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  2. I've got no direct experience of this trip either, and whilst Tim is correct with his corner comments on the big dome, are you really going to notice soft corners for these shots? If its going to just be plain sea in the corners I'd be thinking far more of taking the smaller dome for the fisheye and the WWL-1 for the other shots. I would have thought the WWL-1 would have significantly less drag than a big dome Mike
  3. I've no experience of dives like that. However if you are using FF and rectilinear you really need a big dome. If the lens is in the 16-35 range, I'd suggest a 230mm dome - nothing smaller or you risk really rubbish edges. Preferably add the Sea&Sea correction lens if you want to avoid the necessary aperture setting too of f11 or smaller to get sharp edges. Although you might be able to bump up the ISO to compensate? Using the Sigma (which I used regularly with a Nikon D800) will let you use a much smaller dome.
  4. Hi, I will be heading to Norway in a few weeks for an orca & whale snorkeling/freediving trip. Strobes/lights are not allowed during this trip It will be dark (4h of daylight per day) I shoot on FF, and expect of bringing a Fisheye (Sigma 15mm) and a rectilinear WA. I also have Nauticam WWL-1 but i fear it will be too cumbersome to freedive with (+significant drag) Big or small dome? With 6/7mm glove (mitts), i don't think I can count on dexterity to quickly modify settings on my camera I never had the opportunity to dive with these animals so I'm welcoming any tips you have (i guess, bumping ISO and fast shutter speeds)! I really don't know what to expect photography-wise.. Thank you!
  5. I regularly (pre lockdown) dived in Thailand. Housing prep in aircon room, at 22°C(72F) and then taking the camera out in 30-34°(86-93F) air temperatures and water temperatures in the range 29-31°C(84-88F). On My Nauticam system I give it 2-3 pumps beyond solid green and I never had any indication of false alarms. The description of the AOI system behaviour by the OP makes me suspect it is faulty.
  6. Hi, I'm considering switching to FF from my APS-C a6500 if the price of the changeover doesn't break the bank. Is the housing still available and perhaps a flash trigger if you had one ( I didn't see it listed). Thanks, Marshall
  7. Fair enough, the price for a sea frogs A1 housing with 8"dome is the best part $US1000 i see. If were spending that sort of money I think I'd spend the bit extra to get the WWL and get good optical quality all across the frame and then you don't need the additional sync speed and can stick with your existing housing. You'd need WWL, sea frogs port for 28-60, bayonet adapter and WWL-1B.
  8. Hi folks, if anyone has a Sea&Sea Internal Correction Lens, in 82mm, please let me know. I'm willing to buy (or rent if that's what it takes) this off anyone that has one. Thanks! Cheers, Kiliii
  9. That makes complete sense except for the fact that I already own an A1 for overwater photography
  10. Yesterday
  11. I use Stix floats and the floats work very well. Stix have a feature where the floats mount with one side thinner than the others; this helps when folding the strobe into a tight configuration. UCLS does make a longer arm clamp makes tighter arm configurations (like folding to put the camera system in a cooler bag) with larger diameter float arms easier. I pair a port flotation ring along with arm floats when shooting with my macro ports. -Tinman
  12. Yes you could get an A1 - but it seems to me a bit of a shame to cripple a camera/lens combo like that behind the small non optimised dome that seafrogs offers, yes it's a cheap way to get your camera underwater and it seals if looks after properly and has most of the functionality. Getting a faster sync speed in nice, but there are other ways to deal with that that don't involve so much expense. and would deliver superior results . For example in US prices the A1 is $6500. Then you have to get the housing. For the same $$$ more or less you could get a Nauticam housing, the 28-60 lens, the right port and focus gear and bayonet adapter and the WWL-1B. This would give you images that are sharp to the corners and as it's a wet lens it is designed to work at wider apertures so you could shoot at f5.6-8 range and still get good corners and sharper all over the image than the 16-35 in a small dome. There are probably other housing options you could consider. Or you could get the WWL-1B and bayonet adapter and use it on your current housing, you would need the 28-60 port which is shorter than the standard port to allow this.
  13. I don't believe so, the moisture sensor starts a very annoying beeping in addition to the red LED flashing.
  14. @ChrisRoss it was a number of fish moving in a little hideout, hence the repeated shots. The composition was the same, but their movement made for interesting shots. I'm getting more and more tempted to get the A1 housing next. Even if Seafrogs, it won't be worse than the seafrogs A7iii housing. At it can deal with flash at 1/400 with the mechanical shutter in full frame. I understand the point about two strobes not being additive. That makes sense.
  15. I'm not familiar with the AOI system, but have noticed that my Vivid vacuum system is sensitive to temperature changes. A friend who uses an Ikelite vacuum system has also noticed changes due to temperature. We've seen this when doing our vacuum stuff in air conditioned rooms and taking the pressurized housings out into higher temperatures. It's not a real issue with my Vivid system if I do some extra pulls on the vacuum pump after getting a green light. The friend with the Ikelite vacuum system takes his pump along, makes an adjustment after he gets on the boat if necessary and checks the pressure gauge again before the housing enters the water. Water temperatures (mid to high 80s) where we dive during the summer tend to be higher than those (low to high-70s) in air-conditioned rooms. Temperatures on a dive boat's camera table are frequently higher than those in air-conditioned rooms. I don't know where you are diving and what the temperature differences are between where you're setting your vacuum and the water temperature, but your issue might be a pretty simple one... maybe remove a little more air from your housing? -Tinman
  16. Selling my Acratech Ultimate ballhead with the optional right side controls. Acratech makes some of the absolute highest quality ballheads money can buy, and the Ultimate is what started it all. Great ballhead, made even greater by its completely open and greaseless design. Super easy to rinse out any sand and salt, with no detrimental effects! The open design also significantly limits any trapped air bubbles to make this perfect for underwater use. This one is in good user condition, functionally it works well but there are definitely some marks to the finish, particularly on the Arca clamp. There is also a nick on the “spine” and some marks on the bottom of the base from attaching to tripods. Action is smooth save for a slight jerkiness with the Arca Swiss -style clamp knob. This didn’t particularly bother me but it should be an easy thing for Acratech to fix. Happy to mail this to Acratech on your behalf for them to put it back in tip top condition, contact me for details. Full album of images: https://ibb.co/album/PcT3My Asking $250 including fees and shipping in CONUS.
  17. Hello, I am a Spanish diver and freediver, interested in both underwater photo and videography. I own 3 diferent caras with its housing. Hoping to enjoy the rofums sharing experiencies, and learn from all of you. Cheers. Isaias Cruz
  18. Do you have a moisture sensor on your system? Could it be that the temp change is causing condensation and setting off your moisture sensor? Just a shot in the dark.
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