tursiops 81 Posted September 5, 2021 I am probably going to get a FIX NEO Blue head for my light, for some fluoro photography. Rather than use yellow filters on the camera to block the blue light, can I block the blue in post-processing? (I'd still use a yellow filter on my mask so I can see what I am taking a picture of....) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisRoss 150 Posted September 6, 2021 I think the problem would be the blue light would drown out the fluro response - I'm guessing here but the fluorescent response comes from the energy in the blue light and the efficiency of conversion is not 100% so is going to be significantly dimmer than the blue light illuminating the subject basically a signal to noise problem. All the articles on it indicate the need to use high ISO and wider apertures. You might be able to get it to work - so probably no harm in trying. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Architeuthis 102 Posted September 6, 2021 (edited) 13 hours ago, tursiops said: I am probably going to get a FIX NEO Blue head for my light, for some fluoro photography. Rather than use yellow filters on the camera to block the blue light, can I block the blue in post-processing? (I'd still use a yellow filter on my mask so I can see what I am taking a picture of....) It is possible to make fluorography photos without filters. The picture below was taken just with the blue LED of my WeeFine Smartfocus 2400, without any filters, and in LR the blue as reduced greatly, but not complete, and yellow was enhanced. I guess, however, that for serious fluoro-photos you will need a serious equipment including filters... Wolfgang EM5II; Zuiko 12-40mm @17mm; Zen DP170; ISO 200; f 2.8; 1/8s. Edited September 6, 2021 by Architeuthis Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tursiops 81 Posted September 7, 2021 Ok, you both confirm my guesses and fears. Thanks. Here is the problem: I'd like to try using my WWL-1 for some fluorophotography, but don't know how to get a yellow filter big enough to put in front of it. I may have to drop back to other lenses... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Architeuthis 102 Posted September 7, 2021 Hi tursiops, Why not mount the filter to the lens instead of to the WWL? Wolfgang Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Barmaglot 178 Posted September 7, 2021 Or you can put a yellow filter in the back of the WWL-1, between the rear element and the port glass. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tursiops 81 Posted September 7, 2021 15 hours ago, Architeuthis said: Hi tursiops, Why not mount the filter to the lens instead of to the WWL? Wolfgang No room. The lens front comes right out to the port. Good suggestion, though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tursiops 81 Posted September 7, 2021 12 hours ago, Barmaglot said: Or you can put a yellow filter in the back of the WWL-1, between the rear element and the port glass. Hmm, not sure how to do that. The WWL-1 is on a bayonet mount. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisRoss 150 Posted September 7, 2021 1 hour ago, tursiops said: Hmm, not sure how to do that. The WWL-1 is on a bayonet mount. You could screw an M67 filter to the port then the bayonet adapter to the filter ring. Be fiddly to do as you have to clear air bubbles. It will probably vignette though due to extra distance to the WWL and you would lose the widest angles. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tursiops 81 Posted September 7, 2021 5 minutes ago, ChrisRoss said: You could screw an M67 filter to the port then the bayonet adapter to the filter ring. Be fiddly to do as you have to clear air bubbles. It will probably vignette though due to extra distance to the WWL and you would lose the widest angles. I think I'll try and add a yellow filter to the camera lens....the 14-42 EZ Zoom. I hate being committed for a full dive like that, but it is probably the best solution. If the lens zooms out too far and hits the port, I'll just back off a little. What color yellow is best to block the FIX NEO BLUE? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisRoss 150 Posted September 8, 2021 4 hours ago, tursiops said: I think I'll try and add a yellow filter to the camera lens....the 14-42 EZ Zoom. I hate being committed for a full dive like that, but it is probably the best solution. If the lens zooms out too far and hits the port, I'll just back off a little. What color yellow is best to block the FIX NEO BLUE? You need to block blue light, probably it is in the 450 - 470 nm wavelength range _ I couldn't find the spec for your light. You need a longpass filter which blocks wavelengths shorter than a certain value, I would expect a Wratten 12 would be close to what you want, maybe could use a wratten 9 if your lights were 450 nm. Or you could buy the filters that various UW retailers sell. A filter from B&H is likely cheaper: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Color-Balance-Black-White-Contrast/ci/16772/N/4026728356 I found a wratten 8 and 12 which might do the trick, but depends what size you need. see here for wratten specs: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wratten_number Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
