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Alex_Mustard

Digital sunbursts - the saga continues

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Hi Will, welcome to Wetpixel.

 

In theory your idea would work. However, and this may be entirely due to my PS skills, but whenever i have tried to use the Shadow/High.. tool it has created a huge amount of "noise" in my photos that is just not acceptable for what i use my photos for.

I have to create 18x12 inch 300dpi 56mb files for an agency and at that size reducing noise is hugely important to the quality of the photo.

 

Again, as i said it may be me but i have not had good luck with that tool

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Of course, it's always best to avoid problems in camera. BUT, I've had fairly good results from Nikon Caputure with NEF files, using the D-Lighting and vignetting tools -- not perfect, but they seem better than what I get in PhotoShop.

 

Regards,

Chris

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I Finally got around to doing some proper post processing of my pictures from march....I came across this sunball. I think this is my best sunball so far. The backscatter is horid, but I think the sunball is quite nice.

 

1/250th F/18 ISO 100

 

crw_8916.jpg

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Ah William we think alike. I was just admiring your sunburst and thought to myself.....ahhh if only i had ISO 100, then the knife in the gut follows with your next post....sigh.....and sigh again

 

Anyone know the minimum ISO of that kidney sale inspired D2X?

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Anyone know the minimum ISO of that kidney sale inspired D2X?

 

Mine has been stuck on ISO 100 since I got it. But I was planning on trying 200 or even 400 with my new filter experiments, soon.

 

Alex

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Ok, Mr Heaton this one is for you. Thought i would add the appropriate subject for you....

 

As you can see, the obscuring of the sun makes in my mind at least a very nice photo with readily frozen rays. The unobscured sun, again rays are frozen and i was able to balance the exposure due to it being a CFWA. But i think the sun still a little overpowering but not too bad. I still don't think this will work very well with larger creatures that you can't get close enough to to light up properly with an f8 or f11. But that is ok, i have just decided its time for a compositional change of style anyways....

Depth is about 20 feet. Shot with D70, ISO 200, YS120s diffused on full power

 

Obscured sun, f13, 1/800

Non obscured sun, f14, 1/800

post-2598-1119097577_thumb.jpg

post-2598-1119097752_thumb.jpg

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I have no trouble with sunbursts but hey Thats one of the advantages of FILM. Believe it or not there are some others as well. Mark

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Ok, Mr Heaton this one is for you.  Thought i would add the appropriate subject for you....

 

I must admit I do like the subject......

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I have no trouble with sunbursts but hey Thats one of the advantages of FILM. Mark

 

Come on then, Mark. Put your money where your mouth is. Let's see a couple! :)

 

Alex

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Can anyone direct me as to where I can get some circular neutral density filters for my 10-22 (77mm)? Not the one's from Berkley as they've yet to come out. I'm having trouble locating any of them online.

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Hi Laz,

 

B & H has a crapload of them - I don't have a direct link to the ND filters page there, but I do have it at work. I'll post it on Monday. Hard, soft, glass, resin, circular and threaded, square cokin mount, etc.

 

OK, hereya go - 77mm threaded Heliopan:

 

1 Stop: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller...u=101235&is=REG

 

2 Stop: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller...u=101236&is=REG

 

Most grad neutral density filters are rectangluar and ment to be mounted so that they can slide back and forth on the lens, depending on where the horizon is located in the frame. Might be something to consider for your split shots Laz.

 

Cheers

James

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Might be something to consider for your split shots Laz.

 

Shhh!! Don't say it sooo loud. You're giving away all my secrets. Good thing no one knows about my special chant to the split shot Gods before I take a photo! :)

 

These filters you mentioned are squared, no? I'm looking for a circular one like the one in Wetpixel news posting. I've been staring at this PC way too long today and I can't find them on B&H.

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No Laz, the ones James has linked to above are 77mm diameter circular threaded, as shown in the Backscatter equipment. The clever thing Berkely has done is use a zoom collar to rotate the ND filter to the position needed, rather than being stuck with a single orientation.

