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dave@immersed

Panasonic 8-18mm, which dome?

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That second shot. The one with the batfish(?) from below.

Wow.

 

I agree. Fabulous shot!

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I agree. Fabulous shot!

Thanks!

In the mangroves, Raja Ampat.

(and coming from saltwater crocodile inhabited northern Australia as I do, hanging around under the shady mangroves is not something that I enjoy or did much of!)

Here's another one, same fish, sub-adult longfin batfish.

https://immersed.net.au/ON-LOCATION/Raja-Ampat/4/caption

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I also had the opportunity to take the 8-18mm in the 7" dome last week.

Generally I preferred to shoot at f/8 to preserve centre sharpness at the expense of corners instead of going to f/11

 

This image is a good example to see how the lens and dome to across the frame as the shot is close

 

48220975842_a3ff935453_k.jpgSchool vs School by Interceptor121, on Flickr

 

There are other shots in the rest of the album including a split

 

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmESSsBK

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Nice work, great exposures on those shots.

Thanks Dave. The 8-18mm is on the wreck shots the rest are fisheye and the portraits are with the 60mm except the cardinal fish and the scorpion fish that are with the 12-60 in the same dome

I think the 12-60mm performance with this dome is exceptional

 

 

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I think the 12-60mm performance with this dome is exceptional

Me too, very happy with it, nice for portraits, sharks, and when you wish you had your macro lens on...

How do you find the buoyancy of the dome? More of an issue with video.

I've drilled a bolt hole in the "petal" and securely fix a small lead weight, which helps the tendency to lift at the front in landscape mode. Lead weight is approx 250g, slightly more would be better.

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Me too, very happy with it, nice for portraits, sharks, and when you wish you had your macro lens on...

How do you find the buoyancy of the dome? More of an issue with video.

I've drilled a bolt hole in the "petal" and securely fix a small lead weight, which helps the tendency to lift at the front in landscape mode. Lead weight is approx 250g, slightly more would be better.

The housing and camera with the dome is 100 grams positive however as you point out the dome is super positive and twists the camera making it almost impossible to put it on the tripod legs

For video handheld this is not too much of an issue as long as the rig is not positive and you dont let go

I believe a solution like you suggest os perfect

One problem is how easy this was to scratch when I was inside the Thistlegorm I had small dents and I polished it twice on the field so I recommend having a kit at all times

 

 

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The housing and camera with the dome is 100 grams positive however as you point out the dome is super positive and twists the camera making it almost impossible to put it on the tripod legs

For video handheld this is not too much of an issue as long as the rig is not positive and you dont let go

I believe a solution like you suggest os perfect

One problem is how easy this was to scratch when I was inside the Thistlegorm I had small dents and I polished it twice on the field so I recommend having a kit at all times

Yes the dome is a bit vulnerable and I've had to use my micro mesh kit during surface intervals... :blush:

Here's my weight system. My usual WA setup is pretty much neutral with this weight attached and although slightly "dome-up" is easy to hold horizontal with little effort.

post-78462-0-38855200-1562577681_thumb.jpg

post-78462-0-62659400-1562577769_thumb.jpg

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Yes the dome is a bit vulnerable and I've had to use my micro mesh kit during surface intervals... :blush:

Here's my weight system. My usual WA setup is pretty much neutral with this weight attached and although slightly "dome-up" is easy to hold horizontal with little effort.

attachicon.gifdome weight-1.jpg

attachicon.gifdome weight-2.jpg

Does the screw not reflect? I would duct tape it. Or maybe develop a magnet style weight unsure if possible!

 

 

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Does the screw not reflect? I would duct tape it. Or maybe develop a magnet style weight unsure if possible!

 

Screw head is painted matt black, although it needs a repaint after being taken off the dome and rolling around in my luggage after the last trip...

Haven't noticed any reflection.

I do remove the weight regularly as it traps salt water and is a hotspot for corrosion.

I used an enamel spray paint on the screw, but I use this artists acrylic "carbon black" paint on the white writing on the lens itself to prevent reflections inside the dome, works well:

post-78462-0-21700900-1562629417_thumb.jpg

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This has been an interesting thread as I am looking at getting the Pana 8-18 for above water use and was curious as to how it would go underwater.

I currently shoot mainly macro with an Oly 60mm macro lens in a Nauticam housing plus a +10 diopter with Inon S2000 strobes which has been fine. Occasionally I do also a bit of CFWA with a Pana 8mm fisheye in a small dome port using the same strobes which are OK for CFWA work.

To do some serious WA stuff means a big capital outlay, as in addition to the AUD1200 lens, there is AUD1200 for the 7 inch dome port and zoom gear plus AUD1800 for a couple of Inon Z330 strobes. That's around AUD4200, whew!!

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I think you should see the strobe upgrade as a separate step
The S2000 are great for macro and very close work but lack power for bigger scenes.
I would upgrade the strobes as a priority and leave the 8-18mm aside.
It’s an interesting lens but I would prioritise a 14-42mm and WWL-1 with a macro port more flexible option and easier to shoot.


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