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Everything posted by mexwell

  1. Hi all, I just returned from the exib and like to inform you of a lens I never heard of before. Tokina had a working 12-14mm lens at their booth and I was able to snap some shots with the attched D70 to get an idea of it. I am not 100% sure if I remeber the apperature value of the lens correct but I think it was 4 for the whole zoom range. Attached you find two pics. One at 12mm and one at 24mm. Reduced in size and saved with 70% compression due to size restirctions on wetpixel. Both where shot at f4 and 1/100 and 1/200 sec. The lens had a good feel, size and weight in my opinion and will be available in november for nikon and in january for canon slrs. The the price should be around 500,- Euro the spokesman said. Did anyone of you heard anything of this lens already? I cant find any information on the web. But perhabs I am just blinded by the light.... :-) UPDATED Post: Uups, I just saw that I named the images wrong. Sorry, but everybody noted that already ... :-)
  2. I have been at the Photokina in Cologne today and asked Tamron about the lens. The rep said, that he has absolutly no information on a price and that the lens will be available in the first Quater 2005. The had no working lens at hands. Just one sample behind glas. It looked quite small and thin compared to the simga 12-14 I tested just a few minutes before. I would not put too much faith in that one. I saw something else on the Tokina booth but that is worth a different thread...
  3. Hi Debbie, I suggest to start with the macro lens. With it you will get the best results within the shortest time! Plus it has an fixed focal lenght -> one thing less to wonder about in the first dives. Set the focus point to center, set f/10 and a shutter speed to 1/60 or 1/80. For macro shoots you get very close to the object. So the only thing you have to change at the beginning is the strobe power. Take some shoots with this settings and review them carefully under water. The histogram feature is very useful to see under- or overeposure.... When you did a few dives with this settings you will find it natural to change them and go in any other direction.... I wih you the best for your trip and enjoy your rebel.....
  4. Well DEMA will be when DEMA will be... :-) No seriously: http://www.demashow.com/index.html 13 - 16 october Did you saw Ikes new eTTL annoucement: http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/2canonTTL.html There he mentions updated DS-50 and DS-125 strobes. Perhabs those are the new models?
  5. Hello all, Ike just released the news to the web: http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/2canonTTL.html It seems that the solution is made out of two parts. 1) an eTTL capable DS-50 or DS-125 (have a look at the mentioned serials) 2) an addon circuit for the DigitalRebel housing Availability somewhere in october. Older housings can be retrofitted but no further details on that... Ike rocks!!!
  6. @wesley Congrats! I really like the "feeling" of your site. I like the land shots even more then the underwater ones. You have THE eye!!!
  7. Hi! I don't either of them but if you google for Jürgen Koschinke (the correct spelling in german) you get an email adress of an Jürgen Koschinke from Berlin. Perhabs it works... Give it a shoot: http://www.google.com/search?hl=de&ie=UTF-...&btnG=Suche&lr=
  8. I owned an Ike video housing (JVC) and own now an digital rebel housing. I was and am absolutely happy with the quality of the housing and everything related to Ikelite. Highest recomendation and no problem with fogging and/or condensating...
  9. Have a look at the "20D & 10-22mm" thread. There you find a lot of details regarding diameters and stuff...
  10. Julian, thanks for the details. If those turn out to be true it should be no problem.... Th 16-34mm EF has the same diameter and is supported by Ikelite: http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controlle...48&modelid=7487 My guess is we have a winner on board.... ..und tschüß
  11. Hello again, just compared the 10-22mm EF-S to canons 16-34mm EF lens. I couldn't find the max diameter of the EF-S glass but canon states that both use 77mm filters and at some other sources state that both lens should be very, very simliar. Thern I checked Ikes statement on the 16-34mm lens and voila it works in an dome port and with a special zoom clamp even zooming is no issue.... Let's hope it workes out that way. If yes 300D and 20D owners will have plenty of wideangle fun... :-)
  12. Hi all, I wonder how big the diameter of the new 10-22mm glass will be. AFAIK the Sigma 12-24mm wont fit in any Ikelite housing because of its large diameter... I hope this wont be the case with the new canon lens.
  13. Has anyone experience with the new (and I suppose only available) new version of the muvo? I read somewhere that they "soldered" the md to the case and that it is no longer possible to remove it without destroying it... Input appriciated :-)
  14. Hi Jerome, the picture you posted looks fine. Perhabs a bit to much red but thats mostly a matter of personal taste.
  15. @craig I hope you will write something... [hint, hint] I love your pics and always wonder what the pic would look like without those different "red" filters?! Can you give us filter-beginners some information to get a good start and dont ruin to much dives by using the wrong material? Geetz Christian
  16. No, but there are several (at least 4 I know of) people here that own this housing and can answer your questions. What do you want to know?
  17. Well I think the stingray shot suffers only little in the same way as the grouper does. In that shot IMHO the angel was a little to much downward and what bothers me most is the background. If the background would be dark blue or black and not the body of the fish the eye would "pop" out and look more appealing to me. Hope that helps?
  18. Well William, number one rule in uw-photography is "get near". Rule of thumb for macro is "what you could (!) touch with your hand is in good distance". Even if you think the subject is within strobes reach there is plenty of water between the subject and your lens. And water acts as a filter in various ways... This filter effect is the reason why the colours look a bit greyish and "off". This also explains why you always use the DS-125 in full throttle which is not normal either. If you want to improve your output I suggest getting nearer to your subjects next time. There is no telephoto underwater. Give it a try and you will probably see what I mean. Regarding RAW files. I understand how they work and tried them in several instances. For myself I decided that I wont convert to RAW completley before I didn´t aquired the needed photography and photoshop skills. Of course then I cant go back and enhance my older shots. But that is the sacrifice I take...
  19. You might get me wrong. I judge from the RAW and not from the processed image and the colours don´t show much signs of flash exposure. If you were within a 3ft. range to the subject you should get very bright colours without (!) any photoshopping! Judging from the pictures (mainly the RAW files) there is something wrong with the exposure of the pics. It might be that the strobe isn´t pointed at the subject, its underpowered, not in sync... or something I can not think of at the moment. I would love to hear from others if the agree or if I am of the track?! Attached you find an fish image with NO photoshopping done. Do you get what I am trying to say? After looking at the grouper RAW again I come to think that you have been to far away from the subject ... How far were you away from "him"? If there would have been no strobe light at 80ft the picture would show much less and more bluish colours. It might be just the distance to subject.
  20. William, at what depth and with what strobe setting was the grouper pic taken? It looks like no or only very little strobe light has reached the fish. On a probably flashed pic you should see far wmore colours.
  21. Yeah, I guess it is matter of taste and thats fine. I mostly preffer natural colours and more "warmer earth" tones. On my first dives with the rebel I fixed the focus points to one center point. If you want to reposition a focused subject you can hold the shutter half-depressed and move the camera to compose the picture differently. The focus will stay loked. Only if you move the camera closer to or away from the object the rebel will focus again. Try that on land to see how it works. PS: Waiting for next weeks picture :-)
  22. Hi william, the modified versions look to unnatural to me. Many pieces of sand and some of the fish are blown out and I dont like the strong contrast. As always I gave it a try and like to hear what you think. Regarding the strobe settings I suggest you overthink your settings (f-stop, exposure and flash). I use the DS-50 which is far less powerfull and I (nearly) never used it at full output on my macro shots. On the stingray a lower flash setting would have helped to not overexpose certain areas of the picture.
  23. I checked the pic on three different systems (one calibrated, two not) and stay with my opinion. But I guess it is just a matter of taste and thas fine for me. @scorpio_fish What noise did do you mean/in which area of the pic?
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