interesting to see

Edited by Barry Field

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Hi,
what about trigger sensivity with the new ones?
Same or more than the z240?
Thanks,
Wolfgang

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I have had quite a few questions about heating issues with the Z330.

 

Inon have added a metal heat sync that is exposed to the water.

 

I have been testing battery durations and have been firing the Z330 continuously for around 230-250 flashes at high power. The strobes have been immersed in room temperature water (around 15°C). The strobes have been cool to the touch throughout.

 

I should point out that I have been doing the same with the Retra Flash recently, and they have not been heating up either...

 

This is not particularly scientific and is simply an observation on our testing so far.

 

In terms of the review, I will be finishing the UK testing of the Z330, Retra Flash and iTorch Symbiosis SS2 on Saturday. The Z330s will then go to the Caribbean with Alex Mustard till late January and then all the strobes will go to the Red Sea with me in early Feb. Many thanks to Emperor Divers for hosting me.

 

I will keep responding to specific queries on here too.

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Hi Adam,
i mean the sensivity for ignition with fibre wire.

I have S&S 250pro and D2, they are hard to fire, Inon D2000 Typ 2 needs less input, Typ 4 ( z240 / d2000 ) much less.

This is inportant if you use led trigger. Depending on the construction of the housing, position of led and acrylic window.....

So the more sensivity, the better for my combination ;-))

The Inons were getting more sensitiv from type to type, so i hope that has been done now as well...

Regards,
Wolfgang

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I have been triggering the Z330 with an Anglerfish Remote trigger and an Underwater Technics optical board installed into my Seacam housing. The UW Technics board uses an LED bulkhead, while the Anglerfish uses an LED too. In all cases, the strobes have been in manual mode and connected via (Nauticam) fiber optic cables.

 

So far, none of the strobes under test has had any issue with triggering. I actually can't think of a single instance when they did not fire (except when I was testing recycle times....)

 

To be fair, my experience with the Z240 was no different. One important consideration is the quality of the fiber cables. I had some from another manufacturer that were not as reliable. I have found Nauticam, Sea&Sea and Inon ones to be very reliable.

 

Adam

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Hi Adam,
thanks a lot.
I have tested the strobes with differnt cables, the Sea & Sea old ones, grey plugs, have been the best.
Inon was good, nauticam i have not had by now, the D&D are better than noname, but not as good as the others....

My problem is the style the Hugyfot "windows" are made.
They have been designed for pop up flashes from the Dslr, but my D500 has none....
So i have tried different led triggers, but still not happy....

Regards,
Wolfgang

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It sounds like the issue here is the LED trigger rather than the strobes. I would suggest contacting Pavel at UW Technics and seeing if he has a circuit board that would allow you to trigger the strobes via an LED bulkhead. I have used this with several different housings and it is very reliable.

 

He is here on Wetpixel (http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showuser=53244)

 

Adam

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Hi Adam,
i have Turtle and Aquatica,
the triggering works, the light output through the "barrier" of the Hugyfot optic connectors is the problem.....
Still working on that.

The Nauticam connectors are screwed in, or? Like Nikonos bulkheads. Do you know what thread they use?
Maybe i can change them complete...

Regards,
Wolfgang

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The UW Technics LED bulkheads are M14 and screw into an available port in the housing like a Nikonos bulkhead.

 

The circuit will need to be attached inside the housing.

 

Using this combination would allow you to avoid using the Hugyfot window.

 

I would contact Pavel and ask for his input. He knows everything about strobes and how to trigger them!

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Hi Adam,
that sounds like a way.
Have found out today that Hugyfot has changed the window for the D850 housing....
Mailed them, we will see if the new ones will fit....
Regards,
Wolfgang

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Hi Wolfgang, I have the same housing as you with a UW Technics board. On receipt my D1 would fire perfectly but I couldnt get my D2 to fire. I finally sent the housing back to Hugyfot who changed a few bits includung I think the plugs that the opticals fit into, I also upgraded the fibre to S&S 50128 and have not had an issue since.

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Hi Wolfgang,

Hugyfot now supplies housings with TTL trigger and new type optical bulkheads, which are purposed for LEDs usage. Optical TTL works fine there. Just ask Hugyfot to send you a pair of new bulkheads and TTL trigger. You can easy install them by yourself.

Also pay attention to your optical cables. YS-D2 strobe has very low input sensitivity. For reliable TTL with YS-D2 better use only 613 core fiber optical cables: Nauticam #26216, Sea&Sea #50128 or #50133, Howshot 613L.

Edited by Pavel Kolpakov

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Hi Pavel,
will ship the housing to Hugyfot and let them change it ;-))

Or is it really stupid simple?

I was writing them nearly a year ago, that the type of optical connector makes no sense....

Have tried a lot of things, and now the Inon z240 work ( mostly )...
But only manual.

Had one of the new S&S cables, but lost it during a dive, where i tried different cables....
Realised it to late...

So changing makes sense.

Will be on a trip in february, then i can tell you afterwards more. Hopefully ;-))

Thanks,
Wolfgang

Edited by trimix125

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will ship the housing to Hugyfot and let them change it

It will be the simplest way. Send the housing to Hugyfot, they will replace necessary parts.

Edited by Pavel Kolpakov

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I have had quite a few questions about heating issues with the Z330.

 

Inon have added a metal heat sync that is exposed to the water.

 

I have been testing battery durations and have been firing the Z330 continuously for around 230-250 flashes at high power. The strobes have been immersed in room temperature water (around 15°C). The strobes have been cool to the touch throughout.

 

I should point out that I have been doing the same with the Retra Flash recently, and they have not been heating up either...

 

I'm very keen to hear more about overheating as it's a big problem with the Inon Z240s in tropical temperatures when you're doing full dumps repetitively (I'm shooting in caves so trying to light a very big space).

 

Adam: Are you able to do the continuous firing tests in 25 degrees C and 30 degrees C? 15 degree water is what I experience in Australia's Tank Cave. In Mexico the caves are 25-27 degrees C and that's a hot spot for cave diving photography.

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Curious if those bulging front lenses will affect the buoyancy compared to a 240.

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I haven't done any scientific testing in terms of buoyancy, but if there is any difference, it is negligible.

 

I have been shooting with a Z240 on one side and a Z330 on the other and it has no effect.

 

The Z330s are now with Alex Mustard and will be heading to the Caribbean at the end of the week.

 

Adam

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Hi Adam,

 

have you carried out the comparison with the RETRA prior to handing them over to Alex?

 

Will you be posting your findings or will there be an overall review once they have been used in The Caribbean?

 

Thanks

Barry

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I'm getting few enquiries via PM about the timing of the release of the review.

 

I will be taking all the strobes to the Red Sea next week and testing them (thanks to Emperor Divers).

 

I would expect that the review will be completed shortly thereafter.

 

All the best

 

Adam

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