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Davide DB

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Everything posted by Davide DB

  1. Problem is that probably the X-Light is not really 15K lumen and 96 CRI. So they are not comparable. Me too. As I wrote I had several of them. Thing is that after 8 years my Keldan is still there, the other are in the bin. Of course you will not find any test of cheaper lights. They are crap. Do you know how many Ali-Express lights I thrown away after two dives? I paid $50 USD for these lights. Following your reasoning I could buy 36 instead of a Keldan. As I wrote before it's only a matter of find a decent product with a reputable service. Definitely lacking in a product that is a fair compromise. I don't think the brands we mentioned really make the products they sell. There is a lack of serious artisans. Everyone is responsible for their own budget.
  2. Two characteristics most touted by underwater lamp manufacturers are Lumen and CRI. The lumen is a measure of the total quantity of visible light emitted by a source per unit of time (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumen_(unit)). Although by now we are all used to lumen to make our comparisons, it would be more correct to use Lux (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lux). Put simply and with some approximation, the lumen measures the light emitted, the lux the light that actually hits the subject on a specific area. I know it is a difficult subject. Maybe @adamhanlon and Alex talked about it in some WP Live episode. We find out the difference in meaning between lumens and lux, when we realize that a small 1000 lumen macro lamp, concentrating all the light on a nudibranch, is able to get us to work at F16 while, at the same distance & ISO, a 10,000 lumen lamp with a 100 degree reflector can't light it enough. In our LED lights, the amount of lumens emitted depends on the characteristics of the LED module itself, the temperature and basically how much current is supplied to it. Each LED module has a datasheet with these values. Unfortunately 99% of underwater lamp manufacturers declare the lumen value simply by copying the factory data of the led module at the maximum possible current. Nothing could be further from the truth. The electronic circuitry and batteries of a lamp are rarely if ever able to provide those values and no manufacturer declares and measures the actual lumen emitted. Amen. Another important value is the CRI, on the meaning of which I will not dwell (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_rendering_index). What I wrote on lumen, applies here as well. At best they quote the data of the manufacturer of the led module used. If you read the last paragraphs of the Wikipedia entry you will realize that the CRI is a much discussed and not very reliable measure for LEDs. Measuring the CRI of an underwater lamp as a finished product is not easy and I don't know how many manufacturers use specific equipment to measure it. My experience is that with the exception of Keldan, the lamps I tried had strong greenish or yellowish tints (Mediterranean waters). As I wrote in a previous post: My Panasonic GH4 and GH5 used in AWB (ok, I confess) with the old 5000 lumen keldan led module had a pixel perfect color rendition. With the new COB Led I have remove a slight yellow cast in post.
  3. I've seen several posts about X-Adenturer, Weefine, Kraken, BigBlue and DivePro lights added over the last few days. As always Keldan is the elephant in the room First of all: pointing out that they are Chinese doesn't mean anything per se. Today 90% of our equipment is made in China. An iPhone is made in China. In our context, Nauticam is a Chinese company (I won't go into Hong Kong's terrible issues with Mainland China). As always the devil is in the details. Our equipment goes in salt water and given the cost, in the long run needs maintenance. So in addition to finding a product with great features, it is important to find a company that will support their products over the years and at a reasonable cost and time. As someone pointed out, sending a lamp to China for service from the U.S. / Europe has costs and times unrealistic. So it would be preferable to find a company with dealers who are also able to provide technical assistance and follow their customers. Nauticam has a worldwide network of dealers who can solve most of the problems. You are forced to send the housing to Hong Kong only for complete service and the dealer always takes care of it. Going back to the underwater lamps mentioned above, just take a tour of their websites to realize that many of their models are eerily similar if not identical. Even USA/Canada based companies, have identical lamp models except for logo customization and a few details. Moreover a quick search on AliExpress will shows dozens more unknown brands with very similar models. Have you noticed that they all have the same type of switch? A button that controls the lamp through a sequence of presses. I agree with @ChrisRoss, IMHO this is the absolute most inconvenient way to use it underwater. In the long run I have had several problems with this type of switch. They state that the lights are guaranteed 100 meters but already around 60 meters the switch does not work well. So the question I have been asking myself for a long time is: who really makes these lamps? It seems to me that Chinese and Western companies re-brand and "remake" OEM lamps with specific names, marketing and features, etc. But in reality most of the underwater lamp lines are the same. TL;DR Anyway, I too have had a couple and still have two small snoot lights that I use for macro. Some models are unbeatable value for money but in my opinion the important thing is to choose a brand with a reliable local dealer who will provide support if there are any problems. My experience on that:
  4. Yes, I took the idea from Aquatica floats I saw on several BTM video. They weren't readily available here in Italy so I found a similar solution
  5. To be honest: I swore. I used the horizontal float arm as @TimG until I bought an external monitor Whit the external monitor I had to find a different solution (a good trimmed gear is like a sail boat: weight on the bottom!). I used two small floating arms from Flexarm in which you can remove the 1" ball. Now I can move the arms even without cutouts
