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Oceanshutter

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Everything posted by Oceanshutter

  1. Hello all, I have a friend and his wife that are thinking of going to the Philippines for a getaway. They both dive, but don't do photos or video. They are probably a 2 dive a day couple, with a couple days off during the week. Their main experience has been day excursions from Cruise ships in the caribbean. So, not too serious divers. They would like to see some more diversity than they have seen in the caribbean They would like a very nice resort, not necessarily a dive resort. Ya know, a resort that actually has a bed mattress, not a foam pad. But one with a nice beach. They also want some fun non diving topside activities. Having been to Anilao and Dumaguete, while I loved them, and would go back in a heartbeat. This might be too "rough" for them. I think they would enjoy reef diving more than muck. I have been looking at Bohol or Moalboal for them. Having not been there, I am nervous, recommending a place for them. Could anyone give me some advice on these locations? Dustin
  2. Thanks for your response. I read that thread before I posted this. It didn't completely answer my question. I saw no mention specifically of Silk Air and carry on's. One person says, that they haven't noticed carry on's being weighed for Internal Indo Flights....Well, singapore to manado is not internal. That is international. Unless I am missing something in that post..... Plus for the checked baggage, I am flying Delta into Singapore, and then Silk air to Manado. So I don't think I can check my baggage all the way thru to Manado. Dustin
  3. For those that have recently flown with Silk air from Singapore to Manado. Do they weigh the carry on bags? We like to try to carry on the all the photo equipment. I see that you get an extra 10 kg if you have scuba gear for checked baggage. For a total of 32 kgs of checked luggage.
  4. Hello, Something caught my eye regarding the port extension for the Canon 8-15mm fisheye in an Ikelite housing. On Ikelite's website, it states that you need to use the 5510.11 port body, with the 8" dome. It is the exact same setup for the regular Canon 15mm. For those of you, who haven't seen the 2 different lenses, the 8-15mm is a much longer lens, than the 15mm. I don't know much about dome theory, but is this right??? With the 8-15mm it is much closer to the acrylic, than the 15mm. Does this matter, image wise? It does fit....but, are my images going to suffer? As this was troublesome, I researched on Aquaticas website, and they have a different setups for the 2 different lenses. Adding to my further suspicions, that there might be a problem here. Anyone with any thoughts on this? Dustin
  5. My wife has been using Ike housing for 8 years...first a 10d and now a 5d mark ii. I also have one for a mark ii. She flooded her housing, by not putting the oring on the dome port, after switching from her macro port. Luckily we had insurance, which we didn't always have. Much cheaper through home owner insurance than through DAN. This was operator error, Obviously. What we learned from this was: 1. Don't forget your orings 2. Always test in a rinse tank before you go on the boat 3. Always have insurance, even going to the pool 4. Don't put your housing together right after a massage.......this is what she did before she forgot the oring. Having said all of that. I do like the back oring on Ike housings, as you can see it when you close up the housing. I don't like the dome port setup however.....That scares the hell out of me. My only other Ike problems are stuck buttons......
