Titan ROC troubles

[carib-blu 0]

Good afternoon, We just got back from our brief trip to Little Cayman and only got 2 dives in because of weather. I had a problem on the first dive with my Light and Motion Titan housing/ROC control. The left grip would not let me change shutter speed at all. The controls for the strobe power worked fine, indicating the battery for the handle is good, but the shutter speed up or down buttons did NOT function. The right handle which controls F-stop worked fine. The D100 inside was set at a 125th so I did manage a few images by adjusting strobe power. Has any other Titan/D100 user experienced the same malfunction? I will try replacing the batteries to start, although I saw no indication that the handle batteries were going low....Thanks in advance

 

john

[Kasey 0]

On the E20 TItan and Mako the handle controls could be swapped on command. This helps to diagnose the problem ie. you can try controlling the fstop with the left handle and the ss with the rt - this will help you confirm that the handle itself is malfunctioning. How many dives on the housing? I had problems with the older versions of this housing after many dives the orings in the buttons would dry out - they would stick in the down position and cause problems.

[Alex_Mustard 0]

Sorry to hear of your problems, John. Don't have any experience with the L&M housing - but all the best in getting it sorted out. Alex

[UWPhotoTech 0]

The routing of the hot shoe cord from the tray up to the hot shoe can sometimes cause this problem. The cord can block the input window on the tray from receiving the infrared signals from the fiber optic cords. Make sure the cord is routed away from the lens mount on the camera and once installed in the housing lift the cord slack above the hot shoe so the cord does not show through the LCD window.

 

If this does not help you can test the handles by removing them and pointing them into the lens of any video camera. You will be able to see the infrared signal on the video camera display, it will look like a blue flashing light. I have seen a few bad switches in the grips.

[carib-blu 0]

Thanks for the advice Dave, we did the video infrared test today and everything is fine. I talked to Light and Motion on the phone today and here is what is happening.....Inadvertently, I picked the housing up and pushed 3 control buttons at the same time. When you do this, it locks the board up for that side and to reset the board/grip, batteries on that grip must be removed. It was strange that this morning, I had one of the two batteries for the left grip in my pocket, and everything worked as normal. I was really confused at this point. The tech people at L&M told me about the resetting procedure. While we were testing the output of each grip via video camera, as you advised here, I noticed a problem on the right l.e.d. screen on the tray. When advancing strobe power on the right strobe, when we got to the fifth led, 4 other led's lit up. I told Russ at Light and Motion about it and a new camera tray/board is on the way. I can use what I have in the mean time until the new tray arrives.....Thanks for the input, a weekend full of diving just ahead and we'll see how everything works now. Earth Week is in full swing and we have a bunch of stuff to clean off our reefs here in Cayman after Ivan....I will post any follow ups about this Titan housing if need be. Thanks again gang! As Larry says.....WE Got 'er Done!

 

Aurabest,

john

[UWPhotoTech 0]

LED's not lighting on the Titan D100 are caused by pushing on the LED Display. The connector legs on the LED Board to the Main PCB lift away from the board from the pressure. The connector legs simply need to be resoldered. It will be good to have a backup tray anway, but I would certainly get the original board fixed. Unless this is a warranty exchange of course.

[Kelpfish 15]

If you are working inside of the battery chamber, purchase new, longer screws. The way L&M designed the battery cap minimizes the battery cap screw engagement to about 1/8 of an inch. Any salt corrosion will eat away the threads after a few removals of the cap screw. This happened to me on a trip and rendered the housing useless. The battery cap screw thread size

4-40 X 3/8 Allan cap screw. However, I purchased from McMAster Carr longer screws because there is plenty of unused thread depth on the handle. According to L&M they are going to change the screw length after accepting my recommendation, but I didn't want to wait. For a few bucks you can get some stainless cap screws. I think I got 1/4" and 7/16" to cover the gamut. Havent installed the screws yet, but will let you know what size to end up with.

 

Joe

[carib-blu 0]

Thanks for the heads up on the screw length. Don't think I can find any down here in Cayman...My next trip state-side though, I can sort that out. I did speak with L&M and the warranty board is on the way...To clarify, the LED's work, but when I get to the fifth light from the bottom on the right side, 4 other lights come on too. L&M said there was a problem in the circuit and they would send another board to me right away. Again, thanks for the advice on this issue....I can use it the way it is now, and hopefully the new board will remedy the LED issue!!!

 

Aurabest,

john

[Alex_Mustard 0]

Good to hear its operational again.

Now where are those hamlets?

[carib-blu 0]

Patrick shot them last night...and again tonight...katie and i will join tomorrow night off the back of Don Foster's.....nothing but barred hams still....thanks alex! will post the indigos to you as soon as we get 'em!!! My 105 and gear set are in...not sure if i want to try them out tomorrow or just stick with the 60 for now...any thoughts?

 

Aurabest,

john

[kriptap2 0]

Had a good night for the Barred Hamlets tonight, but that was all, I also noticed some interesting behavior as well, I'm getting to know them now!