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rschrager

Removing scratches from a dome port

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Bite the bullet and get the MicroMesh.  It will make the dome look like new again!  It only looks scary, it's really pretty satisfying to see the results after the initial shock of the frosted dome on the first pass.

Edited by davehicks

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I can only chime in and recommend this product. It takes some work, but the result is extremely good.

Best regards,

Henrik

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I can't count the times I've used MicroMesh and the result is always outstanding. For scratches on my macro port I've created a velcropad for my Dremel and cut small round pieces to fit - that makes scratch removal SOOO much faster :-D

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Hello,

What do you think about this guy technic to remove scratches from a dome port?

Seems very scary to me !

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On 6/16/2005 at 10:00 AM, Alex_Mustard said:

....
Now we need something that will work on glass domes too!

 

Alex

GP14004 Fine Grade Glass Polishing Compound, Glass Polishing Solution 3.4oz buff the glass on my Zen dome: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF8KE0S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used these in a drill press: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JIK72X0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It would take a long time to polish a real scratch, but I think a lot of times, it's just the coating that gets nicked, and this stuff cleaned it right up.

Edited by Xterra

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Posted (edited)

So I decided to try out the technique used by the guy on youtube a couple of posts before this one.

I have a pretty scratched Meikon dome which I was going to discard to purchase a new one. Since all the items used are readily available in our hardware store (I live on an island in the Caribbean) I decided to give it a go.

In short: DO NOT ATEMPT TO DO THIS! IT DOES NOT WORK!

Sure maybe I did something wrong but I can assure you I did exactly what he did and the end result is horrendous.

Here my scratched dome before doing anything:

IMG_8405.jpg.ab8a8889adf535b4968f6791ece34acc.jpg

Here is what I used: 3M wetordry 400, 600 and 1500 sandpaper and Brasso.... 

IMG_8412.JPG.dea3545141f1669dc52a5d14ebb750c0.JPGIMG_8413.JPG.c8b00c88dffcee8cd1e20bf46a0233e5.JPG

Here is the dome after the 400 sandpaper:

IMG_8416.JPG.187c1c037a29f9463d725d8f5459a48a.JPG

Here after the final 1500 sand paper:

IMG_8418.JPG.2311a56768b1e9ded28b68551d69894f.JPG

And here after applying Brasso multiple times (not pretty at all):

IMG_8420.JPG.d9aa9368777ce4620c41c2a7794c8da2.JPG

I even tried the 1500 again for a couple of minutes and the Brasso again, no use. You can even see the difference on the lower edge where I could not really get to. There it is still OK:

IMG_8422.jpg.d01ce7745c594ec78530acb81f7e5d72.jpg

So there you have it. Do it the proper way. This was just an inexpensive scratched dome so all is good, but you do not want to ruin an expensive dome with this technique!

IMG_8418.JPG

IMG_8420.JPG

Edited by CUR-Diver

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Yours looks like my first attempt with micromesh. It turned out, that it really takes a long long time to sand the scratches out. Second attempt worked for me. Of course I cannot vouch for this particular product or method, but it’s important to do it correctly too. 

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4 hours ago, hyp said:

Yours looks like my first attempt with micromesh. It turned out, that it really takes a long long time to sand the scratches out. Second attempt worked for me. Of course I cannot vouch for this particular product or method, but it’s important to do it correctly too. 

Thanks for your input. The initial scratches are gone. The surface looks very smooth and scratch free. Yet after the 1500 and the brasso the surface looks pale and mirky. I seriously doubt that it will improve with longer sanding and more brasso. Any suggestions or additional comments are welcome. Since the dome is at this stage I am willing to test further. 

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Get some actual micro mesh.  It's nine grades from 1500 - 12,000.  And why in the world are you using brasso?  Also take off the Hood so you can access the whole dome.

Sit down with a bowl of water, a few towels, and watch a movie for TWO hours while you go through the nine grades.  It seems like you took a short cut with just three.  And get rid of the brasso, you don't need that.

 

https://www.amazon.com/SANDING-SHEETS-INTRODUCTORY-Peachtree-Woodworking/dp/B000H6HIK2/ref=asc_df_B000H6HIK2/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584345024990910&psc=1

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Though I certainly had better results than yours, I was never fully satisfied with my results using things like micromesh, brasso, etc. My domes were usable afterwards but not perfect (still a tad hazy). More recently I purchased an inexpensive ($70) benchtop buffer and got near-perfect results (and with so much less effort). Just be sure to use a soft buffing wheel and a compound made for plastics if you go this route, and obviously keep the dome moving (buffing the same spot too long could lead to problems).

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1 hour ago, davehicks said:

Get some actual micro mesh.  It's nine grades from 1500 - 12,000.  And why in the world are you using brasso?  Also take off the Hood so you can access the whole dome.

Sit down with a bowl of water, a few towels, and watch a movie for TWO hours while you go through the nine grades.  It seems like you took a short cut with just three.  And get rid of the brasso, you don't need that.

 

https://www.amazon.com/SANDING-SHEETS-INTRODUCTORY-Peachtree-Woodworking/dp/B000H6HIK2/ref=asc_df_B000H6HIK2/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584345024990910&psc=1

Read my post. I wanted to see if the technique (used by the guy in the youtube video) worked.

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1 hour ago, Isaac Szabo said:

Though I certainly had better results than yours, I was never fully satisfied with my results using things like micromesh, brasso, etc. My domes were usable afterwards but not perfect (still a tad hazy). More recently I purchased an inexpensive ($70) benchtop buffer and got near-perfect results (and with so much less effort). Just be sure to use a soft buffing wheel and a compound made for plastics if you go this route, and obviously keep the dome moving (buffing the same spot too long could lead to problems).

Worth a try. Thanks for your input!

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9 minutes ago, CUR-Diver said:

Read my post. I wanted to see if the technique (used by the guy in the youtube video) worked.

But why? There are 7 pages here over several years with people explaining how to do it properly.  Why follow some youtube bozo?

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