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I do not use the power zoom lens because it does not leverage dual IS on the GH5 body. The PZ has a nice smooth zooming action but the 14-42MKII is sharper this is the lens I use and I have had them both I sold the PZ. If you had a BMPCC 4K or a GH5s with no stabilization than maybe the PZ is better

 

In terms of macro it is not a macro lens you need to use diopters

 

https://interceptor121.com/2019/03/29/macro-video-with-the-panasonic-gh5/

 

Once you have the right wet lenses most is covered maybe you need a 60mm for specific situations where you either need the working distance or have a super tiny target

 

Checking out that blog post. You use the double diopter holder and do you also carry the WWL-1 lens on a bayonet mount holder? Or the diopter dive is for macro specific dives?

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Checking out that blog post. You use the double diopter holder and do you also carry the WWL-1 lens on a bayonet mount holder? Or the diopter dive is for macro specific dives?

 

The WWL-1 is a big beast and when I use it it is fixed there. I use the bayonet mount as I sometimes use filter between the port and the lens

 

For a macro site I would not have the WWL-1 and no bayonet just dual flip holder

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The WWL-1 is a big beast and when I use it it is fixed there. I use the bayonet mount as I sometimes use filter between the port and the lens

 

For a macro site I would not have the WWL-1 and no bayonet just dual flip holder

 

 

Hey I would like to purchase this. Would you mind doing me up a shopping list including your macro flip stuff and that filter you're talking about?

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So far I have:

 

 

-

Panasonic 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 ASPH MEGA OIS

 

Nauticam N85 Marcro Flat Port 35 with 67mm threads.

Nauticam WWL-1 Wet Wide Lens 130 degs 67MM WetMate lens

Nauticam Buoyancy Collar for WWL-1 lens

Nautican Hard Cap for WWL-1

-ReeNet Subsee Magnifier +5
Nauticam CMC-2 Compact Macro ConverterMacro
-Saga M67 Double Flip

Nauticam M67 to Bayonet Mount Converter For Wet Lenses.

 

Nauticam Zoom Gear For Panasonic 14-42MM Lens This is actualy the wrong zoom gear for the Macro 35 port. I would have to order from Nauticam direct. I need 36057 P1442II-Z correct.

 

I'm considering just ordering the subsea +5 to start and droping the dual flip as i already have a single M67 flip for my OLY 60mm macro and the CMC-1. I can just transfer the flip i have from the Macro port 65 to the macro 35 port and switch out the CMC-1 for the Subsee +5 no?

 

That should still cover me for most situations on the medium to close up range.

 

You mentioned a Filter that you sometime use between the Macro 35 port and wet lens or you sometimes take the wetlens off and put a filter while shooting medium close up subject through flat port?

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The 12-35mm doesn’t / isn’t supported behind a flat port unfortunately. As it would be an amazing lens also.

 

The lens you want is the :

 

“Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 II ASPH OIS”.

- Be careful as you could end up with the old variant, if you don’t specify the Mk II part.

 

With the correct corresponding zoom gear:

 

#36057 - PANASONIC LUMIX G VARIO 14-42MM F3.5-5.6 II ASPH MEGA O.I.S

 

The filter that sits between the WWL1 and the Macro35 is from Keldan. There are 3 variants depending on depth

 

b518a1ec915ce3f0bde32080c852039e.jpg

 

Bear in mind the WWL1 I don’t think will work with a flip adaptor - hence why Nauticam developed their bayonet so you are right to get that, however you might want to get the bayonet adaptor for the CMC2 so you can use it on the same dive as the WWL1 - and I personally would also get the CMC1 instead of the ReefNet+5 due to its deeper rear mount which get the rear element closer to the flat port.

 

If going down that route, have a look then at the Nauticam bayout holders for their strobe or buoyancy arms to hold your wet lenses while diving.

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RIchard does the keldan filter sit between the port and the filter even a bayonet mount is used?

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RIchard does the keldan filter sit between the port and the filter even a bayonet mount is used?

Yes. There is a slight groove on the rear of the WWL, where the filter fits :-)

 

 

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Re Reefnet Subsee vs CMC-1 they are totally different lenses

The reason why I use the subsee is because the 14-42 lens stops focussing at around 10-11” from the port. You now have a wide area of work and if you go with the CMC-2 you jump to 3-4” from the subject

So the lenses you need must be weaker either the subsee 5 or the inon 165. The optical quality of the subsee is far better than the inon so this is what I use, the gap from the port with the flip is irrelevant at 6-10” working distance

Once the subset stops focussing the next lens is the CMC-2

Everything is fully explained on my blog in the post macro rig

 

Re Keldan the filter is set up on land and frankly removing the WWL-1 in water to put it on a arm is impossible once you fit the buoyancy collar so I have not invested in the bayonet mounts for the close up lenses because they are bulky and heavy

