Jump to content
gearbow_36218

Show me your GH5, How you trim your buoyancy?

Recommended Posts

I'll upload a picture of mine today. I am a bit negative with my rig set-up. I have two options so far. One with the floats going straight across the top of the camera (4x) other with the floats on the arms. Any of you go from Salt to freshwater. how do you compensate. What do you do for your monitor. can you adjust trim in the water. Adjust arms position to have the camera float in a different orientation?

 

I can't help think a good engineering choice would have been give the option to have buoyancy built into the handles. No? Your thoughts?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have:

 

Between the handles

2x Nauticam 90x170mm

 

Then from each handle

2x 90x220mm floats (so 4 of these)

Reason. Lights are 2.4kg negative!

 

On the WWL-1 I have the buoyancy collar also.

 

It’s a little positive now, waiting to get it dialled in with tyre weights (come in 5G blocks) but double Enders are a good quick easy way to get your housing balance while underwater.

 

Rather have it positive and add to it than negative.

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lights are 2.4kg negative!

What lights do you have that weight 2.4kg wet?!!?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What lights do you have that weight 2.4kg wet?!!?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

4x ScubaLamp V6K Pro (-540g each) + clamps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry to pollute the topic.

Keldan can start to worry at 750Euro/piece.

Can you get spare battery, how much they cost?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry to pollute the topic.

Keldan can start to worry at 750Euro/piece.

Can you get spare battery, how much they cost?

 

PM'd you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You want your buoyancy above the camera so it's not trying to flip to being above it and in line with the centre of gravity in the vertical plane so the camera does not want to tip forward or back. If you have a dome port you probably want to move the buoyancy back a little to counteract the tendency for the port to float up. Be good to see a picture and know how negative you are.

 

A GH5 housing would be similar to an EM-1 MkII housing and displace about 2-3 l of water. If it were 3l then it'd be negative by about 75g in fresh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s really an impressive setup.

The Nauticam arms seems oversized compare to the lights. They looks so tiny!

Overall it looks an heavy system on land. Shouldn’t be easy on the boat, the boat operators might charge you two seat, one for you and one for the camera system. LOL!

 

Did you use the same arms setup with the Keldan lights?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s really an impressive setup.

The Nauticam arms seems oversized compare to the lights. They looks so tiny!

Overall it looks an heavy system on land. Shouldn’t be easy on the boat, the boat operators might charge you two seat, one for you and one for the camera system. LOL!

 

Did you use the same arms setup with the Keldan lights?

No the Keldans were lighter. (Only negative 0.15kg each) these ScubaLamps are -0.540kg each) presume due to the dome providing some lift. So had to go with the jumbo floats. It’s (if my calculator and scales are right) is now positive a little. But as said can dial that in with stick on tyre weights.

 

I need to refine the setup a little for transport and handoff (it’s heavy...)

 

90469928e254c0fd39b0f4b955e1e6f0.jpg

 

But it goes ‘smaller’ once you fold it on itself.

 

Will get some of those quick release ball mounts you can get, so I’m able to remove the lights before handing it off

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you mean the Ikelite handle quick release system? Can it be adapted to the Nauticam?

Actually it would be nice!

 

Can you explain what is your tyre weight system?

 

Cheer

Claude

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you mean the Ikelite handle quick release system? Can it be adapted to the Nauticam?

 

I'm thinking these :

 

https://www.carbonarm.com/en/quick-release/34-ball-to-ball-arm-with-quick-release-0806808286185.html

 

Can you explain what is your tyre weight system?

 

 

At your local garage, they have to balance your car wheels, they use stick on weights, in 5g or 10g blocks. You can use these anywhere on your camera housing, arms etc to get the weighting just right

 

l_tw560.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Rich!

 

Great ideas here!

 

Where will you put the quick release? At the housing or lights side?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think...(still thinking... :)

 

the two lights in to the triple clamp, with one end of the quick release system in there too, then the other end of the quick release on the end of the last float arm (it does mean the need for yet another normal clamp to attach it thou...)

 

But maybe having it on the housing side, and having both float arms and lights removable might be better...

 

Will order a couple and have a play I think..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Both way as there conveniences.

 

Some thought about the system: I’ve at there website, it seems to have a ‘click’ system that need a push to the button for the release. I’m just wondering if it’s not too risk. If you accidentally push the release button underwater when manipulating the lights...bye bye the lights!

Hopefully the release spring is not too soft.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you accidentally push the release button underwater when manipulating the lights...bye bye the lights!

Hopefully the release spring is not too soft.

