LCD magnifier install onto Ikelite housing

[bobf 0]

After numerous tests in salt water, I have determined that it is possible to add the UN LCD hood magnifier securely to an Ikelite housing with the use of a home made rail system, similar to that found molded into UN (Olympus) housings. I am positive that the rail system will not impede on any controls for my 6130.1 housing. I also believe that the rail system will work on the Fuji 810 Ike housing. I hope to have 100% confirmation soon.

 

The first point I'd like to make is that the back of an Ikelite 6130.1 housing is made from Acrylic, not polycarbonate as the front is. I received this information directly from Ike. Ike also graciously suggested to me that in order to adhere anything to the housing back, a solvent type adhesive would be the correct choice (in the past I tried without success Marine Goop and Devcon Two Ton Epoxy). Weld-On #16 was recommended by the Acrylic Plexiglas supplier. Weld-On #16 is also used in the construction of aquariums.....

[bobf 0]

To begin the construction of the do it yourself rail system I purchased a small amount of 1/8" clear Acrylic Plexiglas. Using a friend's router table, I removed approximately 3/32" (a little more than half of it's thickness) of Plexiglas from one end. Then using a band saw, I cut 3/16" from the end.

[bobf 0]

To help better explain, here's one more photo:

[bobf 0]

The next step is to cut the rail into two (2)1 5/8" lengths, which is equivalent to the length of the channels molded into the UN LCD Hood Magnifier.

 

Once temporarily installed, notice how 3/16" width of Plexiglas rail allows for slightest overhang of

Plexiglas over the rubber magnifier back to create the gluing surface.

[bobf 0]

Prior to any gluing, I used electrical tape (not shown) to protect any excess glue from contacting the rubber hood.

 

After both rails were cut to size, I slid them into the hood magnifier grooves (as shown above, but cut to proper length). The Plexiglas rails fit snugly and insure that they will be properly centered when Magnifier assembly is placed onto the housing back.

 

I cleaned the Acrylic housing surface to be glued (I used MEK because I have it). Then I set the Magnifier assembly (with rails in place within the magnifier channels) on the housing back. Next I outlined the proper placement area with electrical tape to act as a guide for eventual placement of Magnifier assembly onto the housing back. To protect the rubber adjacent to the channels from excess glue, I taped the rubber hood off with electrical tape. Finally, I applied a thin amount of Weld-On #16 to the exposed Acrylic surface of the rails, using the point of a pin, and carefully set the assembly onto it's proper place on the housing back. I let it sit for 24 hours to insure the glue cured properly. I then removed the UN LCD Magnifier, leaving the rails glued in their proper position on the Ikelite housing back

[bobf 0]

I have tested the glue for strength. It appears solid. I have also tested the system several times in salt water conditions. The solvent appears to be holding strong.

[james 0]

Bob, that is great! Tell us more about the magnifier, is it bigger than the LCD display, so that it magnifies it but you still can see the full frame?

 

Do you use it for composition w/ your Oly or just for reviewing shots?

 

The only problem I see "for the masses" is that a router is required - a specialty tool for most people.

 

Cheers

James

[Arnon_Ayal 1]

Very nice project, looks impressive.

Need to test it on the my wife's WP-DC 300 housing, any ideas how much this UN LCD Magnifier cost?

[bobf 0]

Thanks james (and welcome home!)

 

imho, the LCD Hood Magnifier is a great addition to a point and shoot system for anyone in need of reading glasses ( I have no affiliation with UN )

 

The UN LCD Hood Magnifier is originally designed as an addition for the PT series Olympus housings. The rail system to receive the hood magnifier is incorporated directly into the mold of many of the PT series. When underwater and looking through the magnifier, the complete LCD is viewable (and then some). The hood blocks stray sunlight from hitting the screen, one downside of any LCD screen. The magnifier increases magnification (20%?)to the point that the image on the screen is discernable and all data displayed in the LCD is readable without the need to view through presciption diopters (which are traditionally placed at the bottom of dive masks forcing the neck way back in order to take advantage of when "shooting up" in the water column).

 

I can now compose in the LCD viewfinder. I can see the aperture and shutter speed readout. And in combination with the green (blinking) light, I can confirm if focus has been achieved.

 

b

[bobf 0]

Very nice project, looks impressive.

Need to test it on the my wife's WP-DC 300 housing, any ideas how much this UN LCD Magnifier cost?

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Check with forum sponsor Reef Photo & Video:

 

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[geggle 0]

This looks very interesting. But why couldn't the magnifier be velcroed on like people have done with the xtendaview? Anyone try this?

I'm not knocking this install, it seems practically bullet proof; but I'm lazy, and mechanicly challenged, so I tend to gravitate toward the "Keep It Simple" school.

[Graham Abbott 0]

Experimentation can often bring many fantastic results, this is how real creative artists work... If you can seal it safely why not get it and try. it may not be great for everything, but you may find something that you can create with it that may look fantastic???

 

If you an artistic mind and the money to experiment then it might just be worth the try. There again, it may be a total loss?

[abernat 0]

Hi,

 

I'm looking at adding the UN LCD magnifier (assuming I can find one) to my FIX S-90 housing which has rails. Can you tell me the spacing of the rails on the housing? Looks like the FIX has a separation of 44 mm +-.

 

Thanks,

Andy