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  2. Hey Aqua Kahuna I agree with John. You need a strobe(s). There is no problem starting with one. A Z330 would be a good choice - as would a good second hand Z240. They have proved to be very reliable. Eventually you will want to get a second one and it'd be a good plan to have the same as the first one you buy. If it's going to take you a while to get to two, it might be wise to go for a Z330 as these are new and will be around for a good time. Z240s have been around years and will get harder to find - although there's plenty around on the second hand market at the moment.
  3. Thanks so much for the reply John, good to know! Maybe I could focus on some macro work until I can afford strobes. Would I need something like the Z330s or similar, or is there something which would be ok that you could recommend for around half the price for an amatuer? I'm getting a bit bamboozled the more I look into it, it's like a rabbit hole!!!
  4. Which wired TTL converter would you use? The UW Technics TTL converter supports wired, but if it doesn't support the D3's via fiber, will it support via wired?
  5. Maybe for macro, but for anything else you need strobes.
  6. Hi all, Seeing if anyone has any housing (plus lens ports) for sale to fit A7R ii, A7 ii. Otherwise I'll buy a Seafrogs! Please put price in AUD, NZD, Euro or Pound, must be willing to ship to Aus. Serious buyer. Thanks heaps!
  7. Hi everyone, I'm looking to start my underwater photography world (post GoPro) with a Sony A7R ii once I find a housing, can I still get decent images from video lights (2x Light & Motion 2500 sola SF) instead (or before I can afford to) of dropping a fortune on strobes? Thanks for any feedback!
  8. Hi everyone! Newbie here, looking for recommendations on housing options for a A7R ii - without paying a fortune, am thinking of a Seafrogs if I can't find anything else (also open to secondhand).. any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  9. Hi everyone! I'm from Tasmania, Australia! I love (and have only) dived in temperate and cold waters. One day very soon I will hit warm water. I have currently started my DM and am also a rather inexperienced (I'm working on it!) Freediver. I've just purchased a camera (Sony A7R ii) and am hoping to get a housing before too long. Hopefully interact soon, and if anyone ever heads to Tas, hit me up!
  10. Living in Sydney Australia, we have amazing temperate water diving on our doorstep much of it accessible as shore dives. Corona has caused some restrictions but because the cases were well controlled, apart from about 2 months we have been able to dive locally freely. My favourite from the year is finally finding and getting a pleasing shot of the doughnut nembrotha - Nembrotha rosannulata. These nudis are only found on one series of dive sites off shore south of Sydney, this one was at Barren's Hut - an open ocean site about 500m offshore off the Royal National Park. Boats only run there occasionally and often can't head out due to the weather/swells. I've been wanting to shoot one of these for a long time. I captured this one posing nicely on it's food source - the Purple Acsidian Sigillina cyanea: My other favourite for the year - I finally found a red fingered anglerfish by myself without any directions. This one a grey morph was found near Sutherland point near Kurnell in Botany Bay pretty much straight offshore from where Cook landed all those years ago. Taken on New Year's Eve on an early morning dive in quite nice conditions for Sydney with 10m plus visilbility. A larger image can be found here: Doughnut nembrotha Larger image here:Red Fingered Angler
  11. What a fantastic bunch of images! Thank you all for sharing them.
  12. Wow - this is stunning Ruud, beautiful colours and dynamics, thanks for for sharing these. Impressive results on the R5! I really love the colour balance of well shot ambient light video, wish there was more of this around.
  13. I think that applies to both strobes , but they are a bit Apples and Oranges. INON has a 110° beam bare while S&S has a narrower beam but can get about 100° with a diffuser but the guide number is closer to 24. Add to that guide numbers are a marketing requirement it gets harder still. The backscatter test from a year or two back was a reasonable guide to expectations, but a lot of the new strobes are not included. https://www.backscatter.com/reviews/post/Best-Underwater-Strobe-Flash It's not entirely clear where the angles they quote are measured from The figure to look at seems to be the 60° measurement which is either edge of a 120° beam if I am not mistaken and the strobes are all quite close there.
  14. Nauticam 20mm N85 36620 Mini Extension in excellent condition--------------------------SOLD! Nauticam 7' N85 #36129 Dome Port-New Never Used----------------------------------------------SOLD! Everything else above still for sale. Thank you, Marshall
  15. Note the shot descriptions; left column is shot without diffusers, right column is with a specific diffuser
  16. I cannot tell from that article whether the measurements were taken when shooting with the diffusers on the strobes or not. The Z330 beam pattern does not look very good without a diffuser - and the data shown seems like it corresponds to the pattern without a diffuser. I would feel like it was much more useful if the test was done with diffusers on each of the strobes. Also, it would be nice to see a similar but different test that shows the differences between the strobes when shooting at full dump. If there is no advantage to a brighter strobe, then why do they all keep making them brighter and brighter?
  17. That depends on how uniform the YS-D3's beam is. Tests done by Retra UWT show Z-330's peak illumination to be achieved in a relatively narrow spot.
  18. Also, while I'm on the subject... The YS-D3 specs say it is Guide Number 33, and has a 60 - 70 degree beam. The Inon Z330 specs say it is also GN 33, but with a 110 degree beam. Doesn't that mean the Z330 is actually putting out a lot more light on full dump? Or, to put it another way, illuminating just as well as the YS-D3, but over a much bigger area?
  19. Yep. It seems like Sea&Sea only make a handful of camera housings, and they are for high end cameras. It seems like they are only interested in selling their strobes to people with less expensive cameras (i.e. with a built-in flash), or people with high-end cameras that buy the Sea&Sea housing, and the Sea&Sea trigger that fits in their housing. The seems to translate to "we want people to take our stuff seriously, so we have to make some housings for high-end cameras, so we can have some sponsored pros (aka "brand ambassadors"?) and dealers shooting with our housings and strobes. But, really, all we care about is the lower end of the market."
  20. As I have said, I have been using the Z240s for a year with the UWT trigger and my own cables and they work flawlessly. There seems to be no point in trying Bill's cables with the Inons - which is good since I don't have a Sea&Sea adapter for my Inons, so I can't connect Bill's cable to the Inons anyway.
  21. Looking for Nauticam Port and Zoom Gear for Olympus M.Zuiko Digital 14-42mm 1:3.5-5.6 II R.Port #36136Gear #36143I am located in Hawaii.US Sellers only.Thank you.
  22. Thank you for your answer. Trying not to buy a 230/4. Appreciate your help.
  23. Yesterday
  24. The evidence seems to be that S&S strobe slave sensors are getting progressively less sensitive and is a major cause of complaints when using them. You've got to wonder why this would be. S&S in the manual state clearly they won't work unless you use S&S cables - maybe they are designed to only work with S&S cables and triggers? The reason for the low sensitivity I recall seeing was to prevent false triggering - making a more sensitive slave sensor is most definitely not difficult or costly - S&S just choose not to do it. Going back to your INONs seems to be the most sensible option.
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