 

By the way, if there is a custom filter you want made, such as a split dioptre+ND combo, you should contact the nice people at Singh-Ray Filters. They will custom make filters to your specifications at very high quality. You could get them to make split ND's in 77mm ring mounts that have the border at 1/4 into the frame rather than half way, for instance.

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Fantastic! Thanks for the info James and Craig. I appreciate it.

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Marcus - that article is dangerous. He states, "Hackers probably would mess with RAW," as a mysterious alterhative to underexposing by two stops, but every serious photographer should be shooting in RAW these days, and there is simply no reason to be shooting in JPG unless you have storage, buffer, or assignment constraints.

 

You will ruin your image if you underexpose by two stops.

 

In the worst case (if you are afraid of the RAW workflow, as so many people I've met are), you can just batch convert everything to JPG, and you're right back to where you would have been if you had shot JPG in the first place.

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Also, with cheaper cameras (D100) low light digital noise is a biotch to deal with once the image is created. I just got back from Detroit where I shot some houses in Greenfield Village. To get the nice colors in the sky, including whites, I stepped down the exposure. However, I got more noise in the sky as a result when compared to a proper exposure. Even in RAW, you can't rid yourself of noise. The more you try (noice reduction in PS) and tweak to get the image to look right the more you degrate the quality of the image.

 

But I concur that it is very frustrating using the D100 (or any other camera) in low light or just when I want to be creative with my lighting. There ain't much flexibility in exposure with opposing ends of DR.

 

Joe

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Hi Eric

Agree the article might be dangerous if taken at face value, but I know Ken..he's really into simplification and shoots in JPG. And he's a land photographer whose main camera is the D70. But there is some interest in what he says about digital cameras being not able to capture highlights simply because of software designed by engineers, not artists (or underwater photographers!) because of commercial pressures (noise/numbers/charts) and all it would take is a firmware revision/software hack.

 

Of course I shoot in RAW. Also, the subject of this topic is getting sunbursts on digital. Mr Mustard, in his earlier posts, alluded to underexposing and then post-processing to control the sunburst. I also find this from my experience.

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I've also been using Craig Jone's green and magenta filtering scheme and I think it helps. I played around with the histogram of selected areas around the sunball. The sharp turquoise ring in the photo Alex labelled "yuk" at the begining of the thread is cause by having both green and blue channels clipped while the red is still ramping up. Comparing it to my turtle shot below taken with a green filter over the lens, while  I think this one is also a little over exposed, the green channel is still varing close to the white area and the transition from blue to turquoise to white is not as sharp.

 

First time reading the whole thread on digital sunbursts. Noticed a reference to Craig Jone's technique for capturing digfital sunburst mentioned in the above quote.

 

Herb, can you elaborate on the physical aspects of this technique.

 

Any pointers in the right direction for more information on this technique would be greatly appreciated also.

 

 

thanks,

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After reading all these threads, I am still a bit confused. I am not sure what is considered a good sunball? I assume that when possible, you would want sunball with lots of ray and is mostly white with not lots of blue fringe!

Is this correct? Here is a sample from my recent trip, not the greatest picture, viz was kind of crappy.

baracuda1.jpg

10.5mm, iso100, 1/80, F22 . Unfortunately since I only had a few seconds during the quick swim by barracudas, the position of the aparture knob was just easier for me to adjust quickly.

The picture was then manipulated a bit more with level, brightness/contrast and shadow/highlight and that's about it.

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First time reading the whole thread on digital sunbursts. Noticed a reference to Craig Jone's technique for capturing digfital sunburst mentioned in the above quote.

 

Herb, can you elaborate on the physical aspects of this technique. 

 

Any pointers in the right direction for more information on this technique would be greatly appreciated also.

thanks,

 

Use a magenta filter on the lens and compensating green filter on the strobes so that things illuminated by the strobes have the correct color balance.

 

Do a search on this site for Craig's posts.

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