Jump to content

Dave S

Member
  • Content Count

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Dave S

  • Rank
    Triggerfish

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/7308212@N05/collections/

Profile Information

  • Location
    Melbourne, Australia

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 400D (for dry stuff), Canon Powershot A630 (for wet stuff)
  • Camera Housing
    Canon A630 housing
  • Accessories
    Tripod
  1. Hi Jean, Is there any news to report on the Tokina 16-28mm testing? Also, more generally, is there currently a zoom gear sized between 18722 and 18723, and if not, would Aquatica consider producing one specifically to fit this lens? Similarly, assuming your initial 75mm ideal extension calculation is correct, would Aquatica consider producing a new extension to suit this lens? Thanks.
  2. Hi Jean, I've just returned from overseas, and had a chance to accurately measure my 16-28mm with callipers, alongside the Canon 24-70mm f/2.8. The two lenses have the zoom ring the same distance from the bayonet shoulder, but the 16-28mm zoom ring is smaller than the 24-70. (74.5mm diameter for the 16-28mm, compared with 83.5mm for the 24-70mm.) I had been hoping the 18723 ring for the 24-70mm would fit the 16-28mm, but from those measurements it looks like it will be too large. Is there any zoom gear sized between the 18722 and 18723? Also, could you please tell me the length of the standard macro port (18428) and the low profile macro port (18429), in terms of distance from the bayonet mount to the glass? I'm also trying to figure out whether I'd be able to use different lenses behind one without needing many different extensions. I.e. Using the 28mm or 50mm primes, or adding a teleconverter to the 100mm macro, I'd like to try to calculate whether I'd get vignetting due to the port being too long, or have the lens hit the glass due to it being too short. Thanks.
  3. Hi Jean, I received the housing today, and while the port and extension look good, the 18722 gear unfortunately doesn't fit on the zoom ring, even with the gear's o-rings removed! Is there a larger size gear you could recommend? About 2mm wider in diameter would be perfect. Thanks.
  4. Sorry, you're right, that measurement is an error. It should be about 95-100mm.
  5. Hi Jean, Here are my measurements of the lens. All length measurements are taken from the shoulder of the bayonet mount - the circular metal face that presses against the front of the camera when the bayonet is secured. Could you please let me know if these change your guesses about which extensions and gears would be appropriate? Length (bayonet shoulder to end of non-removable lens hood): 135mm Diameter at front (lens hood): 90mm Bayonet shoulder to rear end of zoom ring: 23mm Bayonet shoulder to front end of zoom ring: 40mm Diameter of zoom ring: 75mm And one extra measurement, the aperture diaphragm appears to be at about 121mm from the bayonet shoulder when zoomed to 16mm. Thanks!
  6. Thanks Jean, much appreciated. I'll be receiving the lens before purchasing the housing, so if it would help, I could provide some accurate measurements of the lens when I have it. (External measurements would be easy, diaphragm position a little more difficult.)
  7. I'm considering getting an Aquatica housing for my 5D mark II with a Tokina 16-28mm f/2.8 lens, but this lens isn't included in Aquatica's current lens charts. Has anyone tried housing this lens yet, and if so, are there any currently available extensions and zoom gears that are suitable for it? I haven't purchased the lens yet, so can't measure it, but it looks to be very similar in size and shape to the Nikon 24-24mm f/2.8, or a little similar to the Canon 16-35mm f/2.8. Aquatica extension 18458 and zoom gear 18722 with the 14-24mm, or extension 18457 and zoom gear 18708 with the 16-35mm. I'm tempted to just try getting the extension and zoom for the 14-24mm and hoping they fit, but obviously this is quite a gamble. Jean, if you could comment on this, it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
  8. Dave S

    Aquatica

    Where are you located, and where are you willing to post to?
  9. Sorry, you're out of luck. I asked Ikelite about this recently, and here's the response I got.
  10. Thanks jlyle, good to know they're sensitive, but I'd be using it for a remote strobe inside caves and wrecks, so would sometimes need enough cord length to position a strobe around a corner with the EV sensor in view of the on-camera strobes. If they're anything like the slave sensors built in to my Inon strobes, line of sight will still be required.
  11. Thanks, sounds like the Ikelite sync cable extension might be useful in that case.
  12. So I'm considering getting a DS51 with manual controller to use as a remote strobe, but I have a few questions for anyone that owns the EV controller. 1) What is the length of the cord that goes from the EV controller to the strobe? 2) Is this cord a normal sync cable, or is it different, or not removable from the controller unit? Thanks!
  13. I've recently bought a pair of 2nd hand Inon D2000 strobes. I'm not sure which version they are, but they're optically triggered only, they have no sync cord attachment. They came without the magnetic screw-in switches. Now, I'm using a Canon G10, and normally run it in manual mode. In this mode, the camera's internal flash is also manual, and so has no pre-flash. I'm also using the strobes in manual mode, and finding that the output of the strobes is extremely low, even when set to full power. When I change the camera to Av mode (using TTL flash, with pre-flash), the Inons suddenly behave properly. So, I'm assuming that the Inons are expecting a pre-flash from the camera, and putting out a weak initial flash, followed by a full-strength 2nd flash, in order to trigger any other optically-slaved strobes that expect a pre-flash. Now, what I'm wondering is, will replacing the magnetic screws (if I can find them or build a replacement) set the strobes to fire on a single flash, rather than a double flash? The diagram on the back of the strobes (image attached) isn't very clear. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...