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Posts posted by Deep6
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Really good work Jim! Thanks for the report. I agree that it would be good to separate the mirror less, single lens, digitals into another category in WP, but this falls on deaf ears with the administration.
As far a photo competition, this camera IQ is on par or better than many DSLRs.
Regards,
Bob
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I use the 4.3" Bare Dome with a Kenko Pro 1.4x TC. Another TC may not work with the Tokina.
Bob
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It could be the effect of depth of field, but the focus doesn't look that stunning. I'm not about to regret deciding not to go down the 4/3 route, despite the frustrations of excess baggage!
Tim
The 4/3 format does have a two stop increase in DoF e.g. f4 ~= f8 in 35FF. You eyes are better than mine; what's the focus problem?
Regards,
Bob
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Do you need 1:1? If not, consider the Sigma 17-70 "macro" with 1:2 @ 70 mm. Also, I like it for top side work. The Sigma glass is "warmer" and not quite a contrasty as Nikkor lens.
Bob
P.S. Doesn't Niikon make a 40 mm marco for DX?
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I attended a workshop with Erine Brooks a long time ago. He suggested using Tmax 100 or 200 and pushing it one stop. This increases contrast and the illusion of sharpness. I don't care much for Tmax 3200. Is TriX film still avaiable?
Bob
P.S. I have a Rolli, but haven't the guts to house it.
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Over 35 yrs designing u/w electronic housings & using several u/w still & video systems, I've always left o-rings in place with housing closed. No issues. O-rings have been buna-n (the black ones). Keep clean & a little silicone grease when required. If I bought something with colored o-rings (like S&S strobes) I changed their blue o-rings to buna. Your main concern is eleiminating dust or debris, not compression of o-ring. The more you play with the seals the more likely a potential problem.
I also have and had Nexus housings. At home, I do store the main housing separate in Ziploc bags, but this not likely necessary. When diving, I assemble and close everything the night before. I don’t take out the control o-rings, but do clean and grease the shafts. Pretty much an easy to maintain housing.
Bob
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Although I don't know who makes/sells it, I'm pretty sure there's a port adapter for 4/3rds to m4/3rds. Can anyone help me with this? Assuming it exists, would it be compatible with the Nauticam housing, so I could use my 4/3rds glass? Thx, DavidThere are several [e.g. google 4/3 to m4/3 adapter]. Check with Nauticam before you buy.
Bob
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I was able to use that same trick with several of my Olympus cameras like the E-3 but the E-M5 does not have a built in flash so that trick won't work.Phil Rudin
Doh (blush)!
Phil,
Thanks for the feedback.
Bob
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Some of the things I like about this Nauticam housing is that they have moved the main O-ring to the rear door which will make it much eaiser to service over being on the main body. The housing, like all of the Nauticam DSLR housings comes with a pickup viewfinder for the EVF and the Option to add the 45 or 180 degree accessory finders. Nauticam supports all of the excellent lenses for the M4/3 system like the 8 ifsheye, 7-14 zoom and 45 macro. I also like that the video on/off is out of the way of the rear push controls where it won't be as easy to turn on by accident. Don't see a popup switch for the camera flash, a mistake I have made more than once using fiber optic systems.Phil Rudin
Thanks for your expert observations. The Nexus D80, inconveniently, does not have a pop up flash switch either. The flash for the D80 can be activated by setting the mode to A, aiming at a dark object, and then partially depressing the shutter button.
Is it too early to speculate about the EVF with a pick up finder? I have not used a EVF in a housing. Is VF eye relief a factor? What is the eye relief for the Oly EMD5 EVF?
Bob
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First pictures of Nauticam NA-EM5 Housing for Olympus OM-D E-M5, via Fun-Inhttps://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.4...2368&type=1
Nice
How come we see this on the FUN-IN before the Nauticam sites? Just guessing, I doubt the EVF will be much use w/o an added extension. A real shame Oly didn't put the EVF on the side like a range finder camera (NEX, FUJI, etc.) and housing manufacturers don't have a built in extension with sight magnification for the camera's VF. Otherwise looks great.
Bob
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Is that the same as losing some bioprene?Tim
Oh yeah, I have some of that bioprene forward on the other side.
I ditched the ole Oceanic last year when it became unreliable. I added weight pockets on the back tank strap for trim balance. My new back BC has them built in. I use 2:1 or 3:2 ratio lower weight to upper back trim. Over inflating on the surface can pitch you forward. Just relax and be still. I don't have a 45 deg. finder either. When properly trimed, up or down head movements can make gentle changes in position.
