Converting Ikelite DS160 to optical.

[String 17]

Just after come confirmation here.

Ive got 2 x DS160 Ikelite strobes on a nauticam housing.

They're currently electrically triggered via a bulkhead connector but i really want to move away from this.

After 3 broken hotshoe connectors, 1 snapped wiring in the socket itself and 2 x sync cables welded onto the bulkhead (dissimilar metals...) ive decided its time to go optical.

I know i need 2 of these ( https://www.ikelite.com/products/fiber-optic-converter-for-ds-strobes-3rd-gen ) but what cord am i going to need to connect to those and into the Nauticam housing on the other end of this (ive never used optical in my life).

From what i can see there are different standards for connectors.

The two listed on the ikelite for nauticam ( # 26212  and 26211) appear discontinued.

Will 2 of these do the job?  ( https://www.nauticam.co.uk/universal-fiber-optic-cable/ )

In short, is there anything else i need to convert this setup to optical triggering?

 

[ChrisRoss 150]

If you have the converters, you also need a cable as you said and a trigger inside the housing, exactly which trigger depends upon the type of camera you have - or you can use pop up flash if your camera has one.

The cable needs to have a plug compatible with your housing - if it's Nauticam that can be a Nauticam connector for most DSLR housings or a Sea & Sea plug for smaller housings like m43 housings.  The other end needs to match the converter - it's not completely clear but it looks like it will take S&S  or INON connectors, just by the compatible cables listed.

It looks like Nauticam only sells a universal cable with S&S adapter plugs at each end which should work or if you want one end to be firmly attached by screwing on then this would go on your housing:  https://www.backscatter.com/Nauticam-Fiber-Optic-Connector-for-Nauticam   The S&S plugs are quite easy to pull out if the cable snags, so having one end with a screw-on connector is probably a good idea.

There is also this adapter which converts a Nauticam screw on connector to S&S plugs:  https://underwatercameras.com.au/aoi-nauticam-housing-fiber-optic-connector-seasea-conversion-cap/

and you should be able to use this cable:  https://www.backscatter.com/Inon-Fiber-Optic-D-Cable-Type-L

There will be other solutions available, the price for those adapters at Backscatter is pretty crazy expensive, but seems like that is the price for 4?

If you confirm what housing you have it should be possible to narrow it down.  Ask Ikelite as well about what type of cable will attach to the converter It should be S&S and INON L connector I think.

[Kraken de Mabini 177]

The electric cable connects the Ikelite strobe to an Ikelite converter.

 The left side, screw end of the Ikelite converter accepts one end of a fiber optic cable.
The other end of the cable plugs into the housing, and transmits the camera's flash to trigger the Ikelite converter.   
 In addition to two converters, you will need two fiberoptic cables, two screw on adapters to hold the fiberoptic cables to the converters, and two Nauticam screw on receptacles to secure the fiberoptic cables to the housings fiberoptic ports. These are:   

a. 2 Ikelite converters #4401.3,

b. 2 fiberoptic screw-on adapters for the Ikelite converters,

c. 2 Nauticam housing screw-on adapter caps for fiberoptic cables, Reef Photo [Kevin Palmer] should know the names of b) and c),
and

d. 2 fiberoptic cables with standard 7 mm male plugs at each end

Or instead of b, c and d, you can use two Nauticam Universal Fiber Optic Cables (Nau-26216) from Blue Water.    It may be a good idea for you to first call the dealer and check that these are the correct items. 

  Good luck!

 

Edited October 22, 2021 by Kraken de Mabini

[ChrisRoss 150]

4 minutes ago, Kraken de Mabini said:

c. 2 Nauticam housing screw on adapter caps for fiberoptic cables, Reef Photo [Kevin Palmer] should know the names of b) and c),
and

 

This will depend on which Nauticam housing being used.  The smaller housing take S&S plugs directly.

What sort of thread is on the ikelte converter fibre cable end?

[String 17]

I forgot to add its a Nautican EOS70D housing (so DSLR, has 2 optical connectors).

I can use the pop up flash for now to trigger.

[DynamicDivers 1]

If I were you, I would get the high sensitivity optical slave triggers... They can be used with the optical cables, but the 'hood' for the cables can be used, and the strobes can then be used as optical slaves from other flashes. Gives you more options for basically the same price.  https://www.ikelite.com/products/high-sensitivity-optical-slave-converter-for-remote-triggering-of-ds-strobes

[Kraken de Mabini 177]

This Nauticam housing "has 2 Customizable Accessory Ports (allowing use of optional Nikonos, S6, or Ikelite Strobe Connectors)".  As Ikelite will know how to connect fiber optic cables to this housing, it is a good idea to email or phone them for advice on how to proceed. 