  6. Bill, you caught my attention! I just purchased the Canon 8-15mm fisheye, and according to Ikelites website, If I want to use the lens at 8mm, then I have to remove the dome shade. I also, will no longer be able to use the lock if I do that. Do you have a solution for that? Also, how do you do the vacuum leak with an Ike housing? I checked your website and it doesn't say anything about it. thanks, Dustin
  7. Drew, I am using a Ikelite DSLR housing. You are right it is unbalanced and heavy. Overall, it is negative, but the dome wants to float. This was a consideration in making my decision. A few days ago, I wrote out a pros and cons list for each arm. Here is what I came up with: Locline Pros Easy to Move Locline Cons Creeking Might not hold the weight. Might flop in Current with heavy lights May break/not as durable More difficult to add length Can't lift with arms/possible issue with boat crews Makes the housing heavier Won't last forever Ultralight Arms Pros Will never break Have backups because wife shoots photos with them Able to add Stix floats to help with balancing and buoyancy Will not move in stong current No creaking Easy to customize size.....Have 12, 8 and 5 inch already for the wife Able to use the arms for stabilization during wide angle shots not using lights. (hold it by the arms, not the handles on the housing) Can use same arms for tri pod legs, more flexibility Can lift housing with the arms Keeps its value, from a resale standpoint Ultralight Arms Cons Harder to move into position than Locline If anyone else has anything to add that I am not thinking of please do. Having said that, in my eyes, the pros in the Ultra lights outweighed the pro for the Locline. Granted, easier to move would be nice. And that is a bigger deal than some of the other advantages for the Ultralights. But having come from a still background, those are the only arms I know. So i don't think the transition will be too difficult. I purchased two 8" and two 5" a couple days ago, and just received them today. Will be trying them out this weekend at Crystal River. Dustin
  8. Steve, After trying these out in the pool yesterday, I came back and re read what you said. In particular this part: ' However, if you see that there are any hotspots, try separating the two lights so that the diffused edges slightly overlap rather than have both aimed directly at the subject. This will provide a nice spread of light and avoid hot spotting. ' This is more a question for daylight shooting......Should I be pointing both lights at the same place? Not worrying about the lack of coverage everywhere else in the frame? In the pool I was trying for maximum frame coverage. And couldn't get it with the 2 4000's. I was using a 15mm fisheye. So it is obvisouly very wide. Instead of trying to fill the whole frame with light, should I be pointing both of the lights at the same subject/location? I understand not wanting a hotspot. But in general, should I be pointing them both in the same spot. Again, this question is for wide angle day time work. I understood your macro recommendations. Top and side. Let me know. I appreciate your help with this. Dustin
  9. Drew, I am using a Ikelite housing for the DSLR, and a acrylic 8" dome. Before I added lights, it was negative. Haven't tried it in the pool with lights. About to go in an hour, to test it. I also, added some lead tape that I put on the bottom of my dome cover to help balance it a little better. as the dome wanted to go up. It is better, but isn't perfect.
  10. Don't think that was me. Although I have dived in the 'cave' you are referring to. It is called 'the crater' at the homestead it is about 15 minutes outside of park city. It isn't really a cave. Its about 75 feet wide and goes down to about 63 feet. The water is about 95 degrees year round. So this is where open water students get certified during the winter. Fun to do once. But that's it. Thanks for your input.
  11. Thats the problem. Here is Utah, there are dive shops but they don't carry anything for photo and video stuff that isn't the entry level, cheap, easy sell stuff. So I have to rely on what I read here...... Do think with the nocturnal arms and mixing them with a ball clamps it will hold in place good enough? It seems to me, that if I have a nocturnal arm that is attached to a ball and clamp on both the housing and the light side, bending the arm would also move the clamp. That would seem counter productive to me. What do you think?
  12. What size would you recommend? the 18 or 12's? considering the weight of the lights. and Current I will be in. Heading to Maldives and Komodo the next two trips, so I will have some current. How long have you been using yours?
  13. Steve, How do you like those arms? I looking at them now online. http://www.nocturnallights.com/photo-and-v...inch-45-cm.html assuming you like them, would you go for the 12 inch or the 18 inch arms? I have to mount the lights to a ikelite housing? So I would need the the quick release the clamp, and then a hybrid adaptor to connect the light, as it has a ball mount. What do you think of that setup?
  14. Thanks Steve. I bought the lights from Backscatter, and they recommended the ULCS arms, as the flex arms they say won't hold these lights well because of the weight. I already have two 12 inch ULCS bouyancy arms (one each side). Do think this will be awkward not having 2 sections? What is the ideal length? for Wide Angle, I mainly shoot with a 15mm fisheye canon on a 5d mark ii. For macro, I plan to use a 50mm or the 100mm. Dustin
  15. Hello all: I will be using Lights for the first time shooting underwater. Just put in an order for a couple of L&M 4000's. Having searched the archives, I couldn't find anywhere that describes where to position my lights while shooting W/A or Macro. Is there anywhere there is a discussion regarding light positions? If so, could you please direct me to it. If not, what is the general rule of thumb here? Being in land locked Utah, USA. There aren't many underwater videographers to bounce my questions off of. So the members of Wetpixel have been of great help to me. thanks for your help in advance. Dustin
  16. Thanks everyone. I have decided to go with the 4000's. The person who sold them to me, said that the flexible arms will not be strong enough to handle the weight of these. So I am moving towards some ULCS arms. I already have two 12 inch bouyancy arms. What would you guys recommend would be a good length? Is one section okay? Or should I do a 2 section. Not sure how much you end up adjusting your lights in Video. In photo, my wife has a 8 inch and 5 inch on each side. What do you think?
