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Posts posted by DuikKees

  1. My WA strobe setup doesn't work very well. I use a SS100A wired to the housing and a SS300 as slave via the internal slave sensor of the SS300.


    The sensor of the SS300 doesn't see the primary flash in WA-setup (strobes far apart).


    When my Ike D70 housing arrives, I want this problem to be solved.


    I have two options to solve this:

    Using a dual synccord, I don't prefer that because the strobe can't be detached underwater and my buddy can't bring the heavy strobe when entering the water (a lot of shorediving via slippery dikes overhere).

    Or I use the (discontinued) Ike TTL-slave sensor, which give me all the freedom I want.

    There is a third option: inserting an extra bulkhead in the housing, and connecting only the "ground-" and "trigger"wire to the first bulkhead, but than I have to drill a hole in my new housing :?


    Is the slave sensor really that good, or is a hardwired system preferable?




  2. Hy,

    Great topic this is.


    I find composition a bit hard with AF-C, you keep changing your focusareas and then you are still bound to 5 positions, or do you have the AF-L selected at the AE/AF-L button to overcome this problem.


    edit: :idea: Ofcourse you have selected AF-L and not AE-L since you are shooting in M, AE-L is useless. I couldn't use the AE/AF with my old camera, so I am not used to it. Whole new possibilities are opening for my eyes right now :shock: .



  3. As promised:





    The springs are connected by a copper strip (a flattend waterpipe-sadle) and hold together by a popnail (don't know the English term)






    Detail off the spring and connection:



    Detail off the outside:



    The unit works great, it is only a bit hard to put the pack together with 6 batteries. I want to make some kind of sleeve, so the batteries stay in place when putting the unit together.




  4. No, no one has tried it


    My name is: "No One" :D


    I've done it, though not with the batterypack of the 125, but with the batterypack of my good old SS300, which was dead.

    It works perfectly again with the modified batterypack.


    Problems I encounterd:

    The batterypack is made of HDPE, so no glue will hold on the material.

    The material is soft, screws will not hold very well.

    There is not a lot of room on the outside of the pack when placed in the strobe, so you can't use bolts.


    I will post some pictures later on today.





  5. I recently purchased a D70, the Ike D70-housing will come later this year.


    This afternoon I was testing my Ike strobes (100A and 300) connected via my old Ike MD-case for the Nikon f601, the shutter stays locked (the flash indicator on the top-LCD screen keeps blinking).


    What am I doing wrong?


    My settings are:

    camera on manual, flash on manual (full) in the menu, strobes on full.


    I hope someone has a solution.





    EDIT: Sorry guys :oops: , it seems that I didn't connect the connector far enough on the hot shoe :oops: , everything is working fine now. :)

  6. Hi,


    First week of october, I went to Marsa Alam, Egypt. It was my last analog trip with my old Nikon f601, since I now purchased a dslr and the housing is soon to come.


    So here are the last slidescans:














    More to come....

  7. Thanks James,


    I have tried the settings yesterday in our murky waters, the macroshots were great, but the WA shots were a disaster. I know that WA-shots with visibility below 4 feet won't work, but I just wanted to test the slavesetting of the SS300.


    It didn't work that well because the slave didn't fire when the strobes were pointed directly ahead or outward. I had to point de strobes slightly inwards, which resulted in overillumintion of the subject and backscatter.


    When this is happening in murky waters, I think the problem will be worse in clear waters (I am going to Egypt this week) or will it work just fine then?


    I thinking of making a little reflector on the top of the slavestrobe to "catch" more light.


    Does anyone have experience of solutions?



  8. I have just purchased an used Ike Ss 300, which I want to use as a slave flash for WA in combination with my Ike ss 100.


    (GN SS300= 42; GN SS100= 28 )


    I want to know what a good startsetting is for this combination in clear waters, since I go on a trip to Egypt in two weeks and the waters in Holland are too dark to do a good test.


    With both strobes to Full, I should have a combined guidenumber of around 45 at ISO 100 (Is this correct?), so f8 with subject at 6 feet and f16 at 3 feet.

    The shutterspeed should be set according to the midwaterreading.


    Is my thinking correct or do you have experience with other settings?


    How exactlly do you calculate the combined guide number with two strobes and with the strobes at 1/2 or 1/4?




    YES, I am still shooting slides, NO I don't have a LCD-display, YES I am still happy with my rig, NO you don't have to feel sorry for me.

  9. Great Gallery Patrick,


    I love the jellyfish and the deadmensthumb (that's how the cold coral is called in Holland)


    Those tropic pictures of manta's and whalesharks of other members are starting to get boring :) It is time for those warmwaterpussy's to see some icy coldwater pictures over here. :P


    Can you give me some more info about diving in Sweden, I am planning to go diving there next summer.





  10. Hai guys,


    I have been around here for a while, but I have never posted some pictures, so here we go.


    I mostly dive in the cold and dark waters of Holland, but the underwaterlive is great.


    The diveboat:






    European Lobster:


















    Japanese Crab



    North Sea Crab



    I hope you like them..





  11. Yes, I already have the MD-case. Shutter won't be the problem since it's at almost the same spot as at my f601. When I shoot in RAW, I don't think you really need acces to the command dials, acces to the apperature is most important then and that's already availible in the case.


    In the end, I don't think I have to make new entries in the case. I will not be able to control everything, but that's fine when I can save a lot of money. I only have to align the cameratray in the case: Does anybody know where I can find the detailed measurements of the D70?


    But I have encountered another problem:

    My Substobe 100 will only be triggered by the D70 in manual mode, I saw that Ikelite have a nice manual controller, but the manual controller does not work with the Substrobe 100 :lol: Is there anyway to work around this problem? Otherwise, I will only have the "half" and "full" settings on the flash. (It should not be to difficult to modify the flash with another controller)


    P.S.: Don't worry about my luck, since I was a child I have modified and improved almost everything to my needs, most things still work, by the way, who said that underwaterphotography was easy. :P

  12. Hello to you all,


    I've been reading and looking on this forum for a while now and its fun and very usefull. I've been searching in the database of wetpixel for my question and I couldn't find any answer direct, so I will ask it here.


    I am planning to go digital (D70), but I don't want to buy a new housing for it. I am planning to modify my Ike SLR-MD f601 case, since its still in very good condition. The SLR-MD is large, so the D70 should fit in.


    My questions are:

    - Are the push buttons of the case, sold seperatly? (I know that the levers are)

    - Does anyone have experience with these modifications?

    - I am making a list of the functions I really want to control: shutter, aperature, zoom, power, replay, whitebalance, ev-control.

    Which other funtions do I really need to control?



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