 

 

. 

[Stoo 42]

I have to ask... WTF are you doing with your rig to incur all that damage... using it as a hammer?

In my experience, those fibre-optic cables are really flimsy. I've never used them myself, but friends I dive with that use them have frequent issues with cables breaking. I suppose the upside is that the cables are cheap and easy to swap out. I've been using the same chords to my Ikes for maybe 10 years... I just replaced one of them with my spare this spring finally.

I'd just be concerned that if you're having issues keeping the hard-wire connection safe, you may be in for even more trouble with optical.

[ChrisRoss 150]

3 minutes ago, Stoo said:

I have to ask... WTF are you doing with your rig to incur all that damage... using it as a hammer?

In my experience, those fibre-optic cables are really flimsy. I've never used them myself, but friends I dive with that use them have frequent issues with cables breaking. I suppose the upside is that the cables are cheap and easy to swap out. I've been using the same chords to my Ikes for maybe 10 years... I just replaced one of them with my spare this spring finally.

I'd just be concerned that if you're having issues keeping the hard-wire connection safe, you may be in for even more trouble with optical.

I think the experience varies depending on how you dive and to some extent where.  I've been using a Nauticam and an INON fibre optic cables for about 5 years now and still going strong.  Electric cables need to be maintained - if you leave them connected for long periods, the threads will start to corrode and seize.  Fibre optucs it is no drama to disconnect and soak them as you don't need to deal with o-rings.

 

[ChrisRoss 150]

3 hours ago, String said:

I forgot to add its a Nautican EOS70D housing (so DSLR, has 2 optical connectors).

I can use the pop up flash for now to trigger.

Well you will need to use one of the Nauticam adapters I linked which scre on and will then take a Sea and Sea connector.

At the strobe end I suspect it will take either a Sea and Sea plug or an INON screw fitting and this in the information you need to get from ikelite.

If you were having trouble with the electric cables seizing - this is still a risk where the fibre optic converter attaches to the strobe as that is a screw on electric sync type fitting.  You will need to periodically remove it and clean the threads and o-rings and re-fit so it doesn't seize.

[Stoo 42]

Yes of course.... a little preventative medicine goes a long way. Most of my diving is in fresh water too, which solves that problem to a large extent. It was the actual cables breaking that I was referring too.

[ChrisRoss 150]

39 minutes ago, Stoo said:

Yes of course.... a little preventative medicine goes a long way. Most of my diving is in fresh water too, which solves that problem to a large extent. It was the actual cables breaking that I was referring too.

I know, I've never had a cable break and I don't take special care with them.

[String 17]

4 dives a day on a liveaboard for work where even the fresh water isnt that "fresh" for 7 months of the year so it get s a *lot* of use.

Camera passed to/from the boat and generally dumped by a busy boat crew before and after dives as they try to handle everything so things get banged.

Main problems ive found are the dissimilar metals cause the electrical bulkhead plug to rapidly fuse to the socket even with regular maintenance.  I know at least 3 people all have had this issue with Ikelite cables welding themselves onto the socket and only being removable with a saw.

That last one that did it to me was after 3 days (cancelled boat, camera left on boat in a rush).

Ive also had 2 hotshoe wires break due to the angle they sit and strain/bend inside the house.  In addition the connector block between the hot shoe wires and sockets has a tendency of slipping apart if the housing is banged on entry etc at times.  Its a really flimsy design.

Had 1 set of wires break somewhere inside the glued on connector that feeds the socket as well.

Sync cords themselves are roughly 11 years old.  One has now broken but the other way working but is glued completely to the bulkhead socket.  It cant be removed without cutting.

I'd rather get to a stage where the fibre cable is the only real point of failure and replacing that wont involve saws or complete strobe failure on dives (ie fixable on a dive boat without a soldering iron).

Edited October 23, 2021 by String

[ChrisRoss 150]

18 hours ago, String said:

4 dives a day on a liveaboard for work where even the fresh water isnt that "fresh" for 7 months of the year so it get s a *lot* of use.

Camera passed to/from the boat and generally dumped by a busy boat crew before and after dives as they try to handle everything so things get banged.

