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Isaac Szabo

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Isaac Szabo last won the day on October 14

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About Isaac Szabo

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    Freshwater photography

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    Sony A6500

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  1. Cool shot Tom! I'm looking forward to seeing what else you get from this setup.
  2. My comments were not in reference to WACP versus 230mm but rather to a lack of full resolution example photos from underwater manufacturers/reviewers in general. But yeah, if test charts were available for every underwater optic, that would be very helpful too. That just seems harder to accomplish than providing a few full resolution images.
  3. It has long been common for topside lens reviews to include full resolution examples images. There's no reason underwater lens reviews shouldn't be able to do that. It's also not difficult to share high resolution photos here on this forum if you store the images on an external site and use the "Insert image from URL" option.
  4. I just have to chime in here and say that I completely agree. The lack of full resolution examples from manufacturers and reviewers is a big frustration of mine when it comes to underwater optics. I don't understand why they don't provide them, unless they think it would hurt sales.
  5. I am selling the following components of the Nauticam EMWL system: *130 Objective Lens *Focusing Unit #3 *M67 Bayonet Converter II The objective and focusing unit are in like new condition. They were only tested two times in freshwater. They are pristine and free from any scratches/damage. The bayonet converter shows some minor signs of use as it was a store demo copy when I bought it. The focusing unit #3 is compatible with the Sony 90mm macro, Nikon 60mm macro (DX), Canon RF 100mm macro, and Panasonic 45mm macro. Here is a link to Nauticam’s EMWL port chart. I used the EMWL without the middle relay lens with an external monitor that allowed me to correct the inverted image. If you do not have an external monitor, you will probably want to also get the relay lens. I am asking $2,750 USD, which represents $636 in savings based on Nauticam’s current prices. The buyer will also cover the cost of shipping and any fees associated with the payment (preferably PayPal). While I am new to selling here on wetpixel, I have a lot of experience as an eBay seller. You can check out my eBay feedback here. Or feel free to look me up on facebook, instagram, or my website.
  6. I am selling a Nauticam WWL-1 with the neoprene cover, M67 mounting ring (attached), and bayonet mounting ring. It is well-used but fully functional. The front element does have some minor scratches, and I have tried to show the 2 worst areas in the photos below. The lens already had the scratches when I bought it, and I never had any issues with them showing up in my photos. It is possible that they might show up in photos in certain scenarios (such as close-focusing right on the front element or shooting into the sun), but for most normal photos they should not be an issue at all. I am asking $700, which represents $810 in savings based on Nauticam’s current prices. The buyer will also cover the cost of shipping and any fees associated with the payment (preferably PayPal). While I am new to selling here on wetpixel, I have a lot of experience as an eBay seller. You can check out my eBay feedback here. Or feel free to look me up on facebook, instagram, or my website.
  7. Well in this case it is held on very securely, and I can't image it coming off on its own. There are thumb screws for the hood behind the dome that the loops catch on. But yes, it shouldn't be difficult to DIY something that works with the buoyancy collar using bungee cord.
  8. No, it just stretches over the front. No need to dismount the lens. And it's small and has 2 loops, so it's easy to find a place to store it while in the water. However, I'm guessing it doesn't work with the buoyancy collar on, so that will be an issue for those who use that (I don't). Here are some photos of mine:
  9. Nauticam makes a neoprene cover for the WWL-1.
  10. Here’s a quick overview: I separated the front element from the rest of the lens and used it to make a port (like Seacam does), and I mounted the rest of the lens onto the camera body using the Techart Leica to Sony AF adapter (and a Nikon to Leica adapter). I also had to make some gears and a knob for the aperture control. So I end up with autofocus but manual aperture. I'm sure it doesn’t work as well as getting the lens converted to work on DSLRs and using it on a Nikon DSLR, but it’s surprisingly usable. Another interesting thing is that I can use this same approach to attain autofocus with the older Nikonos lenses. One of my next projects will be to do just that with the Sea&Sea 12mm fisheye.
  11. Again, for my situation the answer is yes. I never said anything about using large domes or shooting at small apertures. I use small domes/lenses and shoot at wide to medium apertures. With my current wide angle setup (Nikon R-UW 13mm) in low light situations I'm able to shoot at f/4 or even f/2.8 if necessary and still get pretty darn good image quality. And if I'm having to raise the ISO to 2500 or similar I'm going to be getting better image quality than if I was using a smaller sensor. I realize that my situation is not applicable to you or others who use strobes, but I never claimed that it was. I was just relaying my experience that for those of us who shoot natural light a larger sensor can be advantageous. If you don't like my perspective/gear choices, that's fine. But there's no need for you to get on here and tell me that I'm wrong. I would certainly never criticize you for using a MFT camera. I think it's great that you're happy with what you're using. There are no universal right or wrong answers to "what camera/lens is best" type questions because different people can have very different needs.
  12. With natural light underwater photography I'm often shooting in low light at high ISO values. So a larger sensor that provides better low light performance makes a bigger difference for me than it does for general shooting on land that is done at lower ISO values. It's the same reason why full frame sensors are advantageous for milky way photographers. And besides that, I also really value the extra resolution. I currently shoot on a 42mp sensor, and as far as I know APS-C and MFT don't offer anything close to that yet. Just because a high resolution FF sensor isn't useful for you doesn't mean it isn't useful for other people.
  13. As someone who only does natural light underwater photography, full frame's superior low light performance offers a definite advantage for me. I also really appreciate the higher resolution. And a full frame setup doesn't necessarily have to be huge. My FF Sony mirrorless + Nikon R-UW 13mm combo is smaller than most APS-C DSLR setups.
  14. There's not really a contradiction there. The webpage just shows a smaller list of compatible lenses and is reflective of the information Nauticam was putting out when the EMWL was first released. The port chart has been produced at a later time after they had done more testing and added over twice as many lenses to the compatibility list. Ideally they would update the webpage to be more current/complete, but the information that is included on the webpage does exactly match the port chart, so it shouldn't lead to anyone ordering the wrong part.
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