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  1. Are these items still available? Are you selling any other Nauticam parts such as ports or viewfinder?
  2. My wife just purchased the Nauticam housing for the Sony A7r2 and she is wondering if there is a specific synch cord she will need to hook up her Ikelite DS-161's. The housing has the typical Nikons bulkhead. FYI she is making this big step up from her film Nikon F-100 in a Seacam housing, and I I wonder if she can use her old synch cords. We imagine she will have to shoot the strobes manual as we don't believe there is such a thing as a iTTL adaptor for a Sony camera.
  3. Selling Aquatica housing that was originally built for the Nikon D200, which was upgraded to the D300 with a conversion back sold by Aquatica. It is presently configured for the D300, but I have all the pieces necessary to backward convert it to the D200. The change over is simple. The 2 Nikonos bulkheads are specially wired by Aquatica so that each is a 5 pin, so you have a back up bulkhead if you are shooting ttl with an ikelite ttl convertor. They can also be used as manual bulkheads if you don't want to use ttl. If you are interested please make an offer by email at eyebrad@gmail.com
  4. I have some really basic questions and would appreciate some general suggestions. If this has been discussed elsewhere please let me know. Thanks I just received a D 300 and plan to shoot manual in an aquatica housing with a 60 macro and tokina 10-17. I have 2 Ikelite ds125 strobes that I will use manually. There are all kinds of camera settings so if someone can give me some advice on things like: Does everyone shoot RAW and use the adobe RGB color space? I don't really have time to master photoshop...but maybe Lightroom or Aperture. I have Ikelite DS125 strobes... what flash synch speed should I try? (manual strobe) I was thinking of using center weighted metering for both of these lenses, but spot could be used for a nudibranch or an eye? Would matrix ever be considered for close focus WA? I planned of AF-S focussing ... is single point or dynamic area generally better? How big an area? Please share any other info I might find useful in setting things up.
  5. Thanks for the info... If anyone has some simple design ideas let me know.
  6. I have been looking at housings for a Sony HC3 or HC7 (they will be coming I'm sure). My goal is to be compact with a Zoom port that will go macro to as much wide angle as possible. Over the years on many dive boats I have alway admired the cosmetic appearance of the silver housings from Monterey but unfortunately people almost always have found some way to have problems with the electronics. I don't know if this has somehow changed recently and now this is an uncommon problem or not. I would appreciate hearing people's recent experience regarding the reliability of these housings. And how many L&M divers travel with spare electronic parts.
  7. I am going to use a Nikon D200 in an Aquatica housing and have a question regarding the Nikon 60mm macro lens. We have 2 versions of this lens...the older AF version and the AF-D version. My wife has the AF-D version on her housed F100, which is great when she shoots TTL. Since I am using using manual flash on my D200 is there any advantage of buying a newer D series lens for my D200 housing, or is it of no benefit. The actual labels: AF Micro Nikkor 60mm 1:2.8 & AF Micro Nikkor 60mm 1:2.8 D Thanks
  8. To paraphrase this...the 8 inch Aquatica dome acts as a divergent lens of -3 diopter power, to neutralize the divergence of the dome you can add a +3D lens which effectively balances out the dome...which means that with a +3D lens the 12-24 should have a minimum focus 11.8 inches from the camera's sensor, or 14.2" for the 17-55 (ie the same minimum focus these lenses have in air). The diopter is necessary if you want to do "really" close focus wide angle.
  9. I assume that you are using an 8 inch Aquatica dome with the +2 diopter on the 17-55/2.8 because that is the lens that uses the 67mm extension ring/port...do you use any diopter on the 12-24/2.8 with the prescribed 34mm ring? Thanks
  10. I am looking for advice on how I can use a Seacam wet diopter on an Aquatica port. This lens has an external o-ring that securely pops into a groove machined into the outside internal lip of the macro port. The Seacam port diam is 10.4cm and the Aquatica port is 12.4cm internal diam. I need to be able to take this on and off the port under water. This is a great lens which converts 1:1 to 1.7:1. It is only 1.4 cm thick so it can easily slip into a pocket, and is much more compact than the only other wet diopter I can find (the Macromate also costs $200 more than the $300 Seacam lens). So if you have any great ideas please let me know. Thanks
  11. If I use an 8 inch Aquatica dome with the Nikon 12/24/4 or 17/55/2.8 will I really need a diopter? I ask this question because Aquatica has specific extension rings for these lenses which should place the lens nodal point close to the dome's nodal point. I suppose that this specific extension ring should optimize edge sharpness...but does anyone know from experience if a diopter is still necessary for proper focussing. I can't determine the true radius of this dome to do the calculation. Thanks for your advice.
  12. Is there a benefit of using a diopter (power?) for the nikon 12-24 or 17-55/2.8 when shot through the Aquatica 8 inch dome? Does anyone know if the minimum focus distance changes, and if so by how much? Thanks...I'm just shifting to digital from film and have never used zoom lenses in my old Aquatica 90 housing.
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