Jump to content
Phil Rudin

Nauticam NA-A7c housing

Recommended Posts

14 hours ago, Davide DB said:

Good question!

When I saw it, I thought, "This will get scratched just by laying it on the boat. Especially for me who only uses inflatables boats." :crazy:

 

15_8caac7c3-aedc-4875-a030-535db723a014_1024x1024.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm a little embarrassed to post such a poor quality photo on a photography forum, but, well, here it is. This is my WWL-1 with the foam buoyancy collar. It does look like it is bigger than the 1B collar. But, it doesn't look like the difference is all THAT much.

Personally, being always on the hunt for bargains on used gear, were I shopping for a WWL-1, I think I would have no problem buying a used WWL-1 and using the foam buoyancy collar, if it saved me a couple of hundred bucks.

2021-04-05 21.48.31.jpg

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, stuartv said:

 

I'm a little embarrassed to post such a poor quality photo on a photography forum, but, well, here it is. This is my WWL-1 with the foam buoyancy collar. It does look like it is bigger than the 1B collar. But, it doesn't look like the difference is all THAT much.

Personally, being always on the hunt for bargains on used gear, were I shopping for a WWL-1, I think I would have no problem buying a used WWL-1 and using the foam buoyancy collar, if it saved me a couple of hundred bucks.

2021-04-05 21.48.31.jpg

Me too. Bargains first!!! :man_in_love:

Looking at the scratches on your WWL-1 I'm still more convinced that after one year of use the new Alu collar would have a completely stripped surface. The only advantage (for me) of the new collar is being 1rated 50m. 

I sold a couple of ports lately and one guy asked me macro photos of the dome petals to see if the black paint was perfect (on the petal)...

P.S.

I'm very careful and finicky with my gear but I do > 100 technical dives per year...

This thread is hijacked. Maybe a mod would create a branch on WWL-1 WWL-1B characteristics?

 

Edited by Davide DB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, Davide DB said:

Me too. Bargains first!!! :man_in_love:

Looking at signs on your WWL-1 I'm still more convinced that after one year of use the new Alu collar would have a completely stripped surface. The only advantage (for me) of the new collar is being 1rated 50m. 

I sold a couple of ports lately and one guy asked me macro photos of the dome petals to see if the black paint was perfect (on the petal)...

P.S.

I'm very careful and finicky with my gear but I do > 100 technical dives per year...

This thread is hijacked. Maybe a mod would create a branch on WWL-1 WWL-1B characteristics?

 

 

I'm glad you mentioned the depth rating. What I can see on the Nauticam website is that the WWL-1 is rated to 100m and the WWL-1B is rated to 150m.

I can't see a depth rating on the foam buoyancy collar itself. I guess that means that the WWL-1 is rated to 100m, assuming you're using the foam buoyancy collar? And it's the foam collar that is the limiting factor? 

Are you aware of some lesser depth rating of the foam buoyancy collar itself?

If the WWL-1 is identical to the WWL-1B, except for the aluminum collar, then I can't see how the WWL-1 itself (no collar) would not be capable of the same depth as the WWL-1B.

I'm scheduled to dive the U-869 this summer and will probably take my WWL-1 on that. I would not have thought about making sure of a depth limit on my WWL-1 for that dive. It's only about 70m. I guess the WWL-1 with the foam buoyancy collar is okay for that...?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

I couldn't find the link right now but the foam ring is rated 50m. The Italian Nauticam dealer confirmed it.

There is a 10Bar foam collar for the WWL-1 and it's rated 100m but the dealer said me that it couldn't find differences with the Nauticam. I had no problem going > 100 with Nauticam domes.

You shouldn't have problems going deeper with the foam collar. Eventually it will shrink and your housing will become heavier.

Years ago I didn't notice that my Stix foam was rated 40m. At 70m I felt my camera very heavy and I realized that the stix foam was all squished up like chewing gum. Once on the surface, few hours later it returned like new. Back home I sold it. 

Edited by Davide DB
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Davide DB said:

I couldn't find the link right now but the foam ring is rated 50m. The Italian Nauticam dealer confirmed it.

There is a 10Bar foam collar for the WWL-1 and it's rated 100m but the dealer said me that it couldn't find differences with the Nauticam. I had no problem going > 100 with Nauticam domes.

You shouldn't have problems going deeper with the foam collar. Eventually it will shrink and your housing will become heavier.

Years ago I didn't notice that my Stix foam was rated 40m. At 70m I felt my camera very heavy and I realized that the stix foam was all squished up like chewing gum. Once on the surface, few hours later it returned like new. When I was back at home I sold it. 

 

Thanks for that info. I think I will take the foam collar to 70m and not worry about it. 

I did know my Stix floats are only rated to around 40m. I was planning to get a couple more carbon fiber float arms to use instead of my Stix floats, for the deeper dives. But, it is interesting to hear that the Stix return to "like new" after a dive like that. I will give some thought to using them for that.

