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  1. Today
  2. Hi All, I'm shooting with a Canon R6 with a canon EF 8-15 F4 Fishyeye and a Giosim Housing (a small italian manufacturer). I have a 24 cm dome that i use for WA shots but i would like to try some CFWA shots so i'm looking for a minidome. The manufacturer is proposing me two options: - a 14.5 cm dome (semisferic) -a 10 cm X 4 cm (elliptic) minidome my preference would be for the second one but i'm not sure it will work perfectly with my fisheye being slightly elliptic. With the 14.5 cm dome i don't know if i can obtain real CFWA shots. Any suggestion ?
  3. Bump - Will seperate - also found optical trigger, never used.
  4. A number of underwater pros are shooting with this lens. Do a search on the Gates FB page and you'll find posts from several. Here's one, shot by yours truly. https://www.facebook.com/gates.underwaterproducts/posts/2515868062003182
  5. It's been mentioned a few times on WP, this post : Does not seem like it has had great uptake. The EMWL lenses from Nauticam are getting good reviews though. This post mentions the laowa lens and covers the EMWL optics as well: This is a review of the EMWL lenses:
  6. Selling my back up EM5 Mark II- like new for $400 (retail is $899). Includes camera body, 14-42mm 1:3.5-5.6 Kit lens, battery, cords, cable, charger, SD Card, and Flash. Firmware has been updated to 4.0. Unable to decrease size of photo enough to post here. Please contact me and we can find a way to get the photos to you. Please see the Olympus website for retail photo. Description from Olympus follows: please see Olympus website.
  7. Yesterday
  8. Anyone have a chance to try the Venus Optics Laowa 24mm probe lens underwater? I noticed Nauticam has a port adapter for it and LensRentals.com offers the lens with various camera mounts. Just wondering if anyone’s had any experience using one underwater? Since the widest aperture is f/14 right off the bat I’d imagine you’d want to be cruising at a high ISO and plenty of strobe power. It’s a unique perspective above the surface but I’d love to know if anyone’s taken the plunge to haul that thing around underwater. If that ends up being me then I’ll definitely share the results of my endeavors!
  9. I am considering dropping price on my currently list Ikelite 45deg viewfinder. Are you still interested in a Ikelite viewfinder upgrade?
  10. Chris/Elias - thanks! Some super ideas there. I'll try them out.
  11. I have an Aquatica 8" acrylic dome, shade and cover available for US$320 if you need one!
  12. One thing that might help is to build a small scale model of the gizmo, before purchasing full scale poles and/or pipes. Maybe a 1/2 pipe model, using fabric or plastic sheet or mosquito netting, and trying it out in the pool.
  13. New to Wetpixel and saw this. I would agree with Christophe about 360 moving to more cinematic. I also think it will follow a similar market like Imax films and be used in Aquariums and Museums. Here is a link to some work I have been doing here:
  14. You could use those bendy shock-corded tent poles they use in dome tents perhaps one on each side. You could slot them into holes you drill in the PVC pipe each end. It would need a rigid L frame for the PVC pipe part and perhaps something to pull the poles back closer to the bend of the L at the bottom to avoid having a full semi circle. You would probably need to source a pole and adjust the frame to suit the length of the pole. Attach the fabric at regular intervals with velcro tabs that wrap over the pole.
  15. Yeah, that's it, Chris The fabric is currently supported on two (horizontal sides = top and bottom). And yes, it need to be tensioned all the way around but flexible enough that it ends up as a sort of soft letter L. The link produces a very sharp L backdrop. This would be ok, and I think I could do this using PVC piping with a right angle joint (so, as you suggest, making each side rigid with piping . But I think this will produce a clear vertical/horizontal line at the bottom. Whereas I'm trying to produce a softer almost J shape where you can't see the backdrop moving from the vertical to the horizontal.
  16. Thanks, Elias. Hmmm, some food for thought there for sure.
  17. Last week
  18. Hi, Tim: I have no experience or knowledge of such a project, but here is what I can imagine: Your goal is two surfaces, one horizontal, one vertical, they need not be joined, just close together to appear as one. For the horizontal surface, I would consider a rigid sheet, say sheet metal painted black, which might consist of several overlapping smaller sheets to make it easier to handle. It would sink and stay, and will be thick enough not to ripple when somebody steps, sits, or lays on it. For the horizontal surface one needs something that allows water to flow through it, so it does not sway or ripple when the water moves back and forth. 1. Maybe take advantage of the slots of venetian blinds to allow water flow. Use discarded venetian blinds painted black, mounted on a 2 m square of thick pipe, the pipe might be slotted longitudinally along its inner length to hold the edges of the blinds. The blinds can be left slightly open so the water can flow back and forth. Maybe store selling window blinds and curtains might have used blinds. 2. Make a 2 m square of pipe holding a square of 1 or 2 cm wire mesh, the mesh then can support a thick plastic sheet, or one or more layers of light weight, open mesh fabric, died black, to keep it from rippling. Or sandwich the plastic or fabric between two layers of light weight wire mesh, everything sprayed black. Intriguing project, I sure hope to hear of its progress, and also enjoy the photos you take with it. Best of luck!
  19. You need a means to keep the fabric taught and using pockets for the tubes I don't think will do it. I'm not really clear on what you have so far but it sounds like the fabric is supported by tubes on 2 sides only. I would think it needs support and tension all the way around. You might be able to make a square PVC frame and use velcro tabs on the non pocket end to keep it taughtbut you would need more than just a couple of them to get it even I think. Are you trying to make something like this in the pool? https://www.thefront.com.au/backdrops/grey-canvas-backdrop-19ft-x-19ft-hire
  20. Hi, Melinda: Part of good underwater photos is equipment and strobes, but also the usual instruction to get close, then get closer. You can only sync to most strobes at 1/250, so to get good depth and clarity you need f6 or more, then set your ISO on auto, with upper and lower limits set within your camera's recommended settings. Only other way is to shoot auto with strobes set on TTL. I noticed you are in Los Angeles. If you are near Blue Water Photo, they have great classes and, if too far away for in person, lots of online info. Good luck and happy diving!
  21. So they are all at work again...please use caution. Definite scammer: traviskeese00 (traviskeese00@gmail.com) banned 07/31/21. Adam
  22. @imacro I've dived Cathedrals a number of times (also looking to capture the light rays that filter through the openings in the ceilings). First suggestion: Talk to anyone else on the boat and ask if you could either take your images before they enter or several minutes (like ~10) after everyone exits. The Cathedrals sites can silt up fairly easily. One diver swimming through is all it takes to silt up the view for a number of minutes... (although shooting without strobe lighting will help with this a bit). 2nd suggestion: Check both the tide and swell (you can talk to the dive leader about this if needed) - several of the sites silt up a bit when the swell comes up (as will the tide). 3rd suggestion: 1 diver in the background will look a lot better than 3-4 swimming in front of you. If you want to frame a diver in the background plan the shot ahead of time. Last - we had the most success early AM on days we were the only ones on the boat.
  23. These are also good fibre connectors http://www.divervision.com/howshot-fiber-adapter-l-for-seasea-ys-strobes-FAL-SS.html
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