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I'm shooting a Sony a7rIV. I've been using Inon Z240 Type 3 strobes for the last few years. I recently got a set of Inon Z330 Type 2 strobes and demoted the 240s to Backup status.

I got to shoot the 330s for a week, last week. I always used them with the "SOFT" -0.3 EV diffuser domes that came with them.

I had a few photos that had hot spots in them that I felt like I shouldn't have had. I never had that issue, ever, with the 240s. I was shooting in the same locations and conditions that I have shot the 240s on many occasions (North Carolina wrecks).

I'm looking into getting some of the optional Inon diffusers to try. However, I am skeptical that they will make any difference to the hot spots that I experienced. But, it seems that the 4600K may produce nicer results when shooting sharks at ~100 feet.

 

So, I have other questions:

If I get the 4600K filters, is there any reason to also get the 4900K filters?

How much light do these filters take out?

What is the purpose for the ND filter they offer? It says it is -4 EV. What are examples of situations where I might even want to use that? It seems like if I wanted that, I would just turn the strobes down...

Are they any non-Inon options I should be looking at (to use on the Z330s)?

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I understand the Z330s are more powerful than the Z240 (33 vs 24 guide number). I think (not sure) that given that both strobes seem to have the same number of steps in the setting that at equivalent settings the Z330 is putting out more light hence the hotspot? 

Regarding the Filters, I asked the same question before. A lot gave helpful answers. The thread is here:

 

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5 hours ago, stuartv said:

I'm shooting a Sony a7rIV. I've been using Inon Z240 Type 3 strobes for the last few years. I recently got a set of Inon Z330 Type 2 strobes and demoted the 240s to Backup status.

I got to shoot the 330s for a week, last week. I always used them with the "SOFT" -0.3 EV diffuser domes that came with them.

I had a few photos that had hot spots in them that I felt like I shouldn't have had. I never had that issue, ever, with the 240s. I was shooting in the same locations and conditions that I have shot the 240s on many occasions (North Carolina wrecks).

I'm looking into getting some of the optional Inon diffusers to try. However, I am skeptical that they will make any difference to the hot spots that I experienced. But, it seems that the 4600K may produce nicer results when shooting sharks at ~100 feet.

 

So, I have other questions:

If I get the 4600K filters, is there any reason to also get the 4900K filters?

How much light do these filters take out?

What is the purpose for the ND filter they offer? It says it is -4 EV. What are examples of situations where I might even want to use that? It seems like if I wanted that, I would just turn the strobes down...

Are they any non-Inon options I should be looking at (to use on the Z330s)?

I've used the 4600K filters - they are said to be not much help in green waters , more useful for clear blue tropical water.  Having said that I've used them around Sydney and they work just fine. 

If you want to compare what strobe coverage looks like and the impact of diffusers the reefphoto article has some comparison shots:

https://reefphoto.com/blogs/trending/how-good-are-the-current-strobes-for-light-intensity-and-coverage

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Pomacentridae said:

I understand the Z330s are more powerful than the Z240 (33 vs 24 guide number). I think (not sure) that given that both strobes seem to have the same number of steps in the setting that at equivalent settings the Z330 is putting out more light hence the hotspot? 

Regarding the Filters, I asked the same question before. A lot gave helpful answers. The thread is here:

 

 

Thanks. It's possible that the same number on the power dial is actually putting out more light on the 330 vs the 240 - but that's irrelevant to what I was saying. I didn't shoot my photos assuming the strobe power # would be the same. I adjusted the strobe power # to give me what looked like a good exposure when reviewing test photos in the viewfinder.

I'm still not sure I understand what ND filters are good for. I can only infer that what Adam wrote was based on (I guess) the strobe on it's lowest power setting is still too bright for what he was doing with his macro shots?

 

33 minutes ago, ChrisRoss said:

I've used the 4600K filters - they are said to be not much help in green waters , more useful for clear blue tropical water.  Having said that I've used them around Sydney and they work just fine. 

If you want to compare what strobe coverage looks like and the impact of diffusers the reefphoto article has some comparison shots:

https://reefphoto.com/blogs/trending/how-good-are-the-current-strobes-for-light-intensity-and-coverage

 

I've read that before - as recently as two weeks ago. Unfortunately, it does not show how the 330 looks with any diffusers except for the one "SOFT" one that comes with it - which is what I'm already using.

 

All that said, I think I have learned enough now to just order the 4600 diffusers. I don't think I need the 4900 or ND ones.

 

Thank you!

Edited by stuartv

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I can only say something to the ND filters. I bought them, since in my initial macro photos with the Z330 strobes, I found it difficult not to overexpose, even at lowest flash settings (manual settings, both flash and camera). I practically never use the ND filters now, since I learned to work with the higher strobe power and pull them back, as required. No need for ND filters for "regular" macro purpose...

As Adam wrote in the other tread, the ND filters can be useful, when one uses unusual high f-numbers, for creative purpose (what I never tried so far)...

 

Wolfgang

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I have been shooting with the 4600K defusers for years with Inon Z-240 and now Z-330 flashes. I have never has an issue with hot spots. If you are using TTL I think you are more likely to have over exposure issues than when you have dialed in the strobes shooting in manual. 

The four stop ND defusers help if you are shooting macro at F/2.8 and low ISO where you would get over exposures with most strobes in TTL or manual. 

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37 minutes ago, Phil Rudin said:

I have been shooting with the 4600K defusers for years with Inon Z-240 and now Z-330 flashes. I have never has an issue with hot spots. If you are using TTL I think you are more likely to have over exposure issues than when you have dialed in the strobes shooting in manual. 

The four stop ND defusers help if you are shooting macro at F/2.8 and low ISO where you would get over exposures with most strobes in TTL or manual. 

 

I have never used TTL. Always full Manual.

Recently, I have been trying to figure out how to get TTL to work with my rig, but haven't actually used it yet.

 

Thanks for the explanation on a use for ND diffusers.

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I have the UWTechnics for Sony TTL in my A1 housing and it is the best solution for TTL I have tried so far. I use it for TTL most often when reviewing equipment but shoot manual for personal work. 

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5 minutes ago, Phil Rudin said:

I have the UWTechnics for Sony TTL in my A1 housing and it is the best solution for TTL I have tried so far. I use it for TTL most often when reviewing equipment but shoot manual for personal work. 

 

I have the UTW trigger in my a7rIV housing. That is what I'm trying to make work. I have another thread going on here where Pavel is now trying to help me.

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I use a pair of z330s with the 4600k diffusers for wide angle photography, full manual settings. I thought the light spread was a bit uneven, so took to the diffusers with some fine sandpaper to make them a bit more opaque and less clear/transparent. I haven’t been able to do a proper comparison with new or clean ones, but I’m generally very happy with the results I’m getting lately. 
 

YMMV :pardon:

 

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