I'm don't foresee anymore 100m dives for me any time soon. I did that on OC and I have no interest in doing it again on OC. My CCR limit is currently 50m, soon to be 70m. It will be a while before I advance my CCR training to the 100m ticket. And only after that will I get back to any 100m diving. 100m diving on OC is just too risky for my tastes.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just remember that you need to adhere to the "lowest" depth rating of all components in the system. I believe most Nauticam housing are rated to 100m unless you get some special seals put in them. Also, some of the larger domes are depth rated to 60m. One of the reasons I got the N85 7" acrylic dome instead of the 180mm glass dome is the 60m depth rating on the latter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the WWL-1B is rated to 150m, and the foam buoyancy collar is only rated to 50m, then I wonder why the WWL-1 is only rated to 100m? It must be different than the WWL-1B in more ways than just not having a metal buoyancy collar...

 

Not that it's likely to matter to me... If I ever get to the point of diving deeper than 100m, I doubt I'll do it enough to get to the point of feeling comfortable enough to add a camera rig to all the other stuff I would have to be taking... I might do a few dives deeper than 100m eventually, but probably never while also carrying a camera.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

If you have classic alu arms like ULCS or Nauticam you could just buy a kit like this:

https://www.easydive.it/en/arms-and-accessories/floating-arms-and-items/floating-rings-kit-500-g.217.html

The hole is 25mm which is enough for most commons arms. 

After the Stix bad experience, I bought a small pane of the same material and I cut it by myself copying the Stix design. While now I use carbon fiber arms I used them for years and they are still very handy for special rigs...

20210406_172722.thumb.jpg.b55b623e374caf2e412a6971a8d89d5c.jpg

Edited by Davide DB
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Davide DB said:

 

After the Stix bad experience, I bought a small pane of the same material and I cut it by myself copying the Stix design. While now I use carbon fiber arms I used them for years and they are still very handy for special rigs...

 

"Stix bad experience"?

What happened, Davide?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Davide DB said:

Ooh right, yeah, thanks Davide - I thought it'd be that. (Having one of those days - drowning in work (ie not WP) emails!)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The new WWL-1B on the NA-A7C's big brother.

 

13_ebd75e15-ae01-42bd-8fe7-16071268ca4d_1024x1024.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, stuartv said:

If the WWL-1B is rated to 150m, and the foam buoyancy collar is only rated to 50m, then I wonder why the WWL-1 is only rated to 100m? It must be different than the WWL-1B in more ways than just not having a metal buoyancy collar...

 

Not that it's likely to matter to me... If I ever get to the point of diving deeper than 100m, I doubt I'll do it enough to get to the point of feeling comfortable enough to add a camera rig to all the other stuff I would have to be taking... I might do a few dives deeper than 100m eventually, but probably never while also carrying a camera.

Quite likely some small change will allow them to rate it deeper.  It depends on what the limiting component is - it's probably not the glass dome if I were to guess as the optics are reported to be the same- perhaps the collar adds strength to structure.  In terms of mechanical design you are looking at 1500 kPa pressure at 150m, it's really not that high. Though being external pressure that does add some complications.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Davide DB said:

If you have classic alu arms like ULCS or Nauticam you could just buy a kit like this:

https://www.easydive.it/en/arms-and-accessories/floating-arms-and-items/floating-rings-kit-500-g.217.html

The hole is 25mm which is enough for most commons arms. 

After the Stix bad experience, I bought a small pane of the same material and I cut it by myself copying the Stix design. While now I use carbon fiber arms I used them for years and they are still very handy for special rigs...

20210406_172722.thumb.jpg.b55b623e374caf2e412a6971a8d89d5c.jpg

I am not a technical diver and use regular floats, designed for fishermen nets, for buoancy of the housing from the company below (similar depth rating as the Stix floats, but cost almost nothing). They have  also special floats for deep-sea nets at low cost in their program, rated between 400m and 1800m, depending on material. The material can be cutted and holes can be drilled into it. Maybe worth to consider (unfortunately the site is only in German)?:

https://engelnetze.com/tiefseeschwimmer

 

Wolfgang

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, Architeuthis said:

I am not a technical diver and use regular floats, designed for fishermen nets, for buoancy of the housing from the company below (similar depth rating as the Stix floats, but cost almost nothing). They have  also special floats for deep-sea nets at low cost in their program, rated between 400m and 1800m, depending on material. The material can be cutted and holes can be drilled into it. Maybe worth to consider (unfortunately the site is only in German)?:

https://engelnetze.com/tiefseeschwimmer

 

Wolfgang

 

Yes, plenty of DIY solutions out there

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the helps here guys! I bought the housing with wet lens and 2 Inon z330 strobes with Nauticam carbon fiber float (not sure if I need the float but Reef photo recommended them).

How do you guys cary the whole rig for travel? Any case that can fit the strobes, arms, housing and WWL-1B, CMC1 lenses do you recommend to protect these gears for check in?

Also how do you guys normally carry it on the boat? Just assemble before and drag the housing up?

On getting to the water, do you leave the rig with someone and ask them to pass you the rig after getting in the water?

Sorry for a lot of noob questions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, imacro said:

Thanks for all the helps here guys! I bought the housing with wet lens and 2 Inon z330 strobes with Nauticam carbon fiber float (not sure if I need the float but Reef photo recommended them).

