if you are snorkeling (primarily) with occasional dives. I would really consider NOT buying that housing for your canon. Instead buy a compact (used you can get cheaper) with a wide angle lens.
Remember the number one rule for underwater photography. Get Close. A wide angle lens will let you get close to your subjects and get it all in the image. You can also shoot WA more easily with available light. Something you cannot do easily, if at all, with Macro or "normal" focal lengths
I think if you look for a wide angle compact system, you will have a lot of fun and will get more images that you will be happy with.
Although your canon has better quality than a compact, it will not take great photos with a normal lens (even at 18mm behind a flat port) with a lot of distance between you and the subject. Also, you can get spectacular photos with a compact, they are very capable today.
also a compact camera will be easier to snorkel/dive with if you aren't used to it.
A quick search in the classifieds showed this guys is selling something that would suit you very well (no affiliation)
The acrylic on the dome is in great condition; the aluminum has minor cosmetic blemishes. Comes with neoprene dome cover and O-ring. The Lens and Fisheye adapter are in very similar condition. Minor wear on body but glass in great shape. This combination gives 15mm equiv. on a APSC NEX 3-7 or a3000-6000.
This is a complete and very nice wide angle combination for the NEX system
Posted by jmauricio
on 23 September 2013 - 05:59 AM
There are a ton of resources/comments/articles on wetpixel and online to help minimize it. I suggest a search on the beginners forums. There is also a great book by Martin Edge called The Underwater Photographer, which deals extensively with wide angle issues. Many experienced underwater photographers consider it their bible.
I'm no expert and am still stymied by backscatter fairly regularly given the amount of particulate in the water in Miami. However, these are steps i've used to minimize the impact.
1) Get Closer. old cliche, yes, but really does work.
2) Play with your lighting positions. two examples
a) Angle your strobes slightly away from the subject so you are lighting with the edges of the light cone. This seems counter-intuitive b/c you are not pointing the lights at the subject, but it works.
b) move your strobes a little further out from your camera. I often get hot spots b/c my strobes are too close.
Check your lcd often and adapt your angle/lighting as needed. Sadly there is no one thing that prevents it. What works in one situation might not work in others.
Ah I see. so these insurance comanies are more geared towards personal health insurance vs gear insurance, though they do have the option of insuring gear as well. That makes more sense.
I might have to reconfirm this, but when i buy travel health insurance, I'm pretty sure it covers getting bent. I'm in canada, and Canada has universal healthcare, so I think that would cover it as well, though I'd likely have to pay for it myself first.
I would get travel insurance when I lived in the UK. My advice is to check the fine print, some permit diving to your certification and others limit you to 30ft/10m. Also you will need to check the amount they will pay out in case of an accident. But these are easy to spot once you know what you are looking for.
Ok, took me a little while to get the photos processed and put together. At the link below you can find some of the results. I did not get to do all the tests I wanted due to weather. However, I think the below is fairly representative.
The Rokinon images show the dome shade in every shot. Eyeballing the Sony + FE and Rokinon, I thought the Rokinon sat in a better position relative to the dome. But this is not the case, the Rokinon sits a tad too far back.
I'm sure a focus or aperture gear could be designed for the Rokinon to change one of those.
Min focus is much better than infinity, but that should be obvious
Read the captions! They, hopefully, offer detailed descriptions.