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owfotograaf

Inon z330 blocking on / off

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Oooh, that's brilliant. I borrowed a set of Z330s from bvanant this week and I kept knocking them into Full mode. Why does that mode exist?? Just make an on/off switch and a power setting, and trigger whether you see an optical or wire trigger. This hack might sell me a set. :)

 

(I'm coming from Z220s which don't have the Full mode. I guess Z240s do and people seem to get along with those. Still stupid.)

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Posted (edited)

I find this plastic part a good idea: I have used now two Z330 for 10 days, just normal diving in the sea (dry suit with dry gloves however) and had problems with the two small buttons (one for preflashes in TTL mode and one for the (in my opinion, dispensable) focus light. I switched these buttons on and off unintentionally (mostly in- and out) and it always took time until I noticed what was wrong. Even with naked fingers it may happen, but on the other side one probably becomes accustomed to these buttons and after more dives I will forget about them. These buttons are not ergonomic, too small and instead of just turning this strange "in" and "out" positioning combined with turning... :nea:

 

Regarding the reason of the "Full" position of the "mode" switch I believe this is not such a bad idea: it is probably to prevent overheating and burning out of the strobes (I had YS-D2 previously and overheating was a big problem). It means in manual mode one can regulate the intensity up to the maximum of 50% power with the "intensity" switch and only when switching the "Mode" tial to "Full" one gets 100%. Same way I was using the YS-D2 (use 100% only rarely to prevent overheating), but unintentional use of 100% occurs more seldom in practice as another switch has to be turned...

 

Wolfgang

Edited by Architeuthis

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Posted (edited)

So in "Manual" mode the power goes from 0-50% and "Full" the power goes up to 100%? The power setting didn't seem to be doing much for me in full mode besides broiling nudibranchs. Guess I should RTFM.

 

[edit] I can't find the PDF manual online, but this review suggests that full mode is full dump with no power setting. Maybe if the switches were not so easy to turn it would be better. Perhaps this would improve with use as the switches get crusty. Though I also got the focus light stuck in the on position a few times.

 

http://www.divephotoguide.com/underwater-photography-special-features/article/macro-underwater-photography-inon-z330-strobe/

Edited by synthetic

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Posted (edited)

Hi synthetic,

 

I did not test out empirically, but here is what the manual says:

"Main mode switch"(= left upper switch): => "Full": Strobe always makes full dump

=> "M": Manual flash mode other than FULL amount (positions from "-0.5" to "-6").

 

In "M" mode the right upper switch can be turned from -0.5 to -6 EVs. So it is actually 71% (2^-0.5) to 1.6% (2^-6) of full power - in case the flash does really what these numbers imply...

 

The two big switches are o.k. to operate, but the two small ones sometimes change position unintentionally, when I change the settings on one of the two big switches (at least with gloves): a tool to block both small buttons (focus light to "off" and preflash cancellation to "off") would be perfect for my needs...

 

 

 

Wolfgang

Edited by Architeuthis

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