  6. Sad but true. I still have it without cutouts and I still swear sometimes!
  7. Yes, without the cutout you cannot move the arm forward: the arm stem near the ball would hit the clamp.
  8. Yes, plenty of DIY solutions out there
  9. Nothing special. See my previous post: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/67010-nauticam-na-a7c-housing/&do=findComment&comment=426978
  10. If you have classic alu arms like ULCS or Nauticam you could just buy a kit like this: https://www.easydive.it/en/arms-and-accessories/floating-arms-and-items/floating-rings-kit-500-g.217.html The hole is 25mm which is enough for most commons arms. After the Stix bad experience, I bought a small pane of the same material and I cut it by myself copying the Stix design. While now I use carbon fiber arms I used them for years and they are still very handy for special rigs...
  11. I couldn't find the link right now but the foam ring is rated 50m. The Italian Nauticam dealer confirmed it. There is a 10Bar foam collar for the WWL-1 and it's rated 100m but the dealer said me that it couldn't find differences with the Nauticam. I had no problem going > 100 with Nauticam domes. You shouldn't have problems going deeper with the foam collar. Eventually it will shrink and your housing will become heavier. Years ago I didn't notice that my Stix foam was rated 40m. At 70m I felt my camera very heavy and I realized that the stix foam was all squished up like chewing gum. Once on the surface, few hours later it returned like new. Back home I sold it.
  12. Me too. Bargains first!!! Looking at the scratches on your WWL-1 I'm still more convinced that after one year of use the new Alu collar would have a completely stripped surface. The only advantage (for me) of the new collar is being 1rated 50m. I sold a couple of ports lately and one guy asked me macro photos of the dome petals to see if the black paint was perfect (on the petal)... P.S. I'm very careful and finicky with my gear but I do > 100 technical dives per year... This thread is hijacked. Maybe a mod would create a branch on WWL-1 WWL-1B characteristics?
  13. Good question! When I saw it, I thought, "This will get scratched just by laying it on the boat. Especially for me who only uses inflatables boats."
  14. Thank you @adamhanlon it's a shame that the foam collar it's rated 50m only. What do you mean "a pain with lighting"? Thanks
  15. Not to hijack this thread... I saw the new WW-1B with the Alu buoyancy collar. It's so huge that I think after few dives it will be completely scratched. Any feedback? Thanks
  16. Yes, ATM I haven't my camera here. As far I remember the green dot appear only when the focus is acquired and you keep pressing the button. This is the way people doing macro use it because this conf. works in manual focus too: - You set the camera in MF. - You get the basic focus via AF - You nail the desired focus via the port focus knob. For WA shots the other method was my preferred one since GH2 before having an ext monitor. Bye and compliments for your videos!
  17. Officially this problem does not exist for WP. P.S. The only way to use AF-Lock with an external monitor is configuring it like on macro work: AF-Lock: AF-ON. But you are forced to keep pressing the AF-Lock button until focus is acquired. All other AF-LOCK configuration are broken once you plug an external monitor (I tried even with my PC monìtor). A subtle but nasty bug never solved by Panasonic.
  18. No idea about the weight. A little bit more than a classic one. It's made of Delrin. No idea on GP bugs either
  19. Hi Massimo. Nice project really. You have amazing footage but really too long without a voiceover for my taste. Which lenses did you use to film them undisturbed? I saw a weird effect on the transition at 2'. There are other later on. I don't think it's an intentional transition effect Bye
  20. Ah ok, I did not get you. Regarding R5 RAW video format I did not find too much info except Canon that says shoot first, wb after Maybe you could ask on EOSHD forum. There are several video users with R5. Personal-view is nearly dead.
  21. No R5 here nor RAW camera but this video answers exactly your question. It worths a look
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