WWL-1B for bait balls while snorkeling or free-diving at Mag Bay

[phil.elsasser 10]

I currently own the Sony A1 and have been using the Canon 8-15MM fisheye and really love the set up.  I am debating going to Magdalena Bay this fall for the Marlin and bait balls and believe that the 15MM is probably a bit too wide for how close I may be able to get to the action.  I am debating investing in the Sony 28-60mm with the WWL-1B to have more flexibility in focal lengths.  

One concern I have with this set up, having never used a wet lens before, is if in a high paced environment of getting in and out of the water quickly is if having to burp the lens is going to be a problem. 

Would love to get some feedback from anyone who has shot with a wet lens in a similar setting and how that worked out. 

Thank you all!

Phil

[Isaac Szabo 86]

One option would be to use an o-ring between the WWL-1 and port. Seal it up (underwater) once and then not worry about it for the rest of the day. 

[phil.elsasser 10]

Thanks Isaac - I just also found out about the WACP-C and am not debating between the two!  Its great to have all these amazing options 

[pooley 26]

I've got the A1 with WWL-1 setup and have not had to burp it. That's diving though, it may make a difference if you're snorkelling

Mike

[JayceeB 52]

Hi Phil,

I have not been to Magdalena Bay, but I do have experience with the 28-60+WWL-1B in a high paced offshore environment shooting whales and Oceanic Whitetip sharks.

The 28-60 port requires that you install the bayonet mount upside down to avoid the focus ring cap…at least that’s the only way I could figure out how to do it.  This means the bayonet release handle is on the right side.  I am right handed and found it awkward pulling the handle with my right hand and spinning the lens with my left hand.  Also, the stock handle is too short to easily get your fingers in between the WWL-1B and housing, so you have to install an extension to it.  It takes me about 15 or more seconds to remove the lens, brush the bubbles off the port and lens, and re-install it.

For close focus wide angle reef shots, I really loved this lens.

For offshore work, I did not like it, and here’s why.

1. 15 seconds is a long time when you are focusing 100% of your attention on preparing your lens.  It introduces risk, as you should be staying keenly aware of where the boat and propeller are, as well as keeping a look out for sharks coming in from any direction.
2. While you spend 15 seconds preparing your lens, the other people on the boat are finning ahead to get in position for whatever is coming.  You will be behind the crowd.  Any shy animals may already be gone by the time you catch up.  Also, you will have plenty of shots with other divers in your shot.
3. If you drop your lens in deep water, say ‘bye bye’.  It’s easy to do when your adrenaline is pumping.  You can tether it, but that’s one more thing to mess with.

I sold my 28-60 + WWL-1B and moved to a 14-35+230mm dome.  I plan to get a 180mm dome for offshore work, as I think the 230mm is overkill, given corner sharpness isn’t critical in deep blue water.

-Jaycee

[shanesmith.photos 13]

Yeah, the burping can be a bit of a pain. I spent quite a bit of time swimming with mantas in a fast-flowing channel this year where you get dropped off at the top of the channel, drift down past the mantas and then get picked up by the boat at the other end; then rinse and repeat. On a Nauticam A1 body, the quick-release lever to burp the lens is fiddly to get at, though you do get better at it with practise. Burping probably adds a 10-15 second delay before you're able to start shooting. (I was doing this with strobes too, which needed their arms to be extended and locked in place each time I got in the water as well, so it meant about a 30 second delay in total). My approach to this was to hang back from the group, as we were all going to drift past the mantas anyway (it also meant fewer other snorkelers or errant fins in my frame), but in an environment where the group might frighten off your subject this would be a constant frustration.

If this is your primary use-case for the WWL-1, then a WACP-C sounds like a more practical option.

Shane

[Phil Rudin 426]

I have used both with the A-1 camera and my choice would be WACP-C with the higher resolution cameras. Also WACP-C uses a simple N100 30 port extension rather then the more expensive flat port 45 and bayonet mount. Cost difference is around $1400.00 more for WACP-C but I think it is worth the cost difference to avoid the additional flat port glass water interface and the size and weight difference over WACP-1 make it a better travel choice. 

[phil.elsasser 10]

I think you have all convinced me the WACP-C is the way to go here! Very much appreciate all the responses. 

[Floris Bennema 20]

I don't understand what I do right. Like pooley I have a WWL-1, and although I  jumped from boats many time I only once had bubbles between the port and the lens. 

[Samhp 1]

I went to Mag Bay last year and shot exclusively a Sigma 15mm fisheye with a sony a7iii, while having more reach at times would have been nice, on the whole it was not a problem, and you do at times get quite close to the action, if you have the fortune of finding a static baitball. I just came back from Moorea to see humpbacks and now shoot a sony a7iv with the 28-60mm lens and WWL-1b, for the first few days I was finding a few bubbles. After that, once jumping in the water I would just give the WWL-1b a quarter turn back and forth and lock it back in place that seemed to take care of any bubbles for me.  

[phil.elsasser 10]

Posted a few shots from the WACP-C here - 

 

Heading to Mag Bay in a few weeks