Nikon D800

[fifthjoker 0]

I am currently using a Nikon D800 with a Nauticam housing. If anyone has a similar setup and would like to share any tips and/or tricks, I would appreciate it.

[phxazcraig 123]

Strobes or ambient?

If ambient, try using manual mode with auto-ISO, but put an upper limit on the ISO as low as you can get away with.   Perhaps 2000, perhaps less.  Depends on circumstances.  If shooting with flash realize that the camera will meter for ambient and stick you with possible the highest ISO in your settings and the flash will then be too strong.

If shooting macro with strobes, set manual everything, including ISO set to base value for maximum dynamic range.   Set shutter speed to 1/160th, perhaps 1/200th, but keep within your working sync speed.   If shooting the 105vr set aperture to F16 as a starting point.   If you are far away from a flat object you can get by with F14, but if close up to a shrimp or christmas tree worm and you want depth of field, you'll be trying F22 and sometimes higher.   Play with your strobe settings and be aware than orientation of the strobes is critical.  I have mine (YS-D1) set to one stop below maximum power.  If I move closer than usual, or have white sand or silver fish in the frame I lower the power.  If I back up a bit, I re-aim the strobes and sometimes set max power for a shot or two.

Craig

[fifthjoker 0]

Cool, thank you Craig.

[AndyBarker 6]

Hi 

always look to see were the light is coming from, I always start f11, 60th the check the blues & saturation,

keep strobe power down so you don't over expose, I try to shoot slightly under exposed, you can do a little correction in PS,

slightly harder when over exposed, I will always adjust shutter & aperture when I'm shooting, then I can pick the image thats best.

just keep shooting & learning,

regards

Andy.

[phxazcraig 123]

To summarize a bit that we've discussed in some private messages for the benefit of this thread:

I shoot wide angle with a 16-35 and Nauticam 230mm dome port on a 90mm extension.   Why 90mm?  I do not know, but that's what Bluewater Photo recommended for me in November 2015 when I bought it.  I just looked on their web site and see that 'recommended accessories' for both Zen and Nauticam 230mm ports specifies a 70mm extension.  I'm wondering if more recent experience led them to have me try the 90mm.    I'll ask them.   One thing about the 90mm extension - it works great to hold all 6 of my strobe arm clamps plus the one holding my focus light when packing.

Bluewater also recommended a +2 diopter filter for the 16-35vr behind the dome port.  I never noticed it making any difference at all, and I was always disappointed with the corners.  I always cropped the image to mitigate corner issues, and I shot a bit wide to allow for it in post.

In March 2019 I tried the 77mm Sea and Sea Internal Correction Lens, and it makes a world of obvious difference.  I'll not shoot without it again.

Here is an F8 shot, uncropped (I think)

[ChrisRoss 150]

Interesting, no idea why they would recommend a +2 diopter, it's mainly used with older wide zooms that don't focus close enough to focus on the virtual image with the dome.  A diopter is a different lens to the S&S lens, the diopter allows the lens to focus closer while the S&S lens is a field flattener- it brings the edges if the field into focus without impacting the centre.  

Interesting too about the extension, Nauticam's port charts(linked from their website) still recommend a 90mm extension for the 230mm dome (this is the Nikon 16-35, right?)  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ADK0utEboUHDMCZYC4IIqVYacyVvDJ17/view

[fifthjoker 0]

Yes it is the 16-35

[DocTock 7]

@fifthjoker - I've been shooting a D800 since 2013 when I moved from a D90.

Macro - awesome with the 105mm Nikon micro lens and add fun/ frustration with wet lenses (SubSee +5, +10, Nauticam SMC, etc) - note: a flip adapter on the front makes life much easier for me than trying to un/screw diopter on/ off.

Wide Angle - limited only by ability and strobe power. I personally shoot Sigma 15 behind a 230mm, Nikon 16-35 with the Sea&Sea corrector dry lens/diopter, and my favorite, a Nikonus 13mm RS converted for use with modern DSLR/ Nauticam housing.

Noted re: 90mm extension: I had several conversations with @phxazcraig and ended up contacting the folk at Reef Photo about this, as initially I only had 70mm extension. The earlier Nauticam lens/port charts suggested 70mm with the 230mm dome (when using the 16-35) - testing over the years now suggests improvement with 90mm extension.

 

I feel comfortable dropping to ISO 640 before really starting to notice artifact when enlarging.

 

 

Edited November 22, 2019 by DocTock

[phxazcraig 123]

On 11/22/2019 at 1:19 PM, DocTock said:

- I'Il feel comfortable dropping to ISO 640 before really starting to notice artifact when enlarging.

 

I've tried anywhere from ISO 200 to 2000 at times with my D810 and D850.   I certainly see noise and loss of clarity at 2000, but it's the loss of dynamic range that kills my appetite for high ISO much earlier,.   I do so much processing of my shots that I quickly miss the ability to both tame a highlight and boost a shadow, sometimes dramatically so.   I love shooting at ISO 64 because the files are so ... rich and nice to work with.   Reminds me of shooting Ektar 25 medium format and seeing how rich and deep the prints were, compared to ISO 200 standard print film.