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Hi, simple question. I am considering upgrading from one strobe (D2) to 2 strobes. Question is, do the strobes have to be the same? I am considering to buy a D1, would it be worth it or due to power differences it can become a hassle? Other low (very low hence attractive) cost option is an old S&S 120 which comes at 135 eur. However, it only has full or 1/2 power settings, may this be problematic to use with my other strobe? 

 

Other option, close to my place a guy is selling 2 inon d2000. Would it be better for me to sell my strobe and switch to those 2, though less powerful? 

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This is a question that comes over and over probably worth writing a sticky

There are several dimensions to consider if you want to be precise 

1. Light temperature different strobes have generally small differences. Will you notice it? If you are picky yes. 

2. Beam angle. It makes it harder to shoot wide angle with different angle of coverage 

3. Power you need to adjust a relative difference between the two strobes and the control may not have the scale you need

Plus many other details that I won’t bore you with.

ask yourself how many serious or professional photographers have you seen with two different strobes?

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I totally understand. 

 

1. Is this noticeable even with almost similar strobes, like D1 and D2? 

2. Ok, but this can be checked before buying it. 

3. That is the most serious issue in my opinion. 

Concerning your last question, none ;)

So would it be better two less powerful strobes such as the d2000 or z240, compared to one D2 plus something else? 

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Interceptor makes good points

Soon after I moved to a DSLR underwater, I was using an Inon Z220 which I had added to an SB105 I'd bought to use with a compact (this is back in the late 1990s). Yeah the combination worked but having to use two differing systems was far from ideal. Much better if you have two strobes which work the same - you then get used to one system and one set of controls and it become far more intuitive to use. Spares, accessories, batteries etc etc also are easier to manage.

 

So, I think you are right: I'd suggest going with the Inon (especially Z240 if you can find them) or the new Z330. 

 

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The YS-D2 let alone reliability issues is an excellent product 

Whilst I am fearful they will fail the ergonomics of my two YS-D2 is so much better than my Z240 that have many confusing controls

Inon had made an effort removing the auto mode but the full power as separate position and the magnet in or out or the operation of the focus light are pure pain

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If I may, the Sea&Sea YS-D1 has a well documented and bad track record, many failures, and on this basis alone is best avoided

The YS-D2J has a good track record, but may be prone to overheating when fired repeatedly and fast.

The Inon Z240's are confusing to use, and their magnets are a pain, as noted above by Interceptor121. My two Z240's went dim (half intensity) in the midst of a Raja Ampat dive trip on a small boat, with no recourse.  Probably bad magnets.  

The Inon D2000 strobes are a bit less bright but quite reliable. They are also a good buy. Unfortunately they also have magnets.  It is a good idea to learn on land how to open and inspect the Inon magnets: The push button assembly unscrews for inspection, spare magnets and units may be available but I have not purchased one.

Currently I travel with two YS-D2J's and a D2000  for backup. 

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The YS-D1 recycles a bit slower than the YS-D2J and doesn't have a tone, or lighted back. Also the knobs on them are small and easily moved out of position. That said, I have 4 that just keep on going. I have used 1 YSD2 and a YSD1 together and they shoot ok, but the difference in recycle time sometimes screws up shots.

The D2000 has quite a bit less power and would not match up.

Jack

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Just to add a view on Inon and reliability, I've had a Z220 and 4x Z240s over the last 15-16 years and have never had a problem with any of them. I've never even looked at the magnets once having put them in place.

The manual is not helpful but there are some very good online guides as to how best to use them (eg Reef Photo). Like so many gadgets and gizmos, once you get the hang of them, they're not hard to use. 

But, hey, you pays your money and you takes your chance.... :rolleyes:

I wouldn't hesitate to buy Inons again. 

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37 minutes ago, Kraken de Mabini said:

If I may, the Sea&Sea YS-D1 has a well documented and bad track record, many failures, and on this basis alone is best avoided 

The YS-D2J has a good track record, but may be prone to overheating when fired repeatedly and fast.

The Inon Z240's are confusing to use, and their magnets are a pain, as noted above by Interceptor121. My two Z240's went dim (half intensity) in the midst of a Raja Ampat dive trip on a small boat, with no recourse.  Probably bad magnets.  

The Inon D2000 strobes are a bit less bright but quite reliable. They are also a good buy. Unfortunately they also have magnets.  It is a good idea to learn on land how to open and inspect the Inon magnets: The push button assembly unscrews for inspection, spare magnets and units may be available but I have not purchased one.

Currently I travel with two YS-D2J's and a D2000  for backup. 

I think you meant "If I may, the Sea&Sea YS-D2 has a well documented and bad track record, many failures, and on this basis alone is best avoided "

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Posted (edited)

Ok thanks a lot. I have a black D2, might consider to go with a D2J if I am able to find one, or 2 z240, whichever comes first ;)

Edited by lbedogni

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If you only had the supplied manual the INON would be confusing, but the plain English guide from from Reef makes sense of it all.  I only ever shoot manual with camera system with manual strobe capability.  That means I need to do the same thing every time:  Magnet in and main control knob to manual and all thatI need to adjust  is the output on the dial.  The other thing is whatever you buy give it a good soak in freshwater each and every dive.  And work the magnet buttons while in water to displace the salt water. 

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