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Telar

derway vs MikeO-What about WA?

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I read the thread started by Mason H asking for suggestions for an under $1000 system. I want a complete setup for about $1,500 so it attacted my attention. The info was great (and the subplot of newbie behavior in relation to the advice could have been a comedy script). :)

 

 

Mike & Don, you guys convinced me I need to buy either the Fuji f810 or the Sony V3. At least I was sure until right near the end of the thread. Then didn't you indicate that neither can produce good output u/w with a wide angle lens?

 

Did I misunderstand?

 

Isn't this a pretty big issue?

 

Sincerely,

 

Another Newbie :)

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Sorry to butt in and I don't have experience with the cameras you asked about but...

 

For wide angle you should look at the CP 5000 and 8400. Both have dedicated wide angle add on Nikon lenses that increase the coverage range to that of a Nikonos 15 mm lens. They are both very sharp and affordable. Ikelite makes dome ports for both of these that work very well.

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U/W performance with the INON 105AD and the Fuji F810 is excellent. Maybe not SLR excellent, but certainly quite acceptable.

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Yes, the Fuji works very well with the INON add-on wide-angle lens and Ike makes an adapter that will connect it to his housing. The camera also works quite well with the INON macro lenses. There are some folks over on digital diver that are using the camera right now so you might want to post there to get their opinions as well. If you look at Ike's page for the V3 housing it says that you can connect WA lenses to the housing but will get vignetting. Don definitely has more experience with that camera than me, though -- I'm just quoting what Ike's site says . . .

 

As for it being a big issue; it might be if it's important to you!

 

Mike

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Mike, 70% of my diving will be drift diving. So my subjects will tend to be medium to large reef fish. Due to the pull of the group on a drift dive (not wanting the DM to have to come back to get me 8-( ) I won't get a chance to do much macro, at least not of the shy rascals.

 

I assume the larger the subject, generally the more a WA lens is appropriate, yes? Also, I was told your b flat 35 mm lens would be considered WA on the surface, but u/w the field narrows due to refraction, making it effectively closer to a 50 mm. Based on these assumptions I figued WA would be important to me.

 

So, are my assumptions correct? What do you think about my conclusions?

 

Anybody else have an opinion?..want to jump in? Feel free. 8-)

 

Don, what about the Sony V3? (See the beginning of the thread. Thought that would be enough bait to attract you. 8-0)

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Ikelite says you have to zoom in "a bit", from max wide zoom, to get the WA addons to stop vignetting. I don't know how much.

 

For large subjects that let you get close, WA is good. For fast things, and large things that keep their distance, medium zoom to medium wide is good.

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Sorry to butt in and I don't have experience with the cameras you asked about but...

 

For wide angle you should look at the CP 5000 and 8400. Both have dedicated wide angle add on Nikon lenses that increase the coverage range to that of a Nikonos 15 mm lens. They are both very sharp and affordable. Ikelite makes dome ports for both of these that work very well.

 

True as I used to shoot a 5000 but, the 810 does not have a shutter lag and has a very fast start-up. Something to keep in mind if shooting large subjects on the move in current.

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True as I used to shoot a 5000 but, the 810 does not have a shutter lag and has a very fast start-up. Something to keep in mind if shooting large subjects on the move in current.

 

The shutter lag on the CP8400 is greatly reduced compared to the 5000 and the CP8400 start up time is pretty much instant. The addition of the Nikon 18mm wide angle lens to this camera in the Ike domeport is an outstanding wide angle setup - I'm really starting to enjoy shooting this lens!

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