Looking for somewhere to dive in COVID times: St Maarten

[TimG 62]

I have the good fortune to be the partner of someone who has been seconded to work on the island of St Maarten in the Caribbean.   Much though I loved our Amsterdam home, the thought of tropical sunshine in the Caribbean with a COVID winter approaching was a blessing. We’ve been here three months now.

I’ve logged almost 2000 dives all over the world: UK to Australia, Philippines, Indonesia (including running a dive operation in the Lembeh Straits), lots of Caribbean islands, the Red Sea, the US, Bonaire loads of times. St Maarten, or St Martin on the French side, is turning out to be a delightful dive surprise.

Diving here is boat-based. If you are staying on the south (Dutch) side of the island dive sites are usually about a 15 minute fast ride. Conditions can be slightly choppy but nothing that would bother the majority of Wetpixelers. Current and surge are occasional but not common. Site depths are usually in the 14-20m (45’-60’) range so perfect photo depths. Many sites have fish in abundance. Reef sharks and stingrays are on most dives; turtles on many. Water temperature so far is usually about 28-29C (82-84F); air temperature about 30-32C (86-90F). Slightly colder in December I'm told.

Dive sites drop nicely into either the macro or wide-angle category. For macro, sandy/gravelly bottoms and low coral outcrops with Pedersen and Spotted cleaner shrimp, Flamingo tongues, jawfish, yellowline arrow crabs (brilliant snoot country). Wide-angle with many small wrecks, coral encrusted with schools of hanging fish and colourful hard corals.  Some very interesting and varied reef topography with swim-throughs, passageways and gullies. Reef cracks with life in them. A very broad range of Caribbean reef species. It is way better than many of the island I have visited including, gasp, Bonaire.

As for dive operators, I’ve been diving with Ocean Explorers [https://stmaartendiving.com]. Long established on the island, run by a husband and wife (Jef and Lu). Hugely friendly, accommodating and, with Jef a photographer himself, definitely photographer-friendly. He’ll do his best to pick the site for your lens choice and will critter-spot. He will also let you do your own thing on the sites without chivvying or chasing. Nitrox is available. 6 divers on the boat for a morning 2-tank dive. In the busier seasons, afternoon too. Take your time, take your pics, relax and enjoy. I can recommend Jef and Lu heartily - two of the nicest dive owners I have met.

As for the non-diver on the island: given that it’s half-French and half-Dutch, there is really nice cultural diversity complete with historical sites of interest. Great beaches, easy on-island travel with rental cars, friendly, helpful people. Cheap gas. If you want baguettes, French cuisine, great wines, pain au chocolat, it’s on the French side; if you want bitterballen and drop (Dutch liquorice), Heineken, you can get that too on the Dutch side which arguably caters more to American tastes. Don’t get me going on local rums. Excellent supermarkets (Carrefour and Super U). Loads of restaurants are open - very many with outdoor seating - and are very good at a huge price range. So lots for the diver and non-diver.

On the Dutch half everyone speaks English and the US Dollar is king. On the French side, on parle français, English is widely understood, and it’s the Euro. Power is 110v on the Dutch side with US-style plug sockets.

Social distancing is practised and, there is a relatively low level of CV19 cases. Everyone wears a mask in shops and indoor settings. Hand shakes are a thing of the past. But other than that, and a PCR test before you board the aircraft (which you need to upload to a St Maarten government website before arrival), life is relatively normal or maybe better than what now passes for new normal. Although you will see plenty of evidence of the devastating impact of Hurricane Irma in 2017 especially on the French side,

If you feel in need of a dive break, “escape” from COVID, some warm sunshine and you can get on Air France, KLM, American Airlines, Jet Blue, United, Spirit or Delta, St Maarten is open for business and I can heartily recommend it.

And no, I’m not getting paid or anything to promote St Martin. But I am deeply grateful to my lovely partner for bringing me here. And for modelling on my wide-angle shots :-)

 

 

 

 

 

[Chris Kippax 43]

Nice work Tim

Its good to hear a positive story, diving looks pretty good too

[TimG 62]

Thanks Chris

Honestly, gotta pinch myself at times. Living almost normally AND diving!

 

[Chris Kippax 43]

You are doing better than me mate, I am in the Western Australian desert thousands of kilometers from home.

Will hopefully get to go home after Christmas, could be worse though at least I have a job.

[ChrisRoss 150]

24 minutes ago, Chris Kippax said:

You are doing better than me mate, I am in the Western Australian desert thousands of kilometers from home.

Will hopefully get to go home after Christmas, could be worse though at least I have a job.

If you're in WA and can travel around check out the boats going out to Rowley Shoals.  I was hoping to go this year but the border closures put an end to that idea and I'm booked to go next year.  Apparently boats are running for WA residents.

[Chris Kippax 43]

48 minutes ago, ChrisRoss said:

If you're in WA and can travel around check out the boats going out to Rowley Shoals.  I was hoping to go this year but the border closures put an end to that idea and I'm booked to go next year.  Apparently boats are running for WA residents.

I would love to but dive gear and camera are in Qld. 

Google Scott reef WA. Would love to put a charter together for a trip there.

[Chris Kippax 43]

My current location is a bit sad in the diving department  Tim's looks a little bit more inviting

[ChrisRoss 150]

4 minutes ago, Chris Kippax said:

My current location is a bit sad in the diving department  Tim's looks a little bit more inviting

 

 

Really is the middle of nowhere - so you don't get to travel elsewhere during downtime?

I flew over Scott reef once looked amazing from 36,000 ft.  I guess it'd be the same as Rowley - you have to travel out in Oct/Nov

 

[Chris Kippax 43]

Not really, Every additional day I am on-site I get a day in lieu, I will take about 3 months off after this stint.

I have the offer to go to Perth when ever I want but have no family there so not overly interested. Some guys have been on-site since March.

Yes quite a steam to Scott, I imagine it would be 24 hours at least.

[TimG 62]

5 hours ago, Chris Kippax said:

I would love to but dive gear and camera are in Qld. 

Google Scott reef WA. Would love to put a charter together for a trip there.

Argghhh!!! Chris, NEVER leave home without your dive gear. I was working in Kabul for 18 months and had my dive gear in my portacabin home