Jump to content
kriptap

20D Matthias adapter

Recommended Posts

I ordered one from Matthias to try it out, when I got it I tried to solder it but the instructions were not very clear and it didn't work so I sent it to him to fix up. I got it back yesterday and gave it a try, not good news, it still don't work! there is a pot attached to it that will let you tune it, all setting except 2 fire the strobes underpowered and the same intensity and the other 2 setting fire a full power load each time.

 

I wanted to try the second curtain sync with it, but after 2 days and 10 email back and forth between Matthias and I, it simple does not work. There are 7 setting on it, one is manual mode the other compensates + 1,2,3 and - 1,2,3 manual mode fires the strobes fine but the other modes are always very underexposed. I have tried everything with it nothing works, has anyone tried this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mathias just updated my 300D unit with the 2nd curtain sync firmware and it works perfect with my DS-125. Don't touch that power dial on the converter, the +/-0 setting is fine. I have a YS90DX that works fine too, I'm waiting for my dual sync cable to use both strobes...

 

As far as I know, the DS-125 with serial numbers below 5000 need the Ikelite update (see: http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/ustrobettl.html ) to work fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Converter’s on board +/- compensation (units are less than f-stops) is for equalizing different strobe characteristics which might occur even with identical strobe types. If fine tuning compensation is required I would use it. But if the results do not fit at all, the compensation does not help of course.

Somehow the 300D still seems to be the reference root for the converter :D

 

Julian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please excuse my ignorance.

Can you explain what kind of effect are you going for with "rear curtain" flash sinc in an underwater photo?

 

Thanks a lot.

 

Hugo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have spent a lot of time with this now and had some good friends help out, no matter what I do to the adapter all exposures come out under exposed, I have the camera exposure set to maximum, which helps but still under exposed. The TTL function does work, but only underexposed, I can shoot on 2.8 all the way to 32, all images look the same, underexposed by about 3 stops? The ike strobes I have are the newest and I tried it with a YS125, same results.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And you are sure the switch is not dialed to -3?

I use +/-0, center weighted AF (this influences the flash exposure, ettl tries to expose the subject on the focus point) and M mode with ISO 100. Post an image of your bulkhead wiring - maybe you did something wrong?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Matthias wired it, I tried it just how he sent it, then changed the settings as they did not work, did you mean you use it on M mode, that would fire a full burn every time. <_<

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Manaul mode at the camera, of course. 1/125" and F8, for example. As I said before: Don't touch that power dial on the converter....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

that's interesting because a friend of mine was instructed by Matthias to use the dial in order to achieve proper results with a certain strobe (his Z220) and his 300D. However, I won't get such described offsets with a system gun if the subject fills the frame, no matter if center average, matrix or selective metering is activated. I guess something else is wrong, the described results do not sound typical for E-TTL. And 20D flash metering is not bound to certain modes like it is the case with the 300D.

 

Julian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the settings right, it just don't work, oh well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sponsors

Advertisements



×
×
  • Create New...