hyp 115 Posted June 8 I've got a question for those who've used the Backscatter MF1/2 for macro. When you go on a macro dive do you just take the Backscatter Flash or do you also bring your regular pair of strobes. If yes, where do you attach the Backscatter Flash (Third Strobe arm?). I'm currently using the S&S YS-02 (not D2) but would really like to do snoot photography. There is no decent Snoot available for my strobes and upgrading them to say retras/Z330s and then adding a Marelux SOFT is out of budget. A second MF-2 would be in budget, but I'm worried that wide angle will suffer. I'm mostly happy with the performance of the YS-02 so I don't need the most powerful strobe out there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davehicks 123 Posted June 8 I use a combo of an MF-2 and inon 330 for macro, and sometimes for wide angle if I expect mostly CFWA shooting. A third strobe seems unwieldy. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrchen911 17 Posted June 12 I'm in the same boat as you, trying to figure out how to best manage the MF2 and its array of accessories. I do a lot of shallow ~15ft shore dives for macro in SE Florida (BHB, Pompano, etc.). On an AL80, I can be underwater for 2 to 2.5 hours. With my HP120, I can do 3.5 hours. I could be wrong, but I'm under the impression the MF2 batteries might not last the entire dive if I'm using the focus light on the snoot. To alleviate my concerns about battery life, I've been mounting a different brand strobe on the right arm and an MF2 on the left arm. I have only been shooting single strobe depending on whether I want to use the snoot or not. I recently purchased another MF2, and it's going on the muck stick. I'll move the snoot to the strobe on the muck stick. If I get enough dives in with these strobes and see that the batteries hold up, then I probably won't take any other strobes. If they don't last, then I'll continue bringing another strobe. Could someone share their experience with how long the batteries last? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davehicks 123 Posted June 13 The mf2 will easily last for at least 300 shots at per 6-7 with the spotting light on. I suggest using the lowest power on the spotting light if you plan multiple dives or >300 shots. I did a single dive yesterday and shot 220 pictures with an inon 330 and mf2 on pwr 6. No problems. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrchen911 17 Posted June 13 5 minutes ago, davehicks said: The mf2 will easily last for at least 300 shots at per 6-7 with the spotting light on. I suggest using the lowest power on the spotting light if you plan multiple dives or >300 shots. I did a single dive yesterday and shot 220 pictures with an inon 330 and mf2 on pwr 6. No problems. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tie 1 Posted July 4 How do you secure the snoot when not using it? Lanyard to the strobe arm? Pouch? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
diverareyouok 3 Posted July 5 23 hours ago, tie said: How do you secure the snoot when not using it? Lanyard to the strobe arm? Pouch? It fits into my jacket pocket (just barely, but it does fit). I’ve seen people attaching it to a D-ring with the narrow end lashed down so it doesn’t float, though. A pouch would almost certainly be a solid choice, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davehicks 123 Posted July 6 Here is a picture. I use a 6" run of 1/8 bungie tied to a small boltsnap and the snoot. I ziptie a Din Oring to the ball mount and clip the snoot to that. I always have it clipped off, and just tear loose the snoot and let it dangle when not in use. You can clip it to your camera handles, BC D-ring, or whatever works for you as needed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IDS3ven 1 Posted July 6 Is that standard plumbers putty on the cable connection Dave? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davehicks 123 Posted July 6 (edited) 46 minutes ago, IDS3ven said: Is that standard plumbers putty on the cable connection Dave? No, it is a soft silicone molding putty called Sugru. It provides some flexible protection for the fiber optic cable. Been using these for years. But it's kind of crude and messy. Recently, I've been experimenting with using my 3D printer to make customized optical connectors with a soft silicone like plastic called TPU. The result is something a lot cleaner, but I have not dove it yet. I hope to tomorrow. Edited July 6 by davehicks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedPixel 1 Posted July 6 16 hours ago, davehicks said: No, it is a soft silicone molding putty called Sugru. It provides some flexible protection for the fiber optic cable. Been using these for years. But it's kind of crude and messy. Recently, I've been experimenting with using my 3D printer to make customized optical connectors with a soft silicone like plastic called TPU. The result is something a lot cleaner, but I have not dove it yet. I hope to tomorrow. Does that mean you are augmenting the already existing connector like a strain relief or are you creating the entire connector with TPU? I am new to fiber cables at leas under water so interested in things I should be looking out for. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davehicks 123 Posted July 6 2 hours ago, RedPixel said: Does that mean you are augmenting the already existing connector like a strain relief or are you creating the entire connector with TPU? I am new to fiber cables at leas under water so interested in things I should be looking out for. I made a couple of designs that are full replacements. One is a straight connector of 100% TPU which will work similarly to the one in the photo. The second connector design I printed is a 90 deg elbow. The elbow is hard plastic (PETG) and the connector tip is TPU as is a strain relief on the opposite side. I will post about these and share the designs after I have refined them and tested them out for a number of dives. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
