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Larry C

Modifying Fiberoptic cable?

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I've found a nice coiled simplex cable that I'm planning to use with Divervision Sea & Sea type cable ends. They come with LC and SC ends on them. Is there a way to remove these safely, or should I just cut them off and buy FO stripping tool to get rid of the insulation on the last inch or so? Anyone tried this? Tired of $100 Nauticam cables.

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I don't think you want to cut the ends off as they are polished to enable as much light transfer as possible.

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Larry, I just cut a Toslink cable with a pair of scissors. No problem. I tested the cable on an Inon 240 and it activated just fine.

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Larry, I just cut a Toslink cable with a pair of scissors. No problem. I tested the cable on an Inon 240 and it activated just fine.

Thanks. What did you do about the insulator and kevlar fibers?

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Thanks. What did you do about the insulator and kevlar fibers?

On the Toslink cable there’s only a thinish plastic coating which cuts easily with scissors. No kevlar fibres.

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Super easy. Just cut and flame polish the ends (hold a lighter to it briefly!)

 

What's the coiled cable you've found? I've been using straight cables for a while, tried coiling one once with boiling water and it lost too much light transmission.

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I too am looking for stranded fiber optic cable, preferaby coiled. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

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Super easy. Just cut and flame polish the ends (hold a lighter to it briefly!)

 

What's the coiled cable you've found? I've been using straight cables for a while, tried coiling one once with boiling water and it lost too much light transmission.

Available on eBay and Amazon. Advertised as 9', but coiled to about 18". 3mm sheath, simplex cable with kevlar. $9.95 each. The ends cut off nicely. It was tough to strip without a FO tool, but the ends I got from divervision are too small for the 3mm sheath and too big without it. They seem pretty tough. I didn't break the cable while messing with it. Shredded one of the boots trying to expand it to get the sheath through and still couldn't. Thinking about molding my own ends. The e-bay contact was out and couldn't ship, but said they could make them with any ends. Wonder if there's something available that would fit in the Sea & Sea size holes.

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Hi,
what about these:
unterwasserkamera.at
D&D dual slave plugs Sea&Sea size
or
D&D Sea&Sea slave Winkelstecker 90°
With this i do my cables.

Sorry just using an Apple but normally Windows, dont know how to copy....
Regards,
Wolfgang

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I've been using the single one (the second on your list), Wolfgang, and it works well with Toslink cable.

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Larry: Use these for S&S ends.

https://reefphoto.com/products/inon-double-hole-fiber-optic-plug-rubber-bush-plug

Saves you the trouble of molding your own.

Get some multiple core fiber from industrial fiber optics ($7/meter)

Wind it around a wooden dowel, put in water bring to boiling then cool.

Perfect coiled fiber cable for less than $20.

Bill

 

If you are not trying to use an LED to trigger but using a flash, then any 1mm fiber will do and bring the price down by half

Edited by bvanant

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Hi,

what about these:

unterwasserkamera.at

D&D dual slave plugs Sea&Sea size

or

D&D Sea&Sea slave Winkelstecker 90°

With this i do my cables.

 

Sorry just using an Apple but normally Windows, dont know how to copy....

Regards,

Wolfgang

 

These look the same as the ones I have from Divervision. Haven't tried the double connector yet. The other one, the hole is too small for my 3mm cable and the boot came apart when I tried to ream it with various methods. I might have to try different cables. I was hoping these would work, since they're sturdy and pre-coiled.

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If you freeze the rubber stopper with LN2 you can drill it. Coiling your own cheap FO cable is pretty simple and pretty cheap

BVA

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