How do you guys cary the whole rig for travel? Any case that can fit the strobes, arms, housing and WWL-1B, CMC1 lenses do you recommend to protect these gears for check in?

Also how do you guys normally carry it on the boat? Just assemble before and drag the housing up?

On getting to the water, do you leave the rig with someone and ask them to pass you the rig after getting in the water?

Sorry for a lot of noob questions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi,

Congrats on the purchase - maybe it's best if you create a separate post as these questions are not really related on the housing thread itself

I just carry my gear in my carry on if it fits, otherwise i'll put the whole thing in the suitcase. Never had any issue.

Assemble everything before being on the boat.

As for the float, you need to do buoyancy check on your equipment (bathtub and electronic scale should work).

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
36 minutes ago, imacro said:

Also how do you guys normally carry it on the boat? Just assemble before and drag the housing up?

I don't have one myself, but I've seen a few people use this bag on day boats, and it looked like a very good solution.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
48 minutes ago, Barmaglot said:

I don't have one myself, but I've seen a few people use this bag on day boats, and it looked like a very good solution.

 

Sorry, this is going way off the original topic now:

I've just bought one of those and used it twice so far. Pricey but, yep, very high quality indeed. I've tried it so far with:

Subal ND500 housing + Macro port + 2x Retra Strobes + Snoot + 2x 5" arms with Stix + 2x 8" arms with Stix (a squeeze but doable)

Subal ND500 housing + 100m port + 2x Retra Strobes + 2x 8" arms with Stix + 2x 12" terms with Stix  (Fits - see photo)

Zips look good and should be pretty salt proof. The handles make it easy to carry. I've not tried the shoulder strap yet but it looks very solid. The thing I like about it especially, as well as the protection it offers, is the personal rinse tank. It's marketed as leak proof - unlike the various cheap cool bags I've bought over the years which, in total, probably cost what the Cinebags does. (buy cheap, buy twice)

I got mine from Bluewater.

IMG_1676.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Barmaglot said:

I don't have one myself, but I've seen a few people use this bag on day boats, and it looked like a very good solution.

And then people complain that Keldans are expensive :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Davide DB said:

And then people complain that Keldans are expensive :D

$159 is as much as a large Nauticam float arm; really not that much in the great scheme of things. A single Keldan 8X is over $2000.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Barmaglot said:

$159 is as much as a large Nauticam float arm; really not that much in the great scheme of things. A single Keldan 8X is over $2000.

Agreed, but Davide is shopping in Europe and the Cinebags are somewhat pricey there. I wouldn't buy one whilst I was living in Amsterdam. It's a different matter when covered by the US market and pricing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, imacro said:

Thanks for all the helps here guys! I bought the housing with wet lens and 2 Inon z330 strobes with Nauticam carbon fiber float (not sure if I need the float but Reef photo recommended them).

How do you guys cary the whole rig for travel? Any case that can fit the strobes, arms, housing and WWL-1B, CMC1 lenses do you recommend to protect these gears for check in?

Also how do you guys normally carry it on the boat? Just assemble before and drag the housing up?

On getting to the water, do you leave the rig with someone and ask them to pass you the rig after getting in the water?

Sorry for a lot of noob questions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A lot depends on the type of trips you are doing.  Going to Thailand on work trips I sometimes add on a dive day trip.  On those I take the camera onboard in a spinner style carry on bag (meets carry-on regulations ) that I added some padding and dividers to - same bag I take it on the plane with.  In the hotel remove the dividers assemble the rig and line it with a hotel towel or two.  Wrap it up in the towel between dives after rinsing.  

The strobes are assembled to arms but only attached to the housing onboard.

It looks to be about the size of my EM-1 MkII rig and I fit that with 170mm dome, lens, camera and strobes/cables/batteries etc in the spinner bag and carry it on the plane.  the arms and clamps are wrapped up and padded in my dive gear bag.  Is use the divider set out of one of my photo backpacks and I lined the bag with fabric covered closed cell foam strips and added velcro to hold the dividers in place.

for local day trips I carry it on the dive boat from my car in a small tub and have an old (damp) towel to wrap around it to keep it from drying out till I get home and soak it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, TimG said:

Agreed, but Davide is shopping in Europe and the Cinebags are somewhat pricey there. I wouldn't buy one whilst I was living in Amsterdam. It's a different matter when covered by the US market and pricing.

A while back I saw it in a store and it was over $200.
Really too much, whatever features it may have 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
On 4/6/2021 at 4:25 PM, TmxDiver said:

Just remember that you need to adhere to the "lowest" depth rating of all components in the system. I believe most Nauticam housing are rated to 100m unless you get some special seals put in them. Also, some of the larger domes are depth rated to 60m. One of the reasons I got the N85 7" acrylic dome instead of the 180mm glass dome is the 60m depth rating on the latter.

I think it is not a matter of seal. At least with Aquatica it is only a matter of changing the springs on the push buttons.
You need to have springs that do not allow the buttons to get pressed in only by the external pressure. 
Of course the buttons will need more effort to be pressured on the surface and at shallow deeps.

Edited by pbalves
To add some more explanation

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sponsors

Advertisements



×
×
  • Create New...