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About horseflesh

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon s70
  • Camera Housing
    Canon WP-DC40
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
  • Accessories
  1. Finally got it sussed out--you are right of course, TTL does not work in Manual. Thanks to a CHDK script though, now it does!
  2. I just got this duo and need to get the settings dialed in, so I could use some help from someone who has been down this road. Test exposures with the camera in Manual, camera strobe forced On, and the strobe in Manual seem to work fine. This is how I used my old rig. (DX-2G + YS-01) The TTL setting on the YS-D1 does not seem to work, but according to the manufacturer's compatibility list, it should work with the S100. So, I have something set wrong. But what? *Any* tips on settings for these gadgets would be greatly appreciated. This fancy new strobe does TTL, I want to try it out!
  3. Following up with my results... I realized that my strobe aim on my first outing was awful and probably caused the vast majority of the backscatter I saw. I still completely blocked the internal strobe with duct tape outside the housing for my next try, because it can't hurt and may help. On the second outing I didn't get any great pictures, but I did make progress and was able to take some photos with good lighting and no backscatter. The strobe technique will just take practice. Also, and this may be old news, I realized that the DX-2g + YS-01 combo will work great with the camera is set in manual mode and the strobe is set on TTL. I thought I would have to use aperture priority, but the DX-2G's TTL system was perfectly happy with me setting the aperture and shutter manually. Most of the time I left the camera at f/8.1 and shutter 1/125. With a little bit of negative flash exposure comp, overall exposure was generally good.
  4. The 2g has a diffuser that rotates down into place, inside the housing. But the whole top of the camera lights up anyway. The backscatter from the internal strobe is no surprise really when you look at it. I wonder why they did not provide a means to black out the internal strobe? Karl, do you shoot TTL or manual? A couple of times I tried blocking the internal flash with my fingers, but I think it confused the TTL system. The external strobe went to full power on those occasions. I'll have to do some experimenting on dry land. On another forum someone suggested using some exposed slide film as a filter for the internal flash, as it will pass only IR.
  5. I took my DX-2G + YS-01 strobe out for its first dive today. Conditions were poor, vis was about 15 ft. Every shot had significant backscatter, except for the closest macro shots. It seems like I'll really need to black out the internal strobe to prevent this. But is the internal strobe important for the camera's TTL calculations? I am not sure how that works. The YS-01 doesn't preflash. (Or does it?) It is also possible that I have my expectations set wrong. Even with an external strobe set far away from the camera, maybe it's just futile to try taking wide-angle shots in poor visibility. I have been diving with a camera for a long time, but never with an external strobe until today. Operating the camera is not a problem, but I am not sure how to aim the strobe for best effect. This it not something the manual covers at all. Thanks for any advice!
  6. Thanks Tom, the flash exp. comp did it. The camera has great usability--the controls are excellent. Too bad Ricoh doesn't make more cameras.
  7. I just got a DX-2G and YS-01 package and while I will probably shoot manual, I want to understand the TTL feature. The manuals don't really tell you how to use it other than telling you to turn the strobe dial to TTL and make sure the camera flash is on. What does the camera need to be set to? In aperture priority mode I can get decent test shots but the exposure is never quite right, and I can't figure out how to outsmart the TTL system and dial in exposure compensation. Any change I make (exp comp, aperture) seems to be negated by the TTL system trying to help me. The flash power dial is apparently ignored in TTL mode too.
  8. *sob* That's almost exactly what I want... but the lack of raw is a deal killer. #@!$
  9. It's a long way from that quality, but it also has a price to match.
  10. This guy will be selling something, hopefully this month: http://www.eyeofmine.com/gopro/hd/ Here's a direct link to the demo video: I have no stake in the matter other than being an interested HD Hero owner. I just found this info today on a GoPro fan forum and thought it was worth sharing. I have no idea what the fix is or how it might change the field of view.
  11. I hope you can figure out a way to get the Hero video sharper. Underwater, it is pretty blurry! I asked their tech support about it, and they said it was a known issue, but wasn't a big deal on the previous standard def version. They said that a different lens or housing was something they were looking at, but I am not holding my breath. (Why advertise a scuba rated housing if it's gonna be blurry when used submerged? Sigh.) Sample taken by someone over on ScubaBoard: http://www.vimeo.com/7635923
  12. I intend to use a single strobe with a compact digicam. (I've narrowed down my strobe choice to the YS-110a or the Inon Z240, I think.) But I have absolutely no idea where to start on choosing a tray/arm and haven't spotted a thread for "single strobe with room to grow" setups. This is what I am hoping to accomplish: - Macro most of the time - Extend an arm for WA (even if it isn't going to be great with 1 strobe and a compromise arm) - Allow for addition of another strobe someday - Allow me to change make of camera without concern so long as it's not to a giant DSLR - Keep things as compact as possible while meeting the above. This expandable tray looks like the right kind of thing: http://www.ulcs.com/gsdigital.html But I am still pretty lost on what I need for the arm. What kind of arm segments would be good for my needs? Thanks for any advice.
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