Main problems ive found are the dissimilar metals cause the electrical bulkhead plug to rapidly fuse to the socket even with regular maintenance.  I know at least 3 people all have had this issue with Ikelite cables welding themselves onto the socket and only being removable with a saw.

That last one that did it to me was after 3 days (cancelled boat, camera left on boat in a rush).

Ive also had 2 hotshoe wires break due to the angle they sit and strain/bend inside the house.  In addition the connector block between the hot shoe wires and sockets has a tendency of slipping apart if the housing is banged on entry etc at times.  Its a really flimsy design.

Had 1 set of wires break somewhere inside the glued on connector that feeds the socket as well.

Sync cords themselves are roughly 11 years old.  One has now broken but the other way working but is glued completely to the bulkhead socket.  It cant be removed without cutting.

I'd rather get to a stage where the fibre cable is the only real point of failure and replacing that wont involve saws or complete strobe failure on dives (ie fixable on a dive boat without a soldering iron).

Certainly a lot easier to deal with fibre in this situation.  I have even forgotten my fibre optic cables on a trip and put together something workable from a Toslink cable(audio fibre optic cables).  Bear in mind you will still need to deal with the connection to the strobe itself.

When you buy your cable consider getting some spare ends if your dealer stocks them.  Like this for S&S :

https://reefphoto.com/collections/inon/products/inon-90-degree-double-hole-fiber-optic-plug-rubber-bush-plug

You just trim a broken fibre with a sharp knife and fit the plug.  The strobe end fitting for INON strobe cables is also removable and can be refitted: https://reefphoto.com/collections/inon/products/inon-optical-d-cable-43-cm-l-type-for-z-240-d-2000-s-2000

INON cables should be readily available in your region.

A couple of other points, the standard converter can handle pre-flash form the camera, the high sensitivity is manual flash only won't work if your camera pre-flashes.  Assume you are aware the converter only allows you to use the DS-161 in manual flash.

 

[ChrisRoss 150]

After a bit of searching I found this on backscatter's site:

https://www.backscatter.com/Discountinued-Ikelite-Fiber-Optic-Adapter-for-DS

The third image shows you can connect an INON or Sea and Sea cable to the converter.  So I would suggest this cable (or longer version if needed):

http://www.divervision.com/inon-optical-d-cable-type-l-approx.-43cm-456212143441

plus this bushing for your camera end:

http://www.divervision.com/inon-rubber-bush-type-l-for-dual-fiber-optics-456212143784.html

and this adapter for your housing:

http://www.divervision.com/howshot-fiber-adapter-for-nauticam-housings-FA-SS2NA.html

The end plugs of the cable are repairable.  The fibre cable is firmly attached to the strobe but the housing end is a push fitting so will pull out rather than break.  The INON L plug has good strain relief on the cable.

INON provide good instructions on servicing the cables, on many other brands, the plug is moulded and the cable is a throwaway unless you can source a new plug.  It may be worth ordering a couple of spare bushings for the camera end as it is quite possibly a long way to send a $6 part for your location.  Here is the link for maintenance: http://www.inon.jp/technicalguide/cable-l.html

 

[Phil Rudin 458]

This opinion is from someone who has actually used the equipment with and without the fiber optics cords. In several of my reviews for UWPMAG.com I have used both the 161 and 50 strobes with wired cords and fiber optic cords on housings from TG-6, to Olympus M43 and the larger full frame camera housings. I used wired strobes and flash bulb units from the late 1960's and my overwhelming preference in 2021 is for fiber optics over wired strobes. 

In the case of the DS-161 I prefer the wiring the flash over the fiber optic unit. The biggest issue I have with the Ikelite optical converter is that Ike strobes don't come in a right and left design. If you are using a ball mount the mounting port for the optical converter is left of the ball when mounted on the arm with the strobe hanging down. This means the strobe on the left side of the housing has the optical converter sticking out to the left and the strobe on the right side of the housing has the optical converter on the inside between the housing and strobe. In my tests particularly when shooting macro I found the converter got in the way of proper strobe placement causing me to need to tilt the strobe more inward or outward depending on the situation. This is more of a problem with larger housings like the DSLR and full frame mirrorless housings than it is with the small housings like TG-6. Second regardless of how you trigger the strobes they will not TTL even using the cameras on-board flash. Further if you intend to use the on-board flash to trigger the fiber optic converter your recycle times will be greatly reduced V. the wired TTL trigger. 

I would stick with the old style wired cords and step-up your cleaning and maintenance routine.