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Floris Bennema

Intuitive settings

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Probably it's more of a tip for the Beginner Forum, but would like to check what experienced users think of the idea.

As a manual mode shooter it is very convenient to have aperture and shutter speed rings. Yet, after I upgraded to a camera with these rings (EPL7 > OMD M5iii), I found the default settings not very intuitive. I had to think twice before I turned the rings, which made me decide to play with the settings.

First I changed the configuration to fit the rule that in most cases the shutter speed is used for the background and the aperture for the foreground. The front ring now operates the speed and the ring on the back the aperture.

And I found out I like the viewfinder (and photo) to become brighter when I turn a ring to the right. (For the ring on the back I mean to the right with the thumb, by convention the ring now goes to the left). These settings feels intuitive and I see no problem in the decrease of shutter and aperture numbers when turning to the right.

Of course it is not a good advice to change your settings once you are accustomed to them, but I think these are ideal settings for first time ring users. 

Do I overlook a disadvantage fumbling with these ring settings?

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Could you please explain what you mean by “ring”

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I think what is meant are dials, but I'm not 100% sure of the purpose of this post. With regards to setting up aperture and shutter dials on the camera (most cameras allow choosing which one does which) I think it really doesn't matter as long as the person who uses it likes it and finds their controls natural to use.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Floris Bennema said:

Probably it's more of a tip for the Beginner Forum, but would like to check what experienced users think of the idea.

As a manual mode shooter it is very convenient to have aperture and shutter speed rings. Yet, after I upgraded to a camera with these rings (EPL7 > OMD M5iii), I found the default settings not very intuitive. I had to think twice before I turned the rings, which made me decide to play with the settings.

First I changed the configuration to fit the rule that in most cases the shutter speed is used for the background and the aperture for the foreground. The front ring now operates the speed and the ring on the back the aperture.

And I found out I like the viewfinder (and photo) to become brighter when I turn a ring to the right. (For the ring on the back I mean to the right with the thumb, by convention the ring now goes to the left). These settings feels intuitive and I see no problem in the decrease of shutter and aperture numbers when turning to the right.

Of course it is not a good advice to change your settings once you are accustomed to them, but I think these are ideal settings for first time ring users. 

Do I overlook a disadvantage fumbling with these ring settings?

Hi Floris,

I (and many other UW-photographers, when using flash (natural light is different)), adjust aperture, shutterspeed, ISO and flash intensity manually as follows (unless some special effect is wanted):

#1.: Aperture: close to the extend to give sharp corners (WA), or enough DOF (Macro). For EM1II (MFT), I personally use f-numbers 7-11 for WA or 10-13 for macro.

#2.: Shutter: For macro as fast as flash sync allows to avoid motion blurr (the entire light is provided then by the flash that lasts approx. 1/1000s). For WA (and for macro, when background is important, e.g. you want blue sea) the speed is selected that gives the desired exposure/color (from nearly black when as fast as possible to light blue/green when slow).

#3.: ISO with MFT sensor is kept at base (i.e. 200), whenever possible (flash is strong enough), to avoid excess noise.

#4.: Exposure of the foreground is adjusted by the flash intensity.

 

There is no difference in this principle between ELP-7 and EM5III...

 

Hope this helps, Wolfgang

Suggested reading, where this principles and many more are explained in detail: https://www.amazon.de/Underwater-Photography-Masterclass-Alex-Mustard/dp/1781452229

 

Edited by Architeuthis

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2 hours ago, Floris Bennema said:

The meaning: wouldn't it be a good  general advise to those who upgrade to a camera with dials. 

 

The key is being able to change the aperture, shutter speed and ISO as easily as possible.

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It sounds like you've set up the camera how it suits you - and that's exactly how it should be. 

It doesn't matter which way the rings/dials go, as long as you understand them. 

Ask 10 people here how theirs work and you'll get 10 different answers, but as  long as  you  understand your settings then that is the right way your camera  should  be set up for  you

Mike

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19 hours ago, Architeuthis said:

Hi Floris,

I (and many other UW-photographers, when using flash (natural light is different)), adjust aperture, shutterspeed, ISO and flash intensity manually as follows (unless some special effect is wanted):

#1.: Aperture: close to the extend to give sharp corners (WA), or enough DOF (Macro). For EM1II (MFT), I personally use f-numbers 7-11 for WA or 10-13 for macro.

#2.: Shutter: For macro as fast as flash sync allows to avoid motion blurr (the entire light is provided then by the flash that lasts approx. 1/1000s). For WA (and for macro, when background is important, e.g. you want blue sea) the speed is selected that gives the desired exposure/color (from nearly black when as fast as possible to light blue/green when slow).

#3.: ISO with MFT sensor is kept at base (i.e. 200), whenever possible (flash is strong enough), to avoid excess noise.

#4.: Exposure of the foreground is adjusted by the flash intensity.

 

There is no difference in this principle between ELP-7 and EM5III...

 

Hope this helps, Wolfgang

Suggested reading, where this principles and many more are explained in detail: https://www.amazon.de/Underwater-Photography-Masterclass-Alex-Mustard/dp/1781452229

 

Hi Wolfgang,

It is not that I am new to manual settings,  I am new to dials in UW photography. For many years I changed my exposure and shutter in E-PL's menu's, which is quite a hassle. In covid time I followed Alex online masterclass (outstanding) and can't wait to go underwater again.

I guess I can be less concerned with sharp corners using the WWL-1 wet lens. 

Are you affraid of diffraction at appertures beyond 13 in macro? Which lens do you use?

Floris

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Floris Bennema said:

Hi Wolfgang,

It is not that I am new to manual settings,  I am new to dials in UW photography. For many years I changed my exposure and shutter in E-PL's menu's, which is quite a hassle. In covid time I followed Alex online masterclass (outstanding) and can't wait to go underwater again.

I guess I can be less concerned with sharp corners using the WWL-1 wet lens. 

Are you affraid of diffraction at appertures beyond 13 in macro? Which lens do you use?

Floris

Hi Floris,

 

I see, I did not understand the topic of your question...:lol:

 

I think if one customizes the two dials once (or, even better, just lets them as they are by default) and feels good how it is set, it is the best to keep the settings as they are. It is certainly not good to change often...

 

On my EM1II (I guess it is also there on EM5III), there is a lever to switch between "1" and "2" and the dials/buttons get different meaning. I have set it so that in "1" (=default) the two dials are for shutterspeed/aperture and in "2" they are for ISO/WB (WB for occasional video)...

Yes, diffraction makes the pictures less sharp, only a little bit, but noticable and when you once know it, I find it disappointing. When needed for more DOF or when making a photo directly into the sun (WA), of course a smaller aperture is also o.k. I use Zuiko 60mm and Pana 45mm macro lenses, mostly the 60mm...

 

Wolfgang

Edited by Architeuthis

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Hi Wolfgang,

Nice advises anyway, dedicated for these lenses. As the EM5iii has an ISO button, I use "2" to freeze the focus.

I use the same lenses but in the sea 'at home' the are to much particles in the water. Didn't use the Pan 45 yet, in bad viz conditions I like to be able to freeze the focus.

Floris

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