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Everything posted by azcaddman

  1. Used, but never flooded housing for OMD EM5-mII includes aftermarket leak detector, spare body o-ring (not used), front cap. very good condition, no scratches on port. will ship in orig boxes $350usd plus shipping from Canada (local pickup available in Oshawa area) pm if you need any additional photos
  2. You can also order from http://www.divervision.com/howshot-spare-o-ring-for-ys-fiber-adapter-FA-OR.html?search=howshot%20o-ring (i've ordered the howshot cable ends, they work fine with generic toslink cables )
  3. here's the email I send my dive buddies, when they ask where to get glove like my wife & I have used for the last couple years. weist seal is intact, so you can switch back to wet gloves if you need to. I just put the liners on, then the suit, with the wrist seal sitting on top of the liner, this lets the air (slowly) equalize between glove & suit. if you get a leak, take the gove off, & pull the liner from under the seal, put the glove back on. Some people use straws etc to equalize, but i've never tried that option. only had 1 flood, after the glove was cut somehow... 2 min later, new glove installed, and back in business (wrung the water out of the liner, and used it on the 45 min dive, still warm) http://comdive.com/ringkits.html is the place for the Viking dry gloves .. the bayonet system is the one you want. Don’t bother ordering with any gloves, just the basic kit.. tell him you were referred from decostop, might get a better price. Then get atlas 620 gloves http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=34379F http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___92853 are the gloves we really like.
  4. sold a while ago, thought I had closed this thread.
  5. 1 person is ahead of you on the cables james.. if it falls thru, they're yours. Art
  6. shipping - USPS priority international would be $25.00, I would split that with you, so cost for 1 lens, shipped would be $112.00 payment - I would prefer paypal condition - the optics on both lens are clear, no scratches etc. the threads on both are also good. the outer body (paint) has some small chips, as you can see in the photos http://www.malone-az.com/for-sale/inon-165/ this is only cosmetic, does not affect its use at all. If you wanted both lens, I would cover all the shipping, total cost to you would be $200.00
  7. Inon 100° wide angle lens, SOLD ---------- Inon UCL-165M67 Macro lens (2 availible, price is each) The UCL-165M67 close-up lens has a 165mm focal length and makes high magnification close-up photography possible by shortening the close focus distance, allowing the photographer to get closer to the subject. Also, the lens is designed to work effectively both above and below water, allowing the photographer to capture macro subjects above water, and in wet or splash type environments. Large photos at http://www.malone-az.com/for-sale/inon-165/ $100 obo (each) incl shipping/insurance (to US address) (USPS Priority)
  8. Ikelite SS200 strobes (3 availible, price is each), works with film cameras (TTL), and digital cameras , if used in combination with 4100 slave sensor (ornange ones) and if the camera has manual flash control(no pre-flash). I have personaly used this setup with canon s70, and a640 cameras, it will work with others that have manual settings. all are in good condition, no corrosion in battery compartments, never flooded, all have been used in the last 2 months, batteries all hold a good charge (shows 3 bars on the battery check function of strobe) Ikelite was offering the option of converting SS-200's into DS-200's about a year ago, I'm not sure if this is still an option, feel free to contact ikelite and find out. each includes 1 battery, protective cap for cord connection, extra o-ring (new), and diffuser Large photos at http://www.malone-az.com/for-sale/strobes/ $250 obo (each) incl shipping/insurance (to US address) (USPS Priority) Also availible are 2 chargers for these strobe batteries. (not for NIMH battery packs, just the NICAD ones) $30 (each) with any of the strobes. Also availible is 1 spare battery, for $10 with any of the strobes. ---------------- Ikelite 4100 Slave sensor (3 availible, price is each), works with film cameras (TTL), and digital cameras (Camera must have Manual flash control, and strobe power level is set manualy on the strobe. I have personaly used this setup with canon s70, and a640 cameras, it will work with others that have manual settings) each includes new batteries, and cord end protector (delrin), fully functional, were used a month ago with ss-200 strobes with no problems. Large photos at http://www.malone-az.com/for-sale/slaves/ $75 obo (each) incl shipping/insurance (to US address) (USPS Priority) ------------ Ikelite 4102.03 strobe cable extensions (2 availible, price is each) 3' long, in good condition, cable ends are clean. Large photos at http://www.malone-az.com/for-sale/cable%20extensions/ http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/sync_cords.html $45 obo incl shipping/insurance (to US address) (USPS Priority)
  9. Canon A-640 Camera, 2 sets of 2700ma nimh batteries, 2gb Sandisk SD memory card, Ikelite Housing, extra o-ring for housing (unused). Camera has been used exclusivly in the housing, so no dust/dirt etc, probably 2500-3000 photo's taken total. In near mint condition. Includes manuals, orig box etc. Housing is 2 years old, minor scratches on sides & back, front port is not scratched in any way. extra o-ring for housing included. Flash difuser blocking plates both included. large photos at http://www.malone-az.com/for-sale/a640-housing/ $525 obo incl shipping/insurance (to US address) (USPS Priority) ---------------- Ikelite double arm base tray, with custom top bar, and video base, and quick relase for base. top bar is from a DSLR setup, then cut down to fit the double arm base tray. Large photos at http://www.malone-az.com/for-sale/double%20tray/ http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/udigacces.html Ikelite Part Numbers 9523.32 0612.7 9360 70.00 obo incl shipping/insurance (to US address) (USPS Priority) -------------- Ikelite 1.25" strobe arms, and various clamps, & Parts prices are 1/2 of what they sell for on B&H, if you find a lower NEW price, let me know & I'll sell the part for 1/2 that. Qty . Ike Part No . Description ............ Price (each) 2 .... 9577.42 ..... for DS-200, Ai, 100A ... $10 7 .... 9577.2 ...... clamp for 1.25" arms ..... $18 3 .... 9577.3 ...... mounting stem (short) ... $10 4 .... 9577.1 ...... Ball at tray 1.25" ........... $10 4 .... 0468.06 ..... ball arm - 6" long .......... $18 Large photo at http://www.malone-az.com/for-sale/arm-parts/ prices do not include shipping/insurance, willing to deal on for multiple items.