 

 

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Re Reefnet Subsee vs CMC-1 they are totally different lenses

 

Sorry my mistake - I had assumed the CMC-1 was similar to the ReefNet. GearBow - ignore me on that part! :)

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I wrote a comprehensive article on how to choose a close up lens

 

https://interceptor121.com/2019/02/01/how-to-choose-the-best-close-up-lens-for-your-underwater-mft-rig/

 

The short version is that 2.8x 4.5x are not true they depend on the camera lens port you use and actually focal length of the close up lens is what should be used however only inon provides this information, the second best option is to provide diopters in water that can be converted in focal lenght worst option is to say the magnification which provides a completely misleading and disappointing experience to most judging from the number of close up lens that are going on sale on the classified section...

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<snip> frankly removing the WWL-1 in water to put it on a arm is impossible once you fit the buoyancy collar so I have not invested in the bayonet mounts for the close up lenses because they are bulky and heavy

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I disagree. I have the bayonet mounts on my arms and the buoyancy collar fitted to to my WWl-1 and have no problems at all fitting or removing it underwater. I will do that multiple times on a single dive pretty much every time I get in the water with it. I'm not really sure why you think that it is "impossible".

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Posted (edited)

The answer is specific to the GH5 there is no room around the lens to manouvre and with gloves literally the finger does not even fit in
Maybe you have very long thin fingers ir a different camera where you can take the lens off. It was possible with the rx100 and the gx7 using ultralight tray with the gh5 and the nauticam handle too much hard work for me glad it works for you

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Edited by Interceptor121

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Sorry, but I am using a GH-5 in a Nauticam housing. Frankly, I wish that I had long thin fingers - it would make playing my bass much easier, but in fact, I actually have fairly small hands. I did the the extension for the bayonet release that Nauticam sells, which does help a bit.

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Sorry, but I am using a GH-5 in a Nauticam housing. Frankly, I wish that I had long thin fingers - it would make playing my bass much easier, but in fact, I actually have fairly small hands. I did the the extension for the bayonet release that Nauticam sells, which does help a bit.

which extension?

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I got another one of those extensions to go on the bayonet holder so its easy also to remove from the holder too

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Posted (edited)

This is really not funny. Before my last trip to Tiger Beach I bought a second hand unit from Reef Photo in Fort Lauderdale that came together with buoyancy collar and hard cap

 

When I got back to the hotel I checked and realised the buoyancy collar was mounted incorrectly and the hood was misaligned which would result in vignette so I had to disassemble the item and put it back together. In the box there was this little red and black plastic piece that I could not work out what was for as it was not on anything realised the lens with the collar (and without what I know now was the extension) could not be removed

I was testing some of the keldan filters for keldan actually and as I could not remove the lens in water without removing the collar and I wanted to keep it on had to change my approach to the tests and ended up only once taking the filter off in water as without this extension it is actually impossible to take the thing off. The funny thing is that the guy who shot the video on how to install the collar was the one selling me the lens with the collar incorrectly installed. My fault for not checking his video lol

At the end the test results had not changed but what I could have accomplished in 3 minutes took 2 dives

I now have to hope I did not throw away the name red and black plastic item that was not attached to the lens! Great customer service I would say

 

Still I do not fancy the bayonet holders and their bulk and it would have not changed my approach to macro and the flip diopter as I do not use buoyancy arms anymore so have nowhere where to put the holders

Edited by Interceptor121

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Ahhhh, OK now that makes sense. Yes, without that little piece, it would be much more difficult to remove the lens with the collar on. I can imagine your frustration finding that out after the fact! I also hope that you still have it stashed away somewhere.

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Ahhhh, OK now that makes sense. Yes, without that little piece, it would be much more difficult to remove the lens with the collar on. I can imagine your frustration finding that out after the fact! I also hope that you still have it stashed away somewhere.

 

Well I had to take off the keldan filter and I can tell you it took me good 5 minutes while surrounded by 4 bull sharks> I will check when am back home if it is still there

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I got another one of those extensions to go on the bayonet holder so its easy also to remove from the holder too

 

 

What extension please?

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First macro dive. I was a bit of a mess really but have loads of ideas for my next Macro dive. using the Oly-60mm macro. Dropping my FPS down really helped things in the shutter department. I think most of these shots were at 1600 ISO f20-22 I shot at All-I 422/10bit 400mbts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMXQp9O_es4&feature=youtu.be

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Looks good. Maybe a bit on the bright side for my eyes, I‘d probably scale down Midtones a bit in post.

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Looks good. Maybe a bit on the bright side for my eyes, I‘d probably scale down Midtones a bit in post.

The 60mm really performs poorly at f/22 and why go to ISO 1600?

Take out 2 stops of ISO and open the aperture to f/11 and the results will be better

Looks also a bit overexposed so would dim the lights

 

 

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