Bob
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I have changed from a back inflation to a jacket BCD after doing the Galapagos some years ago.With a back inflation BCD you get your face splashed with each wave in 3 feet of chop since you are unable to get you head high out of the water. The back inflation tends to pitch you forward where the jacket will not.
You just need to add some ballast to your butt!
Bob
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Hello all,Been away from stills photography for over 6 years now doing video, but recently I got a great condition Nexus housing, from member Sharkman, for my beloved oldie, Nikon D-100. I've been trying to find resources online, information on available lens gears, ports, etc, but haven't found much really. Nexus housings are really great but information so that users can make informed purchases is horrible. Can anybody point me in the direction where I can find some up to date and reliable info and not some badly translated from Japanese bits and pieces?
Thanks,
Rudi Herbert
www.IdeasinBlue.com
I buy my Nexus stuff from Woody at Nexus America. He is a also a Nikon shooter and very knowledgeable.
Bob
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I've heard that optic cords are just super delicate and if they're bend wrong or crimped they will just stop working? I'm also a tiny bit concerned with the recycle time of the on camera flash. Even if i fire it at the lowest power, I get, at most 3 quick shots with the flash, then it doesn't work for quite some time. Is this something I should even be concerned with?I have use fiber opticial connections for 6 years. I stopped packing the unused S&S 5 pin as a backup. I use the Inon 240's. No problems.
Bob
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It's a stoater:Tim
¡Ay cramba! Now we need to understand Scottish expressions?
"England and America are two countries separated by a common language." - GBS
Bob
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Olympus housing.Dr. Alex,
I am so glad you are "field" testing this Oly. Will you use the 12-50? What for macro? IMHO, this is the sub form for this type of camera. Don and I wanted Adam to create a section for mirrorless. Adam suggested posting to this DSLR form.
Regards,
Bob
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Ok, I have at the moment a very old tired looking fuji f30 that needs to retire. I am looking at the EVIL/ 4/3 (or what ever you want to call them) at the moment. The problem is I dont know anything about cameras and was hoping someone with some knoledge about these things could help.I am looking at either the Olympus Pens or the Sony NEX5N. Comparisons sites seem to favour the the NEX5N (with the exception of lenses) but I a am tad worried that I will buy something too complicated for me to use as I am used to the point and shoot.
ANY help or advice would be great regarding either of my mentioned cameras or any other options.
Thanks
You can always use it in the Auto mode. Just an expensive P&S until you utilize the options. You can get a macro lens and an Inon strobe with optical iTTL. Put the camera in the A for apterure mode and at f/8 to f/11 and fire away. I am looking for a new mirrorless rig; haven't bough anything yet. To me, the Oly E-M seems the best at the moment.
Enjoy the journey,
Bob
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Of course, all the 'pros' around here, will tell us to grow up and use full M mode and Manual strobe. Maybe Holloways is ready to take that step...??Thanks Don. I'm OK with not being a pro. I like iTTL for "most" of my macro work, but have to "man up" and use manual setting for w/a. Faster than 1/60 shutter speed syncs are really desired. OBTW, I can set my Nikon for M and get iTTL for the strobes.
Bob
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Hi Holloways.What camera system do you have now? I forget.
The sony nex lenses coming this year, are not looking very good for underwater photo use.
And for the price of the nex7, you could buy a fantastic nikon d7000, and inexpensive ikelite housing, and have a great, though heavier system.
The only system that is lower weight, with nearly as good image quality, is micro 4/3. The sony nex system has the same size sensor as every DSLR, so it needs lenses that are just as big around, and fat and heavy.
I would be very surprised if the gx1 housings will be out in time for june. The panasonic implementation of Aperture priority exposure mode, does not let you adjust the slowest shutter speed it will use, when the flash is on. It uses 1/60 second, which is slow enough to blur fish that dart out of the way. So, you will be forced immediately to use full M - manual exposure mode. Maybe you already are..?? The panasonic auto ISO is not allowed to be used in M mode either.
All of these problems are handled nicely, with the olympus A mode and M mode w auto iso.
You could get an olympus epl2 or epl3 system, right now, very cheaply, and keep most of the ports and lenses, if you even want to upgrade later on.
Getting a PEN now with an Olympus u/w housing could be a stop gap solution if you what the EM-5 later (uses the same M4/3) lenses. As Don about shooting with a PEN. I didn't know you can't use TTL with S or M in the GX1.