  10. It's got a favorable review at Luminous Landscape - both for low noise, and fast (for digicam) focus.
  11. looking to sell my 2 spots on the ss thorfin (recently refited/updated ) week of sept 13-20, air not included. pricing is negotiable - best offer, I paid $2995.
  12. the setup also works in wrecks .. nothing stopping you from practicing it anywhere (I do at a local lake, also a good place to practice laying line, and other skills.
  13. ok here you go. -tanks are LP 85's, arm lenth is 6" (in between the balls) from above profile attachment closeup if the stub is too long, you could use a thumbwheel on both sides of the adapter, to stand it away from the tanks a bit. (i use Deep sea thumbwheels for this, works great) This shows the 2 ways I've attached them.. top has the advantage of a little shorter, so no gap between strobe & bottom of tanks (not a big deal either way), and it can be eaisly removed/attached once you're in the water. the lower setup has the added flexability of the 2nd ball, making it easier to rotate the strobe to fine tune what it's pointed at. I turn the modeling light on, so the model can see that the strobe is pointed at what I want it at (if it's to the side - this makes it easier for them to know if they're in position or not - for that type of shot. here's an exploded veiw of the components for each - I like the 1.25" ball arms, better grip for the heavy strobes (and they're what i've had for years, since before the 1" ones came out) this one illustrates pointing the strobe at 45° or so to the diver, you're not limited to straight behind etc. when stowed, we coil the sync cord/slave strobe, and place in the model's pocket so it's out of the way, take it out to shoot photos, then re-stow it. just remember to take the strobes off while you're still in the water... models HATE standing around waiting for you to do it on land, before they can set the tanks down on a bench/tailgate etc Art
  14. http://www.ikelite.com/web_two/uarmatray.html - whichever size matches your strobe arms... these are your friends for cave photos. Mount one to the lower set of tank bands (works best if the bands are assembled w/threaded rod, so you have a 'stub' on the back side to attach the 9577.1 to) then attach your strobe arm to it (6-8" arms are good), and mount your strobe to the arm. If the strobe is pointing down, it's really streamlined, and nothing sticks up higher than the tanks themselves, restrictions are not a problem. When you get to where you want to take the photo, flip up the strobe, point where you want it, and shoot away. (3 foot extensions for strobe cord cables are a good idea also, allowing the diver to handhold the slave sensor). don't forget to turn the modeling light off when you're done though, anybody behind the diver with a tank mounted strobe will really appreciate not having to look at that light for the rest of the dive.
  15. I use iwatermark (pc and mac versions avail) , quick & easy, does a watermark on image at fixed % of image size, also will resize image(s) for web posting (a directory at a time). calibration - I've been using colorvision spyder products for a while, good results for the price.
  16. ahh, cave photos .. something I can help with started out with housed film (nikon), then on to canon a640. remote strobes are your friend ... I use an Ikelite adapter to go from the lower threaded rod on the doubles, to an arm system, use a 6" arm, then mounted to the strobe, then use a 3' extension, on a slave sensor, and you have the abilty to aim the strobe where you want it, and the diver holds the sensor (hopefuly pointing it at you).. works great with the black ikelite 200 strobes (i'm in the process of 'painting' my sensors so they're black also. when not taking the photo, the strobe tucks in behind (below) the tanks, the sensor goes in the divers pocket, no entanglement risks, still nice & streamlined. My current setup is the a640/ike housing, inon 100° wide angle (wet lens), 2 ss200's on the housing, 1 on the model's back next trip (october) i'll play around with positioning a strobe or 2 on the floor, behind something (again the 3' extension on the cord is a big plus now.. for some photos one of the last ones I did on film similar shot, with the a640 2 divers with back mounted strobes, 1 on camera same 2, one on left has black strobe, one on right is the orange one (soon to be sharpied black) lots more photos here it can be slow to load sometimes, be patient.
  17. with a 'non permanent' (loads each time you power on the camera) hack, you get 12bit raw out of the canon a640 here is the main page on it, and an overview here.
  18. I emailed them describing the problem, they asked me to send the housing, and lens in, and they would adjust it. actualy it's easy to illustrate.. take 2 q-tips, or similar diameter items, pass them thru the holes in the perimeter of the lens port (where the water goes in behind the threads) .. if they don't cross in the center of the camera lens .. the alignment is off
  19. I also use the a640/ike/inon wide lens .. sent the housing, and lens to ikelite to re-align the port after my 1st trip with it, they shimmed it a bit differently, moved the pins a little, and moved the padding around the lens barrel a bit. now i dont have as bad of shadows in the corners.. but they're still real soft, I've tried it with both the type 1, and type 2 (bought the conversion part, its cheap). Its better with type 1 (shorter threads, bringing the wet lens closer to the housing/camera, but still not as good as i'd like. I think its just an issue with the inon and this housing/camera setup, guess it can't work perfect with every combination. photo below shows the blurring on the left (text on the line arrows)
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