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Everything posted by wydeangle

  1. Adam, I know my dive buddy used a Canon 7D (MK 1) at the time, and shoots exclusively RAW files. I'll see if she had the same problems with her E-M5 - can't recall. Tom PS: There was quite a range of cameras used by folks experiencing the problem; there didn't seem to be any common factor other than LR... EDIT: I checked and she recalls both Canon 7D and Olympus E-M5 files being corrupted on the same PC using the same LR software. It was an equal-opportunity bug!
  2. Mark, Sorry to hear this happening to you. My favorite LightRoomist and dive buddy had this happen to her sometime during the past year. As always I get called in to try to work it out. Interesting thing is, it went away seemingly as mysteriously as it appeared, somewhat about the same time as she switched to the "cloud" version of the software. In the meantime I updated everything I could, including "winders 7", her motherboard, and all hardware drivers including video drivers, USB drivers etc etc. The symptoms were very similar to yours - random RAW files would suddenly develop a partial rainbow kind of banner and LightRoom would be allergic to them. Most often, re-copying the same file from a backup or the original card would rectify the problem until the next one went. Most subsequent times it would attack a different file; rarely the same one. Adding RAM up to 16GB didn't stop the problem. Updating everything was a "maybe, maybe not" fix. Of course, all the Abobe "pros" said it was IMpossible for LightRoom to corrupt an original RAW file as LightRoom never wrote to the file, to which I (as a former programmer in a long-ago lifetime) call BS! The act of opening a file to read it and then closing it improperly or forgetting to close it can easily cause corruption. We tried all the things you mentioned above concerning card readers, external drives, cables and USB2 vs USB3, hubs vs motherboard direct port ad nauseum and none of those seemed to cure anything. Since going to the "cloud" version, no more corruption is noted. Interesting coincidence, don't you think? Sorry I can't actually be helpful! Tom PS: If you Google this problem you'll find incidents like this going back several years - on all kinds of hardware and operating systems - the common denominator is (you guessed it) LightRoom...
  3. Drew, Thank you! I will now proceed as if I know what I'm doing Pete, I'm not on Facebook but know someone who is ;-) She was not able to find the group by searching on AX100 and related terms. Would you be so kind as to give me a specific group name? Tom
  4. Drew, After a certain amount of frustration I reset the camera to its defaults, then put the time etc back in but didn't change any settings. When I pressed the PAE button I got a different error box: "Turn off Intelligent Auto." Of course the book was written for firmware version 1 and the camera is now version 2 so the book's menu tree doesn't have "Intelligent Auto" in it. I tried to follow every branch of the menu tree in the camera itself, and no "Intelligent Auto" showed up. This thing now appears buggy enough to use it for a window opening tool. What say you? Tom PS: If I make any setup menu selections such as AGC Limit, the error message changes back to the one in the first message, and gets stuck there... Still no PAE!
  5. Drew, Thanks. Alas, it doesn't seem to make any difference. When the camera is switched to Manual the Iris, Gain and Shutter speed are highlighted and I can change them readily manually. If I press the Manual button again, all three of the highlights go away, supposedly indicating they are all in Auto mode. In either case if I press the PAE button, I still get the exact same error box I quoted in the first message! It doesn't seem to matter whether the camera is in Auto or Manual - same error and no PAE. I have two of these cameras, and the result is exactly the same with either camera, so it's probably not a defective camera - unless they are both defective in the same way - not impossible but less likely. Maybe it's one of the newer Sony bugs? Tom PS: Further playing; the indicators for the Iris, Gain and Shutter have three states: "A", "E" and blank leading the number. No matter which appears for each one right before I press PAE, the result is the same -> the error box.
  6. I have a Sony AX100 & Gates housing. In trying to learn the camera I have been blessed with the following error message I find totally baffling. If I press the PROGRAM AE button to try to get it into that mode, I get "Set the adjustment for brightness to auto." I am normally fairly opaque, but this time maybe it has gone over the top! I'm unable to get past this message to get to the PROGRAM AE mode. I can't find a button or a menu selection that has anything to do with brightness. Would some kind soul point out the error of my ways so I can get this behind me and successfully select PROGRAM AE? Frustratedly, Tom PS: The firmware version is 2.0
  7. Nick, Wonderful! Had to be a monumental piece of work to do. You can now teach a college course in fish ID, behavior and everything from that film. Thanks for sharing it, Tom
  8. Dustin, I am most astonished by the nano-shrimp that appear on the backs of some of the nudis, e.g. at 30 seconds in and many other places. In true 4K those might be identifiable! Great stuff, Tom
  9. What Drew said! We went on this one with him a few years back - we'd go again in a heartbeat! The north side of Bali is a world class diving area.
