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Isaac Szabo

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Isaac Szabo last won the day on January 9

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About Isaac Szabo

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    Freshwater photography

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    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony A6500

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  1. Though I certainly had better results than yours, I was never fully satisfied with my results using things like micromesh, brasso, etc. My domes were usable afterwards but not perfect (still a tad hazy). More recently I purchased an inexpensive ($70) benchtop buffer and got near-perfect results (and with so much less effort). Just be sure to use a soft buffing wheel and a compound made for plastics if you go this route, and obviously keep the dome moving (buffing the same spot too long could lead to problems).
  2. Nice images, Adam. However, obviously it all depends upon one's situation and subject matter. Not everyone shoots large subjects in open water with artificial lighting. I'm normally shooting small subjects in shallow freshwater streams with natural lighting. And yes, many of my wide angle shots could not be gotten with a large dome. Here are a few examples with subjects less than an inch from a 4" dome (closer than a large dome could get) and/or with the housing pressed against the stream bottom (lower than a large dome could get):
  3. I have 4", 6" and 9" domes to choose from, but I almost always go with the 4" (unless I'm shooting splits). A significant percentage of my wide angle shots would not be possible with a large dome. I'm often shooting subjects that are nearly touching the 4" dome or maneuvering the camera into tight spaces/low angles, things that wouldn't be possible with a large dome.
  4. Sure Sonia, here you go: Also, after inspecting the sealed hole in the housing, it appears that the Scigrip 16 may have produced a better bond to both the housing and the cables than the silicone did. So I might retract my previous statement and instead recommend using Scigrip 16 if you're wanting to go the sealant route. The downside is that if for some reason it didn't work out it would be very difficult to undo. Another simple/inexpensive idea worth looking into is to use an o-ring to create a seal between the cable and button hole. First you would measure the outside diameter of the cable and the inside diameter of the button hole with precision calipers. Then you would try to source an o-ring with a inner diameter slightly smaller than the cable diameter and an outer diameter slightly larger than the hole diameter so that it would create a seal when placed between them. You would also have to make some stops on the cable so that the o-ring couldn't slide out of the button hole. And for some safety margin, you could use several o-rings if the button hole is long enough. The nice thing about this option is that it is completely nondestructive and could easily be undone if it didn't work out.
  5. Hi Sonia. Several years ago I made an external monitor setup using a Meikon housing for a Sony A6300. Rather than cutting the HDMI cable, I drilled a hole in the housing large enough for the end of the cable to fit through (as well as cables for power and remote control). I think I sealed the hole with a layer of Scigrip 16 (which bonds well to the ABS and polycarbonate that the Meikon housings are made of) as well as a layer of silicone (since I wasn’t sure how well the Scigrip 16 would bond to the plastic/rubber of the cables). It never leaked and served me well. So I think what you’re trying to do could work out. In your case I would guess that just filling the button hole with silicone might be sufficient. A nice thing about that is that since silicone remains soft it could probably be undone if it doesn’t work out. Another good thing is that you can try it and make sure it doesn’t leak before ever putting the camera in there. Another aspect of that project that may be of interest to you is that I was able to control the camera by modifying a Sony IR remote control (like this one). The basic idea is that you have to open up the remote and desolder the IR LED from the circuit board, position it to be close to the IR receiver on the front of the camera grip, and then connect it back to the remote by soldering a length of two wires in-between. It was inexpensive and pretty easy, and it was very useful to be able to take photos, start/stop recording, and change settings remotely while viewing the external monitor. So if you think you’re got enough room to fit the wires through the button hole in addition to the HDMI cable, this might be something worth trying. Good luck!
  6. Well that's very unhelpful of them. I'd be happy to do it for you for minimal cost. It's really easy for a camera technician like myself, only takes around 10 minutes. However, I doubt you'll want to do that considering the cost/time of international shipping. If you were to do it yourself, you would indeed have to keep track of more than a dozen screws, but it doesn't necessarily require any cable pulling. That said, if you aren't concerned with affecting the resale value of the camera, then probably the easiest option is to just break/cut it out.
  7. Hi Hory. Yes, I have removed the USB/HDMI door from my A6500 because the camera would not fit into my housing with the door open (in my case, this was for a for a remote shooting setup with external monitor/battery). To remove the door non-destructively, you have to disassemble the camera a little. It's been several years, but if I remember correctly once you get the back of the camera off you can slide the metal rod out of the hinge and then remove the door. If you are comfortable disassembling cameras, here are instructions for disassembling the A6300 (they will also work for the A6500). I think you only have to get to the 6th photo in those instructions to be able to remove the USB/HDMI door. However, please be aware that there is the potential to mix up screws or damage the camera during disassembly, so I only recommend this for those who are comfortable/experienced doing this type of stuff.
  8. Hi, I'm Isaac from Arkansas. I'm primarily interested in freshwater photography in the southeastern US.
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