Bob
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With the 200mm Zen dome and 60mm extension you can use the 17-70mm (os version) throughout its focal range without need of a diopter.HTH, Tim
I get good results with a Nexus 170 mm dome with 60 mm extension and no diopter - not OS, but is HSM. This is not a specialize lens; 1:2 macro at best.
Bob
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I'm off to spend a few days in Malta shooting the new Olympus and a few older cameras. The aim of my trip is to focus on the OMD e-M5 and see if it is a serious alternative to a Nikon or Canon SLR for UW shooting at that price point, or simply the obvious upgrade path if you are into micro 4/3.I think it will be an interesting exercise as I am not an current micro 4/3rds user. So it will really be a judgement on the system from someone more used to a classic DSLR. Which is actually what I think people are really interested in. Especially when you consider the advantages in travel weight and size. But does it cut it as an underwater tool?
That's great! I am really glad you will review this camera u/w. There is a new Pany 12-35 f/2.8 coming; specs at Thom Hogan's Sans Mirror:
Panasonic 12-35 mm at Thom's Sans Mirror Site
Some wider (7-12 mm) and fast lens (f/[1.8- 2.0]) are desired.
Bob
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Hi, I'm Ruth, a newbie to this forum. Watched this for a while, but never posted before. Started with housed film cameras in the 90s, then to DSLRs and now I'm seriously considering the Sony NEX-7. I love the high res, small size, ability to carry on. I'm worried about what I will give up going from DSLR to this. I'm considering getting the nauticam housing with the ports for the 18-55 lens and the 30mm macro. The wide angle looks interesting, but I am a little worried about the image quality of the 16mm pancake with the fisheye converter and I can't seem to find the lens for sale ANYWHERE (except on ebay)! Does anyone know any rumors about why it has been backordered for so long? Regardless I am not totally convinced of its optical quality. Also what do people think about the future longevity of the NEX line? I don't want to invest in one that stops being supported the minute I dump a pile of money in it. Many thanks for any replies!I am no expert nor do I have the Nex-7. From the reviews that I have read, only the Zeiss 24 mm for E-mount is equal to the resolving power of the Sony 24 mp sensor. Of course, proper down sizing the images can reduce this problem. I like almost everything about the Nex-7 except the ambitious 24 mp sensor for APS-C format, lens size, and the most critical is the lack of lenses. Just my $0.02.
Bob
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Managed to flood and cripple my Panny TS-2. Hint, don't rinse under a tap. The camera still works but drains the battery in a few days, but it works great for day trips. Have just bought a Panny TS-4 with an Ikelite housing. Hasn't seen water yet, but I assume its good for a dip or 2.The cameras work great for kayaking and snorkling. Diving is what I bought the housing for.
I am researching a waterproof P&S for climbing, crayoning, rafting and other foolish pursuits. The Pany TS4 seems to be the best available today, but check out the new Oly TG-1.
Bob
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With a barrel length considerably shorter than the 60mm and with a wider angle of view that the 60mm, it might need a new port on some housings, which would add to the expense. Especially to aid lighting when subjects are close to the port.Look forward to trying it. Certainly more motivated to try this than the 85mm.
Alex
p.s. It's release also indicates Nikon's plans to stick with DX in pro bodies. Making the D400 seem ever more likely. Late August anyone (4 years exactly after D300 and D3 announcement)?
"Certainly more motivated to try this than the 85mm". OK, the 85 mm is a half stop slower. The 60 mm has a nice FoV in DX. I am curious why you are not motivated to try the longer lens with a 28.6 cm close focus vs. 16.3 for the 40 mm. VR would not be bad for topside. Also, the 85 mm FoV is more like the 105 mm on FX.
Bob
Need some advice: What lens setup for m4/3 (OM-D)
in Photography Gear and Technique
Posted
Pardon the digression, but I handled the Olympus E-M5 w. 12- 50 lens Thursday. I couldn’t put it down, so it came home with me. The lens doesn’t come with a hood. Minor excavation in the camera cave uncovered a Nikon HN-2 hood and a Nikon 52 mm lens cap. Gee a real metal hood! Well OK, its aluminum and from pervious misadventures I know it is very rugged. The hood does not vignette at 12 mm (24 FX equ.). The Oly cap won’t grip in this hood, but the Nikon of course does.
The adventure begins!
Regards,
Bob
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