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  2. Both the Sea&Sea YS-D3-mark 2 and the Inon Z330-v2 have been reviewed, each by itself, by Mike Bartick and Phil Rudin. Both are excellent reviews and each strobe garnered excellent points, with no significant weaknesses; they weigh about the same, are about the same size, and emit about the same amount of flash. To choose one, it would be useful to know: Has a side by side comparison been published somewhere? If we set aside the ~$200 price difference, Which strobe is preferable and why?
  3. I reviewed the system you are using for the current issue of UWPMAG.com and to me it is the best entry level interchangeable lens camera, lens and housing at the price. Nothing but compact cameras even come close. If you own both cameras then you should have a good grasp of the differences between the two for the type of U/W photography you are doing. The 14-42 kit lens is hard to beat for wide angle with add-on wet lenses like the AOI UWL-09 pro or Nauticam WWL-1B. For macro the 60mm is excellent. Both are supported for the AOI EPL-10 and AOI EM-5 III housings and so is the 8mm fisheye.
  4. Is there a cable which is flexible enough for the 90deg elbow connectors?
  5. With the Sony A1 the 90mm macro is on another level for focus speed and accuracy. Like all modern auto focus macro lenses you get a bit shy of 1:1 using AF so if you want every last bit of magnification the focus gear can help. If I intend to shoot 1:1 and above with a closeup lens I just rack it out to life size and set the lens for MF. That way I am assured the highest magnification with or without a C/U lens like SMC-1 & 2. If you want more info on using the A1 you can read my review in UWPMAG.com back issues #120, this is a free PDF download. You should also look at the blackwater diving in issue #121, to me BW is one of the most demanding types of U/W photography macro photography and the A1 and 90mm do a stellar job with unbeaten AF capability. The FE 90 macro is one of Sony's oldest lenses and a replacement with a more modern design will I am sure be even faster.
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  7. Hi, i am selling my GH5 package, as in the picture, the lense is the Lumix G Vario 12-60 all is in perfect condition. it is in with me in Denmark where i live. Price : 1000 euro
  8. Hi As Tim already mentioned the optical tube can be used as a tying point besides the provided loop on the mounting module. I have nothing to add regarding protection except that we have not seen a meaningful reduction of light output even with scratched front glass. If you decide to use protection fro the LSD this will be for cosmetic reason.
  9. Hi, Are you still looking for a housing for a GX8?  I have the whole kit…even the camera? :)

  10. Hi, My name is Tom, I started diving in the early 90’s and have achieved MSD level. My main hobby is photography and have taken cameras underwater for a number of years, in a number of places. I love to spend time photographing anything from fish, wrecks, coral etc etc. Long may it continue :)
  11. I used to have a Sony A7 and a 90 mm lens. I found the autofocus very slow in low light. The lens might perform better with the new A1. Phil Ruddin might know more about this. But, the price and added weight of the focus gear being minimal, I would get one! BTW, we are looking at going to Bonaire in January from BC and are having issues finding flights. How are you getting there from TO?
  12. Hey folks, I'd love to buy a set of arms (something like 2x5" and 2x9"). * Either a full set for left and right *...or 1x set of iDas 5" and 9" (unfortunately I'm struggling to source these!)
  13. That's a great tip, thank you Tim, I'll experiment a bit.. @Oskar@RetraUWT do you have any other tips on how one can protect and attach the LSD during a dive?
  14. I will soon be picking up my Nauticam A1 housing and accessories while enroute to Bonaire for 3 weeks. Having switched to Sony pre pandemic it will be my first time shooting Sony underwater. For those shooting the Sony 90mm, should I be getting a focus gear for this lens? Thanks in Advance.
  15. Hey All, I am currently using the Olympus EPL10 inside the AOI housing. I also have an Olympus EM5 mark 3 I am wondering if there is any benefit to look into putting this camera in an AOI housing. I understand that I would likely need to buy new ports for this housing (but ill be able to use the 60mm macro and 8mm fisheye from my EPL10). I cant really tell by looking at the camera specs if there is any real benefit; I understand the max flash sync speed is the same (1/250th). Any advice would be appreciated.
  16. The boat will drop you where the skipper hopes they will swim and you hope for the best. They will move faster than you can. Plan to be maneuverable and warm rather than fast in the water. Get some dry gloves and practice using the housing while wearing them. Take a decent snorkel. Any full animal shot will be beyond strobe range and dependant on dingy natural light. As already said, high ISO. If you are allowed strobes, they will only be of use for smile shots if they swim close enough. I did a trip a few years back and had some excellent wreck diving, but no luck with orcas in the water. We only saw orcas on 2 days and never close in-water for good pics. Most trips are luckier than I was. Take a second camera with tele lens for surface shots.
  17. The important point that others say is that cameras do not come first in underwater photography equipment, but housing setting first.
  18. It's a fair point on the edges, Mike. As you say, good chance they might just be of blue. That said though, I'm not sure with these sort of-a-once-in-a-lifetime shots I'd want to take the risk of not worrying about the edges. Orcas and whales are, presumably, slightly slower, but my experience with dolphins zooming about in the Red Sea was I wanted every inch of the image in focus! It sounds an amazing trip.
  19. I've got no direct experience of this trip either, and whilst Tim is correct with his corner comments on the big dome, are you really going to notice soft corners for these shots? If its going to just be plain sea in the corners I'd be thinking far more of taking the smaller dome for the fisheye and the WWL-1 for the other shots. I would have thought the WWL-1 would have significantly less drag than a big dome Mike
  20. I've no experience of dives like that. However if you are using FF and rectilinear you really need a big dome. If the lens is in the 16-35 range, I'd suggest a 230mm dome - nothing smaller or you risk really rubbish edges. Preferably add the Sea&Sea correction lens if you want to avoid the necessary aperture setting too of f11 or smaller to get sharp edges. Although you might be able to bump up the ISO to compensate? Using the Sigma (which I used regularly with a Nikon D800) will let you use a much smaller dome.
  21. Hi, I will be heading to Norway in a few weeks for an orca & whale snorkeling/freediving trip. Strobes/lights are not allowed during this trip It will be dark (4h of daylight per day) I shoot on FF, and expect of bringing a Fisheye (Sigma 15mm) and a rectilinear WA. I also have Nauticam WWL-1 but i fear it will be too cumbersome to freedive with (+significant drag) Big or small dome? With 6/7mm glove (mitts), i don't think I can count on dexterity to quickly modify settings on my camera I never had the opportunity to dive with these animals so I'm welcoming any tips you have (i guess, bumping ISO and fast shutter speeds)! I really don't know what to expect photography-wise.. Thank you!
  22. I regularly (pre lockdown) dived in Thailand. Housing prep in aircon room, at 22°C(72F) and then taking the camera out in 30-34°(86-93F) air temperatures and water temperatures in the range 29-31°C(84-88F). On My Nauticam system I give it 2-3 pumps beyond solid green and I never had any indication of false alarms. The description of the AOI system behaviour by the OP makes me suspect it is faulty.
  23. Hi, I'm considering switching to FF from my APS-C a6500 if the price of the changeover doesn't break the bank. Is the housing still available and perhaps a flash trigger if you had one ( I didn't see it listed). Thanks, Marshall
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