  17. The reason I am considering the 2, is because my wife has the sola 600 photo light, and we think it is great. Haven't had any problems with it, and the burn times seem reasonable to get 2 dives out of it. I am hoping to do the same with either the 2000 or 4000's.
  18. As I just started tackling this myself a year or so ago. Everyone here has helped me a considerable amount. There are many past posts that cover this. But in general, here are my recommendations: - Depending how good you want the video to look, will determine, how you shoot. Auto for the most part will not look great. I do manual, as was recommended to me by many others on Wetpixel. manual really isn't that difficult. - Because I am in the USA, I use 30 fps. In most cases you want your shutter speed to be double your frame rate. So for me it is 1/60th. if you you use 24 fps, the 1/50th. - Aperature - you want to keep this in the f11 to f8 range -Iso - as low as you can get the better. I use a 5d so iso is better than the 550d. But I try to keep mine below 640. Have fun. Dustin
  19. Hello all. I just finished up my short video from a trip to Bonaire we just took. Although the diversity isn't quite what the South Pacific is, it is still fun. I used a Canon 5d Mark II with a 15mm fisheye. I used a magic filter on some of the footage, but I have a hard time getting a good white balance with. I have been finding that unless it is a sunny day, and you are going to be in 20-35 feet. It is very difficult to use. Being only the 2nd dive trip doing video, I am trying to improve and get better with my skills. So please let me know any comments and recommendations you may have so I can improve. Dustin [vimeohd]36300567[/vimeohd] http://vimeo.com/36300567
  20. I am trying to decide between the Sola 2000 and the Sola 4000 lights for video. And need some advice from people that have more experience than I do. I have never used lights in video before, and would like to start. I am wondering if the 4000's are overkill? I film with a Canon 5d mark ii, and generally use a 15mm fisheye lens. My diving is typically tropical. and up to this point all wide angle. Would like to start doing Macro during the day and on night dives. What would I be missing by only getting the 2000's? Meaning, what kind of shots couldn't I get without the 4000's? I plan on buying 2 of whatever I end up deciding on. Money isn't a huge factor, but also, I don't want to spend more just to spend more. I see the other threads about the 4000's and they seem to be great lights. I am sure that the 2000's are great as well. Any help you can provide, would be fantastic. Dustin
  21. So my next question is, if we weren't able to dive the southern sites, because of weather, would you still choose Komodo over Solomon's ?
  22. I did this about a year ago. Although not with an all in one. I just bought a Hauppage capture card, and stuck it in my pc. Then hooked up the VCR or camcorder....with just a coax or rca's to the capture card. IF you aren't comfortable opening your pc and putting a card in, they also sell external ones that will hook in via USB or Firewire. In the software they provide with the capture card, choose the type of file you want and then the highest quality capture rate. Hit play in the software and hit the record button.....Thats it. It is pretty easy. My guess is that it is a lot cheaper this way, and you won't have a big device sitting around collecting dust. Dustin
  23. Thanks for the info. By the way, my wife and I love your site and your trip reports!! We are waiting for you Maldives report! We are headed there in a month. What I am worried about is not being able to dive the south sites in Komodo. I would be going on the Indo Siren, and so I am not sure of the odds of them not doing the south side are. Am I being overly analytical? from my research it looks like Cannibal rock and Manta Alley are some of the best sites in Komodo. And if we can't do them.....well.....that would suck.
  24. Would either of you still go to Komodo at the end of July? I am researching and it is saying that the weather can be bad, so boats don't go to the south sites...
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