dmoss

The knob that rotates the mode dial has a set screw on it. You might try loosening the set screw and pulling the knob up on the shaft just a small bit, then retightening the set screw. Should give a little more reach for the rubber pad to make good contact with the dial.

I actually squirted Diet Pepsi out my nose the other night reading the 'Medium Format on Snuba' post.

Oops...now I'm really in trouble.

Hey Bartus... Might want to change your avatar.....looks a little grainy to me. Eric....just kidding !! Oh well, nice knowing everyone. Actually Bartus, I think Dan's petty slam toward you a few days back is what got me most disgusted about this whole mess.

Eric, You've got more patience than me. It was the right decision and must have been tough. The disruption the last few weeks has made me want to stop reading. I can't begin to describe how much Wetpixel has helped me. My pictures still suck, but at least they're getting better. It's a shame that Dan couldn't have joined in with the correct mind set, to learn all he could in a field where he had no experience. Granted, he obviously has experience with land photography and could possibly have been a beneficial contributor. Dan...you may totally ignore this, coming from an amateur and all, but if you would just stop trying to impress everyone, you might actually make some friends here. This statement made yesterday, however, pretty much sums it up for me: "What you may not know is that there is a whole lot of underwater photography shot in pools in NYC, for ad agency work, where fickle art directors look over, and judge you by your gear." Never having been involved with an art director I may be all wrong, but hopefully the end product would weigh more than the price of the gear. I've got my calendar marked for December 5th. Should be interesting.

Looks like some (3,450) of the cameras with serial numbers within the initial range that Canon announced "do in fact have a properly functioning sub-mirror mechanism." Rob Galbraith Update

It's hard to understand how this is annually called "scientific research". Humpback Whale Hunt

Looks like s/n 501001 - 546561 (as Eric & others frantically flip their cameras over searching) Rob Galbraith Update

I had read the Rob Galbraith site and am skeptical as well about the fake circulations that always seem to pop up on the web. I hadn't seen this 'apparently legit PDF letter' yet and thought it interesting. Normally the fake information has to do with new camera releases and specs way ahead of actual release. Edit... I just read Rob Galbraith's site again and he has an update posted yesterday with a copy of the same letter.

Excuse me if this has already been posted, but I couldn't find it. Found this on the-digital-picture.com with the message posted: "In an apparently legit PDF letter floating around the web, Canon UK outlines what is essentially a recall of the Canon EOS 1D Mark III. I expect we will see additional, more official (or at least more public) news regarding this solution in the coming days or weeks." Canon Letter to Dealers Might help someone considering this one as a near term purchase.

You might want to be careful with your approach. Normally when I hint around about new toys mine just rolls her eyes and walks away. I mentioned THIS new rig last night and she got downright mean about it. Impressive shot. We all want to see more.

You would want to use an Ikelite flat port for either the 60 or 100 macro lens. Ikelite makes a special port for the 100 that has a manual focus knob on the port. The flat port for the 60 doesn't have the knob. To manually focus the 60, use a zoom clamp and put it around the focus ring on the lens. Align that with a zoom sleeve that meshes with the zoom/focus knob on the housing. Like Mark, I found that manually focusing the 60 wasn't necessary.

Welcome Gus... I will second James' recommendation on the 60mm. When I had a 20D the 60 was my most used lens. I hate that it's not directly compatible with the 5D. It works very well for night dives. It can double as a macro as well as for medium sized critters. I use the 100mm now with the Ike manual focus port. I find it difficult to manually adjust for accurate focus while looking thru the viewfinder and seldom use the knob. Maybe that's just me though with my aging eyes. I also had the 17-85 lens. I used it for a couple of dives but found the 10-22 to be much more useful. I shot GOBBBBS of wide angle stuff with that. (Also a technical term).

You might want to look at Photoshop Elements 5.0. It doesn't have all the tools in CS3, but it's a fraction of the cost and will do a lot of things CS3 does. It will prepare you for a future jump to CS4, CS5, etc. Regardless of what you use, the first timer will wonder "How do I know what to do with all these filters and tools" ? Scott Kelby has some excellent books on the Photoshop products in an easy to follow format that tells you exactly what to do to get the results your're after. Scott Kelby Elements 5.0 There are obviously other books that teach Photoshop techniques. This is just the one I prefer. Hope this helps,

Speaking of been there done that fixes... You've got the sync cords with the blue band, right ? Cords attached directly to the strobe (no manual EV controller in between), right ? Sorry if this sounds too obvious.

