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tursiops

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Everything posted by tursiops

  1. If your rechargeable Duracells are also NiMH chemistry, probably no need to do further testing. Your original posting did not say they were recharageables.
  2. "when firing the strobe consecutively 10-15 times" How long did this take....seconds, minutes? Over-heating is a problem from quickly firing at full power many times.
  3. One of the Canons, for sure, if only because you can't shoot manual with the TG-6. You will not be dissapointed with the G7X. You might be with the G9X. It is very easy for me to spend YOUR money....
  4. I find that using the long clamps between the two arms on each side helps mitigate the positioning problems for macro.
  5. From a recent trip. (Sorry for the confusing background.) The left float arm has a CMC-1 on a bayonet dock. The right float arm has an empty dock for the WWL-1, currently mounted on the port. That right arm needs to be long enough so the WWL-1 in its float collar will fit. Mine are 10 inches, I'm not sure 8 inches would be enough....it would be tight. Also, right float arm needs to be rotated so that the dock is facing outwards, so the WWL-1 will bayonet on without hitting the outside arm (with the STIX floats). My float arms are the old 60mm, and the dock mounts are from an old WetPixel thread in which TheTrickster developed the 3-D printed dock base. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=57299 Itis for sale at https://www.shapeways.com/model/upload-and-buy/5506941. However, Nauticam now makes its own bayonet docks for its newer 70mm and 90mm float arms. https://reefphoto.com/pages/search-results?q=boyonet-holder+float-arm&type=product. I've got a couple of the 90mm 8-inch float arms, and would love to try the Nauticam bayonet dock on it instead of the longer, thinner float arms I'm using, but it is an expense I don't really NEED to make!
  6. I also have the WWL-1, bayonet mount, but with a float collar attached. The collar makes it a bit bulky but much easier to handle in the water. I store it on a bayonet dock that is on a float arm. I do not rinse the WWL-1 while on the camera, but separately, and dry the front and back lens surfaces. The other float arm also has a dock with a CMC-1. It is a truly versatile combo.
  7. Nauticam part #25103. Holds standard 67mm macro lenses. Not much used...switched to bayonet system. Fits #36161 12-50mm macro zoom port, #37121 Flat Port 74, and maybe others. $260 new. Price $140 including shipping to US. PayPal accepted, I will absorb the fees.
  8. The TG5 is a good choice, and is on sale right now due to the release of the TG6 (with minor improvements). However, the TG5 can be frustrating to use with its very restricted apertures and no manual controls.If all you want is close-ups and macros, fine, but forget the internal flash. It is too weak to reach out any useful distance (except for macro) and too close to the lens to avoid backscatter. the G7XII and RX100 are much more capable, and used ones a decent prices. You will need a good strobe for those mantas, two would be better. The S-2000 is weaker than the Sea&Seas and the larger Inons. Don't skimp on the housing....if you can't get at all the camera controls with it, you are wasting the camera.
  9. NAUTICAM MACRO PORT AND ZOOM GEAR SET FOR OLYMPUS M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 12-50MM F3.5-6.3 EZ Nauticam SKU #36162 New $800 Used $400, shipped in U.S., plus shipping elsewhere. Used a fair amount, no glass scratches. Zoom gear already mounted to lens; will be removed if you only want the port and gear. Lens also available, but I'm not wanting to sell it separately. New $500. Used $400 Excellent condition.
  10. Yes, Tef-gel is what I meant when I wrote t-fal earlier. Sorry.
  11. Unfortunately, my early model OM10 housing does not permit the installation of the top brackets. Yes, T-Fal on all screws.
  12. My Flexitray came apart (on a dive trip, as the camera was being handed up at the boat); screws came out of the base of the right handle. Now I use a heavier, stronger iDas tray.
  13. Were they in checked or carryon?
  14. You are right about temperature being a small effect, but if the back of the housing, for example, bends in from the pressure, then there is less volume inside and the air pressure inside thus increases. I'm trying to find a reason why the vacuum light would turn yellow, not that I've ever seen that. I don't believe it is a changing temperature of the air inside....that would be a very slow process.
  15. I expect when the housing hits cold water it shrinks slightly, so the pressure inside increases slightly...same amount of gas in a smaller volume.
  16. Fishbase.org is comfortable with seeing the Giant Damselfish off Peru....the ID looks pretty good for a juvenile.
  17. So far, no one has named even one country that has such permits.
  18. I'll mention nightsea.com again. Try looking at: http://www.nightsea.com/articles/underwater-fluorescence-faq/ Especially this: Do the NIGHTSEA lights emit ultraviolet light?NIGHTSEA’s lights are designed to emit a carefully controlled range of blue, not ultraviolet, wavelengths. We started out with ultraviolet a long time ago, but with a combination of science and experiment learned that blue provides a far superior experience. There are some things that fluoresce under UV but not blue, but overall more things fluoresce, and fluoresce more brightly, when illuminated with the right blue light and viewed through the yellow barrier filter. For more information see our articles explaining Why NIGHTSEA uses blue light for underwater fluorescence and The role of the barrier filter in fluorescence viewing and photography. Also, see http://www.nightsea.com/articles/barrier-filter/and this: For best results the spectral properties of the barrier filter should be closely matched to the spectral properties of the excitation light source. If the barrier filter transmits some of the light coming from the source, that light will show up in the photograph. If the barrier filter is too deeply colored it will block all of the excitation, but it will also block some of the fluorescence. If the matching is done right you will be able to see as much fluorescence as possible, with strong contrast and little to no interference from the excitation source. I suppose one easy way to do this would be look at your excitation light through your barrier filter; it you see nothing, you've matched it! http://www.nightsea.com/resources/is a major source of information. the set of articles under "Knowledge" are particularly interesting.
  19. You've got to look beyond their products and go to the information and science pages. The guy who runs nightsea is the scientist that started this field. If necessary, send a query to him, Charley Mazel.
  20. Tell us a bit more: camera, shutter speed, ISO, flash setting, TTL, depth? INON D2000, I assume. Are the pictures cropped, or are they full-frame? Was the flash on an arm high and to the right? In general, many of the pix seems to be exposed for ambient light (backgrounds are bright), and the flash is not doing much, which suggests you need to get off the automatic camera settings and use a higher shutter speed and/or lower ISO, and get closer so the flash can have some effect.
  21. I don't know how to answer. First UW camera was a Nikonos I.
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