Good point! Will await their delivery and have a look

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just lurking and learning...but have a question? With the double lights on each arm aren't you creating a huge hotspot? Thanks, Robotten

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe everyone knows already but for the one who don't, here is the link of Inon website where they list all their products (and more) underwater weight:

http://www.inon.jp/products/armsystem/weight_table.html

 

Very useful to estimate you buoyancy need.

 

Just as suggestion if it doesn't exisit somewhere else, Wetpixel could open a section where we could list all underwater camera/photo equipments underwater weight.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think...(still thinking... :)

 

the two lights in to the triple clamp, with one end of the quick release system in there too, then the other end of the quick release on the end of the last float arm (it does mean the need for yet another normal clamp to attach it thou...)

 

But maybe having it on the housing side, and having both float arms and lights removable might be better...

 

Will order a couple and have a play I think..

Less thinking ang more DIVING
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good looking set up! Man...that looks like some serious flotation! I'm heading out for my GH5 inaugural trip in 3 weeks to Cozumel. I have the Ultralight foam sections for flotation. Guess I'm gonna have to bring some extras if the unit is that negative.

 

I'm kicking myself for not seeing the obvious with regards to your dual lighting per arm set up. I was thinking If I wanted to have both my strobes and vid lights I would have to run 2 arms off my 3 way clamp. When in reality I can just put them side by side like yours...........DUH!!!!! LOL Thanks for that!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is probably not the most elegant setup, but the rig is neutral in the water and massive enough to give pretty stable footage.

 

post-42872-0-39714800-1524975562_thumb.jpg

post-42872-0-19066500-1524976184_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is probably not the most elegant setup, but the rig is neutral in the water and massive enough to give pretty stable footage.

 

That’s the key, being neutral - does matter if it looks weird. That’s the only issue with these ‘slim’ housings compared to gates and the like. They are neutral to begin with - we have to slap on all sorts of float arms.

 

Do you find the float arms give you enough separation to avoid backscatter?

 

Love the computer mount. That’s nice and easy to see.

 

How have you got the rear configured? Looks like it comes out flat (towards you) ?

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s the key, being neutral - does matter if it looks weird. That’s the only issue with these ‘slim’ housings compared to gates and the like. They are neutral to begin with - we have to slap on all sorts of float arms.

 

Do you find the float arms give you enough separation to avoid backscatter?

 

Love the computer mount. That’s nice and easy to see.

 

How have you got the rear configured? Looks like it comes out flat (towards you) ?

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, there's enough separation to avoid backscatter with subjects within a meter of the lens. The lights aren't really strong enough to make a difference with objects further away. If the object is closer than about 30 cm, I need to turn the lights inwards to light it properly. But it's worth noting that the GATES GT14s have a 90 degree angle, whereas the V6Ks have a wider angle around 120 degrees so they need to be further out.

 

I've got three arms with stix floats rigged up at the back (connected to the tripod-mount ball arms) to provide a place to store my wet diopeter and Weefine ring light combination. The 9 stix jumbo floats basically render that setup neutral, so the whole rig is neutral with the ring light or without it (if I'm doing a wide-angle only dive). I also find that having the rig extend at the back like this helps to add a bit of mass and roll stability.

 

(As a side note, I have 4 V6Ks in my possession currently. Two of them together are not quite as powerful as a single GT14 (maybe about 75% as powerful). I don't know if this is because the wider beam angle distributes the illumination over a wider area or because the 12000 lumen rating is overstated or a combination of the two, but I guess you still get what you pay for at the end of the day. I haven't compared the V6Ks to the Keldan lights directly though, so maybe that's a more even battle.

post-42872-0-16585500-1525001648_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Two of them together are not quite as powerful as a single GT14 (maybe about 75% as powerful). I don't know if this is because the wider beam angle distributes the illumination over a wider area or because the 12000 lumen rating is overstated or a combination of the two, but I guess you still get what you pay for at the end of the day. I haven't compared the V6Ks to the Keldan lights directly though, so maybe that's a more even battle.

 

I think that works out, about about right then :)

14000lm at 90' gives you a lux reading of 7600lx at 1m

12000lm at 120' gives you a lux reading of 3800lx at 1m (which given two light sources and the not perfect 1+1 adding up of light photons) gives you what you got i guess.

 

For the money, they are an absolute steal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, there's enough separation to avoid backscatter with subjects within a meter of the lens. The lights aren't really strong enough to make a difference with objects further away. If the object is closer than about 30 cm, I need to turn the lights inwards to light it properly. But it's worth noting that the GATES GT14s have a 90 degree angle, whereas the V6Ks have a wider angle around 120 degrees so they need to be further out.

 

14000 lumen not enough for objects further than 1 meter away in clear water? Wonder how much light we really need then...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sponsors

Advertisements



×
×
  • Create New...