Appears Canon is addressing the focus issue....at least the AI Servo issue. Letter that Canon Service Center is apparantly including with returns. Found this on a website: Some Canon 1D Mark III owners are reporting that Canon Service Centers are installing firmware v1.0.9 on their DSLRs. Following is the text of the letter that is suposedly returned with the updated cameras ... _________________________________________________________ EOS-1D Mark III Firmware Update, Version 1.0.9 Dear Canon Customer; We have updated the firmware in your camera to the latest version (Version 1.0.9). This firmware update incorporates the following improvements and fixes: 1. Improves the look of images when enlarged on the LCD monitor. Applies a slightly stronger sharpness setting to the LCD monitor when images are enlarged. 2. Counter measures for Main Dial response errors (Main, Quick Control, Vertical-grip Main). Fixes a rare response error in the Main Dials in which they either did not respond when rotated or would change several clicks' worth even if only clicked once. 3. Improves the consistency of AI Servo AF under certain conditions. Reduces the tendency of the camera to autofocus on high-contrast backgrounds when shooting in conditions where AF detection is difficult, such as when the main subject is not completely covered by the AF frames or if the main subject's contrast is low. 4. Corrects errors in the Italian and Simplified Chinese menu screens. Please note that this Version 1.0.9 firmware will be made available for download from the Web at the end of July. However you will not need to take any action as your camera has already been updated. Thank you for your understanding.

Dejan, A did a search in the forum and found a post from 2 years ago when the C7070 came out. I remember quite a bit of discussion about the use of Olympus housings for this camera. Ike (rest his soul) posted this: "7070 fits in Ikelite 5060 housing, but not in Olympus PT-020 or Light & Motion housings. The Ikelite housing provides conversion circuitry to allow genuine Olympus TTL with a DS50 or DS125 SubStrobe. mtzenz has the PT-020 which can not provide TTL except when used with Olympus tiny strobe and its housing, or when a converter from Germany is installed. Following forum discussed some of this confusion: http://www.digitaldiver.net/yabbse/index.p...did=11567" If I remember correctly, the C7070 power lug and control wheel were just slightly different than the C5060 which wouldn't allow the 7070 to fit in the PT020 housing. There were also some complaints about the 7070 and the poor autofocus in low light. Hope this helps

I would add one thing to David's good instructions on the super wide stalk. Mount the dome on the housing before you mount the housing back plate, camera and lens. This way you can look inside the housing to make sure the o-ring hasn't jumped track.

Although built and marketed toward a different clientele <_< ...this little screamer, with a few modifications like a camera table and Seat Belts, would definitely get you to the dive site ahead of the crowd Check It Out

Well, you get my vote for 'Nice Guy Of The Year'. For all he put you thru, you should at least figure out some way to make him sweat a little. Like hold on to the second check for a while before you send it back....say...six months or so. Glad everything worked out for you

I've used the Visible Dust products such as THIS in the past and it works well. Sometimes just blowing the dust particles off the sensor merely relocates them within the chamber, only to settle back on the sensor. The little battery powered whirling brush in the kit does a great job of removing dust. The kit also contains some chemically treated swabs to remove stubborn spots and droplets. Take your time and follow the instructions (that's right, guys DO know how to read directions) and it's pretty easy to clean. Sensors are somewhat delicate and if you are a little nervous about swabbing droplets off of it yourself, you maybe better off to take it to a shop to have it cleaned. Hope this helps.

Amazon has it listed available for preorder. Release date 3/30 for $1600 Canon 16-35 II

The lens does look interesting. Disappointing that it's designed with an 82mm filter thread. That means a new set of filters for topside and if anyone wants to experiment with diopters.....I'm not sure if there are any out there. Maybe the lens performance will be so good we won't need diopters.

Joe, Most manufacturer's warranty is pretty clear that they won't cover repairs if the owner has attempted to repair the item first. I don't expect Ikelite to be any different in this respect. I know this is hindsight, but it may have been best just to box up the charger and send it in to them when you got home. If it was still under warranty, Ikelite would have replaced it. As they stated, the chargers aren't made by Ikelite. I've got two of the new chargers and one of them has a very tight connector, while the other one is a little loose. Whoever makes the connector...that supplies the charger maker....that supplies Ikelite....may have a consistency issue with their components. Even though Ikelite has an obligation to stand behind (warranty) their equipment, I don't feel a bad connector is an Ikelite quality issue. Regarding the original post asking about the DS125, it's obvious that the 'general' consensus is that they are good. The fast recycle time is a paramount feature. Until someone makes a strobe that is guaranteed to never fail or break or explode under any conditions....I'll stick with the DS125. A lot of shooters with top of the line cameras and extremely expensive aluminum housings are using Ike strobes. As a sidenote, in reading thru this very interesting thread, It would be fun to see what a post from the "Addled Shopkeeper" would have looked like. I'm sure he would have entertained us all. R.I.P. Ike

Chris, Not to worry. Many here use the same equipment (8" dome with the short stalk) without problems. Just check the port before you jump in to make sure it is rotated completely. It's a good idea to assemble the port to the housing first to make sure the O-ring is in it's proper track, then install the camera and back plate. Any housing can leak if not assembled properly and O-rings checked to make sure they are clean and lightly lubricated.