  10. Stephane, Here's the reply I sent offline: "St├ęphane, Here are two pictures of the lens confirming the part number. Sorry for the dust - I think it is the older camera I use for stills. I would like $900US for the lens; somewhat less that 1/2 of what I paid for it. I would rather not sell the 1520 case at this time as someone may want it with the housing & other parts. I do have a slightly smaller case, about 1" smaller in each dimension, (maybe a 1510???) that I would sell for $50US. I could pack the lens into that case for safe shipping. I include pictures of the two cases together to give an idea of size. The bad news is I have no idea how to send the items to France, about shipping, duties, customs or taxes. Perhaps you could educate me? Tom" I attach photos of the case and lens. Tom
  11. BIBFTD (bringing it back from the dead) Also note there's a Pentamirror from XIT404 that is included.
  12. Since the cameras have been sold, here's a revised ad for the housing: Light & Motion Bluefin Pro with the OLED monitor back for Canon HF-G10, XA10 or HFS30 videocameras. Original cost was $3799. It comes with the flat port (standard) and the Fathom 90 degree wide angle port, a $1799US option. There's also a Stix float. Also includes two kinds of attachment bases for lighting (total four) , two for the one-inch ball, the other two for Locline arms. An XIT404 tripod base is also included (no legs). The setup has been well used; the L&M coating has begun to depart. The housing had an overhaul last October at L&M; both handles were rebuilt at L&M in July 2014, six dives ago. I'd describe it as discolored appearing but 100% usable. The Pelican case is included. Since it was about $6000 total originally, I'd like $2250US or near offer. If you have interest, want to make an offer or need more information, PM here or e-mail cobra521 at gmail dot com Thanks, Tom
  13. FOR SALE: Complete Bluefin Pro L&M housing with Canon XA10 HD videocamera, Fathom 90* super wide lens, XIT404 Float, Pentamirror and tripod mount. Also included case and spares. It has been well used; alas the L&M coating hasn't held up as well as hoped, but all items are 100% functional. Housing had an overhaul last October at L&M, Handles were rebuilt at L&M in July 2014, six dives ago. I'd describe it as scruffy appearing but completely usable. The housing comes with both lenses: flat port and 90*. Glass is perfect although there are signs of use on the metal parts. The XA10 camera comes with all manuals and accessories including the XLS microphone mount, in its original box. Here is a link to some pictures of the parts in no particular order (keep pressing the left arrow to see the others after clicking on the link): https://flic.kr/p/oBQVsb It looks like there's about $7000US of items there originally; I'd like $3400 or best near offer. PM here or cobra521 at gmail dot com Tom
  14. diver dave 1, I do like the quality of the Subsee macro lenses. Downside: the adapter I bought for my Light & Motion housing has proved to be fragile. It cracked in half the first time I used it; thankfully my little lanyard saved it from the depths. I suspect the printing process that apparently was used to make the holder resulted in a fairly weak piece of plastic. If there's a way to get or make a stronger holder, I'd suggest doing so. Tom
  15. A delightful bit of history, research and perseverance! If I had one wish, I'd get rid of the background music - it made it very difficult to understand what the narrator was saying at times... Tom
  16. Drew, Maybe it was.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9I_DcSbZjI Ya think? Tom
  17. Draq, Very interesting.... Quite a while back a very similar "sunburn" happened to my viewfinder, only this was in the Galapagos, and it was a Sony PD-150 in an Amphibico housing. Expensive fix. I thought at the time it was during a short ride when the housing was on the floor of the Zodiac, going to a dive site. The housing had a sort of magnifier on the viewfinder which I still think made the burn happen much quicker. After the repair I searched out and put a small rubber cup over the eyepiece whenever the thing was topside. Never repeated the problem. Amphibico, alas, had "never heard of the problem" and didn't have any cover available for the viewfinder. I think it is a good precaution to take to cover the eyepiece on any rig. Thanks for the reminder! Tom
  18. Got'em! I'd add that to the subject line but can't figure out how...
  19. It's time to admit it: I don't have a clue what happened to my Sola 4000 filters. Sigh... So if anyone out there has a pair that I could buy reasonably, I'd like to hear from you! Tom cobra521 at gmail dot com
  20. Peter, Thank you for the added potential source of a prescription dive mask - the site appears to be: http://prescriptiondivemasks.com/ If not please advise! If I read your post correctly you did one of the options I was considering - put the "middle" part of the progressive lens as the "distance" part. That way the gap between distance and bifocal essentially goes away. I'm debating whether it's worth giving up the distance spotting of hammerheads etc (beyond normal video/photo range anyway) in favor of getting rid of the out-of-focus part of the near distance. Oh, well, all life is some sort of compromise... I even thought about having two masks with me for that reason: clip off the distance mask and switch if I decided it was better at a given moment. Just what I need; something else to hang off my BC! Still in the drum-roll on this one... Tom
  21. Thank you Walmyr; I sent them an inquiry. Their masks presently seem to be limited to 100' with a deeper capability coming in "early 2014." So we'll see if I'm going to be a pioneer... (you know, the guy with all the arrows